Everyone’s a critic

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As with a recent article in the New York Times, it seems that the media has finally woken up to the problem of the wine score game. While Robert Parker is attributed to having been the first to pioneer the use of the 100-point scale with wine, he is not to blame as the practice is certainly wide-spread.

What I do suggest is that wine afficionados take Parker and other critics in stride, the way we do with other products. When film critics rate a film, audiences read the review and make their own decisions about whether to see it. If they are familiar with a particular critic then they may have a better understanding as to whether their film preferences match or diverge with the critic’s. If Ebert & Roeper always like a certain kind of film and you’ve never been happy with their recommendations, you know to stay away next time and even possibly attend the film they pan.

If your tastes are aligned with Parker’s, then by all means follow his suggestions. But, if you aren’t sure you are in sync, why not read beyond the score? What did he find in the glass? Fresh fruit? Earth?  What are others saying about the same wine? A critic is just that, a critic. Yes, their palates are practiced from many years of tasting, but they are still human. They have their own set of preferences. Sure, keep reading the score cards, but remember that in your home, the only critic that matters is you!

Setting the Score Straight

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At the Wine Styles Symposium, reported on previously, Mary Ewing-Mulligan addressed the issue of high scoring wines and the misguided assumption that a given score alone is an indication of quality. She noted that when asking Ed to select a wine to pair well with a given meal, she never once has requested a 92 point scoring wine (or other similarly scored wine for that matter). However, it is known that many consumers go into their local wine shop, using a minimum score among, or possibly as their only, selection criteria.

In listening to Mary speak, I was reminded of a similar discussion I had in graduate school. The key difference between the two was in the product — one being wine, the other being higher education. Whether one subscribes to Parker’s Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, Decanter or any other wine publication, a numerical score will be connected with nearly every tasting note included within its pages. Not dissimilar to the rankings allocated to our institutions of higher learning as found within the annual issue of U.S. News & World Report.

Prospective students and their parents look to these scores when choosing where to pursue undergraduate and graduate study. In some cases, the decision of where to attend school for the next four years can rest on the particular ranking that a college received that year. Can the average consumer determine whether School A, ranked 11th nationally, is any better than School B, which was ranked 15th nationally, based upon those rankings? Probably no more so than he or she can judge whether a 90 point Sauvignon Blanc is of any lesser quality than a 91 point Sauvignon Blanc or a 93 point Bordeaux.

Mary and Ed’s answer to the wine problem is to categorize wines by their styles, which they define as a taste profile, which brings together a collection of characteristics. In this way, a consumer who discovers their personal preference for aromatic whites over earthy whites could be taught to identify which whites meet their preferred taste profile. Moreover, they would, we hope, feel confident to try a new wine within that category as well as feel that their preference is equally valid as someone else’s preference for some other taste profile. As a result, the consumer would be able to identify and select wines that met his/her preferences and needs.

In response to the ranking mania associated with colleges and universities, several academics have proposed new approaches to categorizing such institutions that move away from scores, which bear little correlation to student learning and student experiences. A highly-ranked college may be well regarded, but may not be suitable for all students based upon their learning styles, value preferences or other individual attributes. One such approach was developed at the University of Pennsylvania’s Institute for Research on Higher Education, culminating in the Collegiate Results Instrument (CRI). The CRI focused on the results produced by a given institution such as how its graduates measured their abilities and their value preferences. These measures could then be used by prospective students to see how a given institution’s graduates differed from its peer institutions.  In this way, a prospective student could decide which of the institutions would best meet his/her needs to develop a certain skill set or values upon graduation.

While, at the time, the CRI was adopted by Petersen’s Guides to College, I don’t believe that sales of the U.S. News’ annual college and university issue have declined as a result of its creation. Nor do I think that we will we see a shift away from wine scores anytime soon due to sales of the Wine Styles book. However, I do hope that conversations around new approaches will continue to illuminate this issue with rankings and help consumers see that there are other, more productive, ways to compare similar goods and services.

From a market perspective, given the weight that such publications carry in the respective industries, both wineries and colleges are hard pressed to ignore such rankings despite their protestations that such scores don’t really mean anything. Accordingly, until consumers trust that they can make their own, informed decisions about these selections, the rankings will continue to play an important role in which school is chosen and in which wines are purchased to toast the child’s college send-off.

Got Class & Style

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Yesterday, I attended a symposium on Understanding Regional Identity through Wine Styles. Presented through the Cornell University Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County and sponsored by several local winery and industry organizations, the program centered around Mary Ewing-Mulligan, MW and Ed McCarthy’s new book, Wine Styles.  In addition to hosting these authors, the symposium featured Collin Alevas of The Tasting Room restaurant and Jean-Luc Le Du of Le Du’s Wines.

After a brief welcome and introduction by Larry Perrine of Channing Daughters, Mary kicked off the event with a discussion on the need to approach wines through a new lens. Previously, wine has been parsed by region, grape variety and score, but none of these options lends itself well to the average consumer. If, instead, we group wines by their overall style, such as fresh, unoaked whites or spicy reds, we can empower the consumer to trust his/her palate and encourage a diversity of wine tastes. Mary and Ed’s premise and fuller conversation bring up a number of important points, which will be examined further at another time. For now, it is sufficient to note the relevance of their remarks to promoting diversity in wine styles by giving people permission to like whatever style of wine their palate prefers, removing the element of judgement or a sense of right and wrong.

The program continued with a presentation by Collin on the selection of wines for his restaurant, which exclusively offers American wine. He provided the participants with an opportunity to taste two wines — a unique CA Pinot Noir, with a cloudy appearance and interesting story as well as a WA Nebbiolo. Overall, his message was that of the need to tell stories about wines to engage consumer interest and sell wine. After a lively interaction, the group broke for lunch, during which participants had the chance to taste through wines from Channing Daughters, Raphael and those poured during the earlier tasting exercises.

Resuming in the afternoon, Jean-Luc shared his experience in the wine trade, first in his role of sommelier at Daniel restaurant and now in the context of a wine shop owner. He spoke about the difference inherent in Collin’s life — the restaurant customer is a captive audience — compared to his, whereby the retail customer can comparison shop (moreso than ever with the Internet) and his inability to be there when they open the bottle.

As a final installment to the day, Ed led a roundtable discussion of the panel, with Collin replaced by Richard Olsen-Harbich of Raphael, given his early departure. The participants were eager to ask questions of all panel members and many interesting discussions took place regarding wine styles and other wine topics. Overall, it was a very productive conference, as the wine industry came together to both explore and share many ideas about the world of wine. All in all, a definite class act.

It’s Beer, I Fear

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First it was our politics, now it is a recent Gallup poll of U.S. drinking habits. There are just too many reasons to feel less than proud to be an American these days. Wine Business Daily has reported that this year’s Gallup poll showed a decline in wine as the preferred alcoholic beverage, giving beer the winning spot at 41% to wine’s 33%.

What is America thinking? Granted, wine was only a winner for the single year of 2005 in the history of this particular poll, which has been tracked since 1939. However, I had hoped to see this as a positive trend, with wine steadily increasing over time, not just a statistical anomaly. Anyway, I suppose the good news is that there will be more wine for those of us that do prize it above all other alcoholic beverages.

But seriