Author Archives: Tracy

An Examined Life: I join the Examiner.com as NY Wine Shopping Examiner

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This week I began writing a column for Examiner.com as their NY Wine Shopping Examiner.

I am excited about the opportunity to combine my love of shopping with my passion for wine. While my sister , who works in the fashion industy has a closet full of clothes, I have a closet full of wines and you can imagine how they got there. I often feel like a kid in a candy store when I go to a wine shop, which is why I previously did most of my wine shopping online. However, as part of my investigative reporting, I will be venturing out of the house more and seeking out wine and spirit shops around New York.

In addition to profiling local wine shops, I will also cover wine shop events including in-store pours, classes and sales. If it has to do with wine and retail, it’s my beat. Won’t you join me on this journey?

Grand Cru Grapevine: A River Runs Through It (March 2009)

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With the excessively snow-filled season, I think most of us are ready for winter to be over. Accordingly, March’s arrival and its hints at Spring, which is yet to come, is most welcome. However, despite the bad weather, February found Grand Cru Classes keeping busy with media appearances and teaching opportunities.

In concert with Valentine’s Day, Tracy “appeared” on Big Blend magazine’s Champagne Sundays radio show in early February to talk about Sex, Wine & Chocolate. If you missed this broadcast, you can hear the interview online. She will be penning a new column for Big Blend magazine – Words of Winedom – under the title of Grand Cru Guru and will be periodically featured on their radio shows. Her next “appearance” will be April 27 at 3:30 PM EST on Eat, Drink & Be Merry on the topic of wines to accompany burgers & BBQ.

Also, while not wine related, both Tracy and Jared taped a segment for the Tyra Banks Show, which should air later this month.

Of course, live appearances included our Long Island wines class at City Winery, held on February 26. We are grateful to: Comtesse de Therese, Macari Vineyards, Martha Clara Vineyards, Peconic Bay Winery, Waters Crest and Wölffer Estate for their generosity and support in making this event a success!

Looking ahead, Sex, Wine & Chocolate returns to New York on March 19. Women only are invited to please join us at 7:00 PM for an evening of sensuality and decadence. Please see our website to sign up or see more details.

In addition, Tracy’s Great Grapes! series at New York University’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies begins March 24 at 6:30. As a reminder, registration is through NYU only.

And, for your drinking pleasure at home, this month we turn our attention to the wine regions scattered along the Loire River, which should delight your palate as well as your pocketbook.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick

COO: Cork Opening Officer

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

The Loire River is the longest navigable river in France, covering a distance of 629 miles and stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the center of France before heading south. Here, in the land of castles and Kings, French royalty would spend their summers in the countryside away from the hustle and bustle of Parisian city life, a precursor to the Hamptons summer season. From West to East, there are four wine areas within the greater Loire Valley region: Nantais, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine and Central Vineyards. With the vast distance covered, a diversity of climates, grapes and wines exist, making the river among the only threads that tie this large wine region together. However, despite their differences, most of these wines are quite food friendly and offer great value.

At the western coast, along the Atlantic Ocean, visitors find themselves in Nantes, where the Melon de Bourgogne grape is produced into Muscadet, a wine with dry, crisp acidity and citrus and mineral notes. The best wines hail from Sevre-et-Maine and are labeled as such. In addition, wines labeled “sur lie” are those which have sat on the lees (spent yeast cells) for at least six months, which imparts a yeastiness, and are generally richer and fuller-bodied. Muscadets pair beautifully with the shellfish which abound in the port, especially oysters and mussels.

Moving inland and east, the climate changes as do the grape varieties. In Anjou-Saumur, we find Chenin Blanc, which has versatility and then some, with the ability to produce outstanding wines in nearly all styles – dry, sweet, still, sparkling, youthful and aged. Dry whites include Savennieres (which is particularly age worthy) while Coteaux du Layon, Quarts de Chaume and Bonnezeaux are the product of grapes, which have been affected by noble rot, creating unctuous dessert wines. Sparkling wines from this area are made in both fully sparkling and petillant (1/2 pressure) styles. A profusion of rosés abound ranging from dry (Rosé de Loire) and slightly sweet (Cabernet d’Anjou and Cabernet de Saumur) to sweet (Rosé d’Anjou). In addition, some Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Gamay are grown here to produce dry, fruity light-bodied reds found under the appellations of AC Anjou, AC Saumur and AC Saumur-Champigny.

Further inland, Touraine sports a continental climate, with more extreme temperature variations from winter to summer. This is the largest area within the Loire, with a wide variety of wines produced. White wines range from the dry Sauvignon de Touraine and AC Touraine, both made from Sauvignon Blanc, to AC Vouvray, produced from 100% Chenin Blanc. As with the Chenin Blanc in Anjou-Saumur, Vouvrays may be dry, medium-sweet or sweet, and may be still or sparkling. The wine style may be designated on the label, i.e. sec (dry) or moelleux(sweet). High quality red wines, made from Cabernet Franc, tend to exhibit herbaceous and raspberry notes in AC Chinon, with similar, but fuller-bodied wines coming from AC Bourgeuil and AC St-Nicholas-de-Bourgeuil. Red wines labeled as AC Touraine are a blend of Gamay and Cabernet Franc.

At the furthest point east, the Central Vineyards serve as the heartland of Sauvignon Blanc, producing wines, which are more mineral and less fruit-forward than their New Zealand brethren, primarily due to the complex soils found here. Key appellations include: AC Sancerre, AC Pouilly Fume, AC Menetou-Salon, AC Quincy and AC Reuilly. With its reputation for high quality wines, Sancerre can become a little pricey, but these latter appellations are less well-known and are thus, generally less expensive. Produced in smaller quantities, red Sancerre is made from Pinot Noir, which makes sense given the region’s close proximity to Burgundy.

Tasting Notes

Bouvet Rosé Excellence Brut NV, Loire Valley, France, $13.00
This sparkling wine has a beautiful pale salmon color. Medium aromas of cotton candy, yeasty/leesy notes, floral/blossom and under-ripe strawberries. Dry with medium acidity and medium mousse, it has flavors of ripe strawberry, yeast and watermelon Jolly Rancher, along with its long length. 

Domaine Les Hautes Noëlles, Les Grange Muscadet sur lie, 2005, Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu, France, $10.00
A youthful wine with leesy aromas and notes of apple, citrus, it has medium+ acidity and medium body. The palate includes flavors of lime, yeast and minerality. 

Vincent Raimbault, Vouvray Sec 2004, Vouvray, France, $15.00
On the nose, the youthful aromas of apples, almond and lanolin linger, giving way to flavors of almond, apple and honey and crisp acidity on the palate.

Vincent Gaudry, Sancerre, Melodie de Vielles Vignes 2006 Sancerre, France $22.00
Produced from 50-year old vines, this wine has pronounced aromas of minerality, citrus and grapefruit. The medium+ acidity is joined by flavors of citrus and apple which persist on the palate, followed by a hint of stone in the finish.

Joguet Chinon Cuvee Terroir 2005 Touraine, France $18.00
The nose shows limited fruit notes of berries, oak and vanilla. In the mouth, it is dry, with ripe berry fruit, medium acidity, medium+ tannins, and herbal and woody notes in the finish.

Chateau de Fesle Bonnezeaux 2003, Anjou-Saumur, France, $63.00
This dessert wine provides developing aromas of apricot, orange peel, honey, floral and spice. It is medium sweet on the palate with medium+ acidity and pronounced flavors of apricot, honey, spice coupled by a nutty note underneath its long length.

Dining at Home

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With the recent downturn in the economy, dining out seems like an unnecessary splurge for most evenings. Additionally, with a cellar full of wonderful wines, dining at home is the perfect excuse to invite over some friends and break open a great bottle of wine. Happily, we have had the good fortune of serving as both hosts and guests in this manner.

A Monday night in February found us at a dear friend’s home where the goal of the evening was to enjoy some wines from her cellar. The celebration began with a glass of Mumm Brut Cordon Rouge, paired with cheese and crackers and shrimp cocktail. The salad course was served with a Rochioli Chardonnay 2006 (Russian River Valley, CA), which displayed beautiful elegance despite its full body.  A trip to Napa in 1998 included a stop at Opus One, with both Opus One and Overture (Opus One’s second wine) heading home with her as souvenirs. Based on our recommendation that the Opus One 1997 would likely continue to age, she opened the (non-vintage) Overture, which was a perfect foil for the filet and mushroom dish she had prepared. Our own contribution to the evening was a Forster Kirchenstuck Riesling Auslese 1994, which was unfortunately flawed, likely due to poor storage conditions prior to our own purchase at a silent auction. Instead, the hostess opened a Hermann J. Wiemer Johannisberg Riesling Late Harvest 2001 from the Finger Lakes to pair with dessert (fruit pie) and the Trentadue Chocolate Amore from California, lest anyone still be in need of any wine. All in all, it was a terrific evening of good food, good wine and great friends!

My Life in Wine PR: We interrupt this wine event for Tyra Banks

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Back in February, I was working on a special wine luncheon featuring two winemakers from Napa Valley held at Porterhouse in the Time Warner Center. I was looking forward to the event, but as it turned out, I was unable to attend afterall.

I arrived at Porterhouse early that morning to set up, but as I had to leave prior to the event start time, I asked a friend to fill in for me. As the guests began to file in, I headed out to the town car waiting downstairs. My husband had already been picked up at our home and as I joined him in the car, we sped off for our adventure.

We arrived at the studio and were whisked upstairs to a green room, one of many, to get settled. My sister arrived shortly thereafter. Then, we began a long wait, punctuated by frequent visits from the various producers and assistant producers who came to prep us for our television appearance. Finally, I was sent to hair and makeup, which was a lot of fun, as I excel in neither of these talents. Next, I was rushed to the stage to take my seat next to Tyra.

Our brief segment went by in a flash and all too soon, they were calling cars to take us home. Rather than end the day on a rather anticlimatic note, we chose to return to the Time Warner Center, where our friend had just finished up with the winemakers’ luncheon. We headed her off at the pass and enjoyed a light, but lovely, late lunch at landmarc, where we shared half-bottles of the Caymus Conundrum and a Seghesio Zinfandel.

We had been advised that our show would air in March, but each week we diligently checked Tyra’s website to no avail. Just when we were beginning to think that the show would never air, they called to give us the good news… we would appear on May 27. You can catch our appearance online.

Grand Cru Grapevine: I Left My Heart in San Francisco (February 2009)

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Baby it’s cold outside! It’s the perfect time to stay indoors and open some wonderful wines, but eventually you may get stir crazy, so we have plenty of places for you to come hang out with us.

On February 26, Grand Cru Classes will present Long Island wines: From Potato Farms to Parker Points at the newly opened City Winery in Manhattan. We are very excited to partner with Michael Dorf on his project and look forward to a great event. Please register at City Winery online.

Two days later, Grand Cru Classes will import its Sex, Wine & Chocolate event to Washington, D.C. We’ll be at the beautifully-appointed Co Co Sala Chocolate Lounge, along with sexuality educator, Judith Steinhart, sipping wine, savoring chocolate and soaking up knowledge. We invite women-only to our noon session on Saturday, February 28, with a special session for couples-only presented at 3:00 PM. If you have friends, family or colleagues in the D.C. area, be sure and let them know we are on our way. And, save the date for the New York return on March 19, 2009. Details for this event are posted on our website.

Looking ahead, Tracy will reprise her Great Grapes! series through New York University’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies. The non-credit course will be offered on four consecutive Tuesdays, beginning March 24 at 6:30 and will feature Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir. Registration is through NYU only.

While we are waiting for Spring, our hearts and minds are back in California wine country, namely the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. With the restrictions on transporting liquids on planes, we no longer take wines home with us from our travels. Instead, we leave with heavy hearts as we bid goodbye to these wonderful wine regions, but know we will be back.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE

CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick

COO: Cork Opening Officer

I LEFT MY HEART IN SAN FRANCISCO

Napa Fog The popular song, “I Left My Heart in San Francisco,” made famous by Tony Bennett, is certainly apropos in many regards this month. As singer of the song, Tony longed to be back home, foreswearing both Paris and New York for his love that “…waits there in San Francisco.” Such passionate love, whether for a grand city or a lover, is certainly in keeping with the arrival of Valentine’s Day this month.

But beyond such love, Tony’s devotional also unwittingly mentions so many of the important aspects that make the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, which lie north of San Francisco, such great wine growing regions. His, “…city by the bay…” brings cool air, where “[t]he morning fog may chill the air…above the blue and windy sea…” and its “…golden sun will shine…” Truly, it is the climate, shaped so dramatically by the mountains, water and fog, that positively impacts the quality of the grapes.

Situated beneath the mountains, the Napa Valley is bounded on both sides with the Mayacamas range to the West and the Vaca range to the East. Moreover, the Napa Valley sits to the west of the hot and dry climate of the San Joaquin Valley (aka Central Valley), where much of California’s bulk wine is produced. In the early morning, the high heat from the Central Valley draws the cool air and moisture from the Pacific Ocean into the San Francisco Bay and then up the Napa Valley, cooling the area as it rolls in. This marine influence has differing results as one works their way up the 30-mile long valley, finding a difference of as much as 1oF/mile, with the southern end experiencing lower temperatures and increased rainfall when compared to the northern end, up near Calistoga. By noon, the fog has burned off and the valley is warm, with plenty of sunshine to fully ripen the grapes each year.

The southern end, known as the appellation of Carneros, spans both Napa and Sonoma and maintains the coolest climate of the region. Here, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay truly shine. Further up in Napa, we find Cabernet Sauvignon and, again Chardonnay, but generally produced in a different style. Whereas the Carneros Chardonnays are elegant and restrained, the wines from upper Napa are fuller-bodied and richer in character due to the warmer climate. Other varietals also are grown in Napa including Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. High above the valley floor, the mountain appellations lie above the fog, with grapes receiving more sunlight and a warmer overnight temperature. As a result, these are wines with a darkness and intensity to them balanced with good acidity and tannins that are well polished. The most produced wine in these areas tends to be Cabernet Sauvignon and similarly, Bordeaux-style blends, in which Cabernet Sauvignon plays a significant role.

The larger, Sonoma Valley is a region of polyculture, not just viticulture, growing a wide range of produce and playing host to numerous farms. The areas closer to the coastline are tempered by the marine air, while areas further inland maintain higher temperatures. Consequently, some sub-regions are particularly well-suited for given grape varieties. More specifically, the Alexander Valley is vaunted for its Cabernet Sauvignons, while Rockpile is prized for Zinfandel. The Russian River Valley is another area known for cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, while the warmer and drier Dry Creek Valley is home to Rhone varietals (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre) and Zinfandel.

Tasting Notes

Dutton-Goldfield, Shop Block Pinot Blanc 2007, Green Valley, CA, $25.00
Celebrating its 10th anniversary in 2008, Dutton-Goldfield is the partnership of vineyard owner/manager, Steve Dutton, and winemaker, Dan Goldfield, in producing small lot, cool climate wines in the Russian River Valley. As a sub-AVA, the Green Valley is hailed as, “the coolest, foggiest region of the Russian River Valley.” Their Pinot Blanc has citrus, floral and stone aromas, with a dry, medium-bodied palate. Bright fruit flavors of citrus and apple coexist with muted notes of minerality.

Frank Family Vineyards, Chardonnay 2006, Napa Valley, CA, $32.50
This is a beautifully-made Chardonnay with aromas of apple and floral notes. Medium-bodied on the palate, it has flavors of apple and white flower and only a limited perception of integrated oak.

Robert Mondavi Winery, Fume Blanc Reserve 2006, To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville, CA, $45.00
From the famed To Kalon vineyard, this 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Semillon blend has youthful aromas of grapefruit, hay and wet stone, opening up to peach. On the palate, it is dry with medium+ acidity, medium body, white grapefruit, stone and peach notes, finishing with a touch of yeast in the long length. 

Coturri, Jewell Vineyard, Pinot Noir 2005, Sonoma Mountain, CA, $30.00
While the wines aren’t labeled as such, Coturri is a biodynamic producer, believing that organic production isn’t the stuff of marketing, but rather, it’s the only way to make wine. This elegant Pinot hails from 60-year old vines and has raspberry and herbal aromas. Dry, with lively acidity, medium body and medium tannins, its flavors of raspberry and black cherry, coupled with pleasant herbaceousness, are very concentrated throughout the palate. 

Seghesio, Zinfandel 2005, Rockpile, CA $36.00
Known for its Zinfandels, Seghesio produces a range from different appellations and vineyards. The Rockpile rendition is spicy and juicy, with medium body, medium acidity, ripe tannins and rich flavors of spice, blueberry and blackberry.

CADE Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Howell Mountain, CA, $60.00
Made in small quantities (only 400 cases), this wine comes from 9 year old vines grown at a 2,000 foot elevation, which is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Merlot to soften the wine. Aromas include menthol, along with some blackberry fruit in the background and oak. The dry palate displays medium acidity, high tannins and flavors of blackberry, oak and coffee.

NB: The wines selected for this month’s newsletter carry higher average prices than our usual selections, but we believe that these wines deliver excellent quality, while still providing good value. There are significant numbers of lower-priced California wines, most of which are commercially-made, cheap and cheerful wines with grapes sourced from throughout the state. With the high cost of land values in Napa and Sonoma, it is costlier to make great, artisanal wines, as these represent. Yet, with people choosing to stay in more frequently, as opposed to dining out, these wine costs provide you with the ability to trade up, while still keeping expenses reasonable.

My Life in Wine PR: A Delicious Day

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Last week, we held a press event to launch the Geyser Peak Block Collection, one of the wines that the company for whom I am working represents. Prior to the event, in my role as a PR Assistant, I had sent out the invitations, managed the guest list, coordinated wine shipments, drafted a press release and put together over 100 press kits.

Held at the fabulous Bouley Test Kitchen, attendees had the opportunity to hear from both the winemaker, Mick Schroeter, and David Bouley himself. The three wines in the Block Collection were paired with three dishes each, which represented the Bouley restaurant cuisines — French, Mediterranean and Asian. It was a lovely event and, after I had checked everyone in, given them a press kit and their nametag, I was able to take a seat and join in the tasting, albeit it a bit late.

The first pairing was with the Geyser Peak Block Collection River Ranches Sauvignon Blanc 2008. This is obviously the new vintage; so new in fact that we weren’t sure the winemaker was going to be happy with the final blend, bottling it only the week before the event.

With intense aromas of citrus, melon and lemon pith, the medium-bodied, dry wine provided lemon, pith and mineral on the palate, with long length. Joining this wine were the following three plates: porcini flan, dungeness crab with black truffle dashi; oil poached shrimp and diver scallops in an ocean herbal broth; and a kumamoto oyster with a plum wine jelly. Each one was equisite on its own and even more so with the wine.

Next up was the Water Bend Chardonnay 2007. I had originally thought that “water bend” referred to the block or vineyard from which the grapes had come, but rather, it is a special barrel process. During the construction process, the wood is soaked and then heated over a hotter fire than a traditional barrel process, which provides greater carmelization of the natural wood sugars. Yet, despite this approach, the wine itself was not overly oaked in aromas or flavors. Instead, aromas of apple, blossom, mineral, slight citrus and a hint of yeast, which yielded to a creamy and rich wine with peach, citrus and yeast flavors lingering on the palate. To complement the wine, Chef Bouley and his team prepared black sea bass in a vanilla infused saffron sauce; maine day boat lobster with celery root, peas, blood orange and pomegranate; and line-caught halibut with popped rice.

I did not get to taste the final wine, the Walking Tree Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, given my late arrival, but I will taste it on my own in the next few weeks. The Walking Tree vineyard is so named for an oak tree that gently creeped down the steep hillside of the 12 acre vineyard over a period of 2.5 years, until it finally reached the bottom and eventually met its demise. Trees aside, Mick described the wine as being a classic Alexander Valley Cabernet showing bright and youthful blackberry fruit, dark chocolate, pepper and spice. He further added that it was rich and voluptuous with fine-grained tannins and juiciness. It was served with organic Colorado rack of lamb with a rosemary crust and zucchini-mint puree; Long Island duckling with a Balinese pepper crust, white truffle honey and a verjus, ginger dressing; and rack of veal with heart of palm and Japanese egg.

An additional two wines were poured from the Geyser Peak Reserve series — the Alexandre Meritage 2004 and Cabernet Sauvignon 2004. The Bordeaux blend provided aromas of blackberry, herbal notes and pepper, which continued on the palate as bright, lush fruit with long length. The Reserve Cab was meaty with black raspberry, chocolate and mint/euclyptus notes. These wines were served with a cheese course, which consisted of cow cheeses, which match better with reds, while goat cheeses pair well with white wines. Also on the cheese plate was a d’Agen prune, which I really enjoyed even though I was convinced that I didn’t like prunes. As David explained, these special prunes originate in the Dordogne region in France and are soaked in Armagnac, with the prunes stuffed with pureed prune.

As if that wasn’t enough, an onslaught of desserts, petit fours and other delectables followed. Moreover, guests were sent home with a tea cake and a bottle of the Walking Tree Cabernet Sauvignon. An embarrassment of riches to say the least.

The entire afternoon appeared to be well appreciated by the attendees. One guest went so far to say that if he were to die on his way home, he should die happy as it was the best meal he had ever eaten. He further stated that it was better than sex. All in all, it was a great event and I enjoyed the opportunity to not only attend, but also to participate in some of the preparations.

California Here I Come

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With the holiday season in the rearview mirror, we bid goodbye to Santa Claus and say hello to another Santa, Santa Barbara. We’ll be visiting this wine region in April with my family to celebrate my father’s birthday. In deference to him, I won’t reveal his age, but it is a milemarker, hence this big family vacation.

Like much of California, winemaking in Santa Barbara began during the Missionary period and then stagnated during Prohibition. While its modern period of viticulture began in the 1960s, it certainly came upon the world scene with the launch of the movie Sideways. During my last visit to the region, I was much too young to drink (~12), so I have no reference point, but I am looking forward to getting to know some of these wineries first hand.

Also part of the area is the town of Solvang, which was recently featured in an episode of the Girls Next Door, and a place I do recall from that childhood visit long ago. Solvang is an authentic Danish village that looks like you stepped out of reality into a Grimm’s Fairy Tale. Fortunately, the big, bad wolf is no where to be found.

I’ve already visited the  Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Association and requested (and have already received) their touring map, which will help us plan our travels. My parents have taken care of the accommodations (we are renting a house), plane tickets have been purchased and we’ve booked a birthday dinner at bouchon, which has a terrific list of local wines, 40 of them available by the glass. The only thing left to do is to select which wineries to visit.

We had the pleasure of meeting Steve Clifton of Clifton Brewer and Palmina at the Long Island symposium back in August, who hails from this region, so we hope to visit with him or at least visit the tasting room to enjoy some of the wines he didn’t bring east with him.

Unlike my previous visits to wine regions, where it is generally just my husband and myself, we will be  traveling as a group of six. The consequences are that it will be more challenging to agree upon which wineries to visit and I think we may need to make reservations in advance given the size of our group.

We arrive in Santa Barbara on April 18, which coincidently coincides with the annual Vintners’ Festival, held at River Park in Lompac. The main festival doesn’t start until 1:00 PM on Saturday and we are scheduled to arrive at 9:30 AM, so it should be doable. The only issue will be whether we can stay awake since we have a 6:00 AM flight from NYC.

Other festivities are held at the various wineries throughout the weekend. Tickets for the main festival are $75.00/person and a “Vintners’ Visa” which permits its holder to have the tasting fees waived at up to 12 wineries over the four-day period, is $35.00/person. They offer a designated driver Vintners’ Visa at $25.00/person, which is a bit confusing. While I laud their efforts in advocating responsible drinking and abstention from drinking and driving, I’m not sure why someone has to pay not to drink. 🙂 Likely they provide the driver with some sort of nice recognition, but nothing is specifically stated on the website other than price.

Santa Barbara is highly regarded for its Pinot Noir wines, but certainly isn’t exclusive to this grape. Yet the cool climate, thanks to the maritime influence of the Pacific, truly creates beautiful wines from this variety. Not surprisingly, Chardonnay also does remarkably well here. Inland, where the climate is warmer, one will find some Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. And, the aforementioned Palmina specializes in Italian varietals.

Within Santa Barbara County are three AVAs, which sound like a line-up of Christopher Columbus’ ships: Santa Ynez Valley, Sta Rita Hills and the Santa Maria Valley. A fourth area, , Los Alamos Valley, is not an official appellation, but it is a well-demarcated area within the region.

The Vintner’s Association has outlined six different wine tasting routes, but I don’t think we’ll hit them all in sequence. I have much more research to do in deciding where I want to go and then, of course, run it by the committee. Regardless of where we go, I am sure we will taste lots of wonderful wines and I am very much looking forward to the trip.

Lovely Wines from Languedoc-Roussillon

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france-adj019

Collioure, France

On a wet, blustery autumn day, I packed up my things and headed off to the South of France. Well, I headed out to a tasting of wines from Southern France located across town, but, for a few hours I was transported to the sun and warmth of Languedoc.

Held at Fig & Olive, the Sud de France tasting was organized by Teuwen One Image on behalf of client La Maison de la Region Languedoc-Rousillon. Having actually been in the Languedoc some years ago, I was familiar with the region and very much looked forward to the tasting.

Spanning along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea, the region is located in the Southwest of France, stretching from the Spanish border to just West of the Rhone Valley. Much of the climate is tempered by the Mistral. This wind is so strong that driving along the highway during our visit, we could feel the car shake. It is a large, geographic area and includes ~30 different appellations, along with a vast number of Vin de Pays and simple table wines. Previously, this was a region known for quantity and not quality, but things have changed significantly over the past several years.

While most of the international grapes are grown here, the region is primarily known for red grapes Syrah, Carignan, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Grenache, frequently blended together. Among the white varieties are Viognier, Picpoul Blanc and Roussanne.  Dry and fruity roses are also produced as are fortified dessert wines. The majority of these wines are well priced, offering great value under $20.00 and many under $15.00. The most expensive wine represented at the tasting retails for $48.00, but this truly was the exception rather than the rule.

I did not get to taste all of the wines at the event, but did taste through seven of the ten collections presented, which was simply a matter of navigating the crowd, not an indictment on the producers I missed. As always in these walk-around tastings, my notes are limited in their detail, but a few did stand out, which I starred in my book.

I particularly liked the Chateau Les Ollieux wines from Frank Johnson Selections. The estate had been family owned for many generations, but due to French inheritance laws and their resulting tax bills, it had to be sold. Fortunately, a nearby neighbor was the purchaser, keeping the wines under a similar regimen. From the Corbieres AOC, the two wines available for tasting were the Rouge Cuvee Tradition 2005, a blend of 33% Syrah, 31% Grenache, 31% Carignan and 5% Mourvedre and its reverse counterpart, the Rouge Cuvee Francoise Cartier 2001 (40% Mourvedre, 30% Carignan, 15% Grenache and 15% Syrah). The Tradition had medium+ tannins with red fruits and meaty notes, while the Francoise Cartier tended toward black fruits and leather.

I also liked many of the wines from Henny & Francois Selections, which focuses on natural and organic wines. The Chemin de Bassac Vin de Pays de Cotes de Thongue “Isa Blanc” 2007 is a blend of 33% Viognier and 67% Roussanne with a very floral nose. On the palate, the wine has good acidity with citrus and floral notes. As a certified organic producer, no man-made chemicals are used in the production of its grapes.

From Pasternak, the Chateau d’Aussieres Vin de Pays d’Oc Aussiere Rouge 2006 (40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Merlot) was a nice example of integrating indigenous grapes with higher profile grapes. It showed bright red fruit with notes of underbrush, providing some complexity in the wine.

Overall, these are wines that are very accessible, especially given the economic climate and should be more easily available on retail shelfs and on restaurant lists. If you are not familiar with the wines of this region, it’s time to give them a try.

Cotes de Roussillon, France

Cotes de Roussillon, France

Grand Cru Grapevine: It’s All Greek to Me (January 2009)

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Welcome to 2009! A new year always heralds the start of something big and for Grand Cru Classes, 2009 is no exception. This month we launch our recently revamped website and newsletter. Our website URL remains the same (www.GrandCruClasses.com), but the new site is much improved and finally completes our rebrand to the beautiful logo designed by May Matta-Aliah of Red Dot Solutions. 

As we bid goodbye to 2008, we began our partnership with Judith Steinhart and introduced our Sex, Wine & Chocolate event, which was a huge success for this first effort. We welcomed 20 participants to the inaugural presentation and were delighted to feature Alexander Valley Vineyards’ aptly named Temptation Zin (Zinfandel); Banfi Vintners’ beautifully-hued sparkler, Rosa Regale; and Godiva Chocolatier’s decadent chocolates and truffles (with special thank yous to Andrew Feigelman, Sharon McCarthy and Traci Schiffer, respectively, for their gracious support of this event). No specific plans have as yet been made, but we do plan to reprise this event in the future and have even received an inquiry to bring the event to Washington, D.C. We also thank the attendees for their candid and thoughtful feedback, which will certainly be useful as we improve future presentations of this fun and festive event. There’s a synopsis of the event on Tracy’s blog. 

Other year-end festivities included the comedy debut of our own Tracy Ellen Kamens, who killed (in comedy, that’s a good thing) at her graduation show and was invited to participate in a New Talent Showcase at Comix on Tuesday, February 3 at 7:00 PM. (Call 212-524-2500 and mention Tracy’s name or book online.) 

Tracy’s other accomplishments include her induction into the Wine Media Guild and receipt of the Greek Wine Ambassador title and certification from Wines of Greece. In this vein, we turn this month’s attention to just that…wines from Greece. 

Drink wisely and well, 

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer 

IT’S ALL GREEK TO ME
Last May, I had the wonderful opportunity to attend a seminar hosted by Wines from Greece. The illustrious panel included Steven Olsen (aka Wine Geek), Doug Frost, MW, MS (author and consultant); Roger Daghorn (sommelier from Chanterelle restaurant); Tara Thomas (journalist and author); Michael Weiss (Director of Wine Studies at the Culinary Institute of America) and Sophia Perpera (oenologist and founder, All About Greek Wine). 

While Greek wines haven’t made big headlines in recent years, Greece has a long vinous history dating back 4,000 years and is actually considered to be the birthplace of food and wine as a culture. Among its more well-known wine exports is Retsina, which owes its unique flavor to its infusion with pine resin. While not most people’s preference, traditionally, this process actually served a purpose, acting as a preservative and preventing oxidation long before the advent of refrigeration and other modern technology. Other additives, such as opiates, were also common in ancient Greece, which gave rise to those bacchanalian parties. As further evidence of its forward thinking, Greece also pioneered the concept of using specific vessels for specific wines long before Riedel crafted his first crystal stemware. Moreover, antique amphorae also sported the first wine labels, with seals indicating the vintner, vintage, etc 

But, it wasn’t until more modern history that Greece has once again become a world class producer of wine. Previously, wines were high in alcohol, low in acidity and prone to oxidation due in part to poor winemaking, high yields and over-oaking. Conversely, today, Greek wines are clean and fresh, with balanced structure and acidity and are quite food friendly. Combining Old World tradition with New World technology, many producers are using indigenous grapes grown at low yields and applying new technologies such as refrigeration to produce high quality wines. 

Geographically, Greece resembles an outstretched hand, reaching into the water. Located within the Mediterranean Sea, Greece is a country primarily made up of volcanic islands and qualifying as the third most mountainous country in Europe. Not surprisingly, this is a country whose vineyards are made up of small plots of land with ancient soils, in isolated areas and at high elevations (among the highest in the world, second only to Argentina). Given its maritime location, it has a Mediterranean climate, with a heavy influence from the sea. In fact, low rainfall plagues most of Greece, with moisture coming from fog instead. 

Home to over 300 indigenous grapes that have been catalogued, Greece provides great diversity and originality in its wines. Yes, you can find the usual suspects – Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – but more importantly, and more significantly, are grapes such as Roditis, Assyrtiko, Agiorghitiko and Xinomavro. 

Amidst the Aegean Islands, Santorini seems like an unlikely place for wine production. Here, soils are a mix of volcanic and minced rock while the climate is extremely dry and windy, so much so that vines must be trained low to the ground in a circular pattern, resembling a woven basket. Yet despite this inhospitable climate, Assyrtiko thrives, producing wines with vibrant acidity and minerality that develop a beautiful richness over time. Among other whites, Athiri grapes are grown in Rhodes and Santorini, providing wines with low acidity, good weight and high aromatics. Roditis is the grape best known for the wines from Patras, which are elegant, light white wines, displaying notes of citrus flavors. 

Red grape star Agiorgitiko provides dark color and soft tannins and results in wines with a roundness and balance similar to Pinot Noir. Found in Nemea (the largest red wine appellation in Greece), on the Peleponnese, these wines can be aged and have nice acidity and good aromatics. Another well-respected red variety is Xinomavro, which loosely translates as sour black. This grape is grown in Naoussa within the region of Macedonia, and is responsible in part for the blend in Rapsani on Mount Olympus. 

Greece is also known for its dessert wines. Mavrodaphne grapes are generally used to produce sweet, fortified wines that are similar in style to ruby Ports. Other sweet Greek wines include Muscats of Samos as well as those from Rion and Patras, with notes of apricot, honey, orange peel and spice. 

The wine renaissance taking place in modern Greece is long overdue, but well worth the wait. And, just in time, too, as Greek food has become an important trend in Metropolitan restaurants. In fact, according to Olsen, New York Magazine declared that “octopus is the new calamari.” But, regardless of what you order, Greek wines are food friendly wines that can pair easily with a wealth of cuisines. And, with your newly acquired knowledge, reviewing a list of Greek wines should no longer have you saying, “It’s all Greek to me.” 

Tasting Notes

 

 

Emery, Athiri, VDQS Rhodes, 2007, Rhodes, Greece, $14.00
A whitewine with intense aromatics of citrus, peach and slight mineral notes, the palate is dry with medium acidity and flavors of citrus, an herbal undercurrent and some floral notes.  

Tselepos, Mantinia VDQS, 2007, Mantinia/Peloponnese, Greece, $17.00
From the Moschofilero grape, floral, spice, peach and pear notes are immediately evident in this highly aromatic wine. On the palate, it has high acidity and long length, which harmonize with the wine’s complex flavors of strawberry, nectarine, jasmine and ginger, making it extremely versatile for food matching.  

Sigalas, Santorini VDQS, 2007, Santorini/Aegean Islands, Greece, $19.00
Produced from Assyrtiko grapes, this wine has herbal and citrus aromas on the nose. It is dry, with medium acidity, and good concentrated fruit flavors of peach and herbs, culminating in a long length. 

Gaia Estate, Nemea VDQS, 2005, Nemea/Peloponnese, Greece, $35.00
Aromas of black fruit, cherry, spice and wood greet the nose. This dry and well structured red wine, made from Agiorghitiko grapes, has medium acidity with a medium+ body and ripe tannins. Fruit-forward, explosive flavors of wood, blackberry, spice and oak persist on the palate.  

Boutari, Grande Reserve, Naoussa VDQS, 2001, Naoussa/Macedonia, Greece, $22.00
Produced from the Xinomavro grape, this is a very aromatic red wine, with notes of black cherry, herbal, dried fruits and tar that echo on the palate. Dry and full bodied, it has grippy, but ripe tannins with bright acidity and long length. Rich and complex with black olives, dried tomatoes and concentrated fruit, the wine is still young and could use some additional age. It would pair well with gamey meat and hard cheeses.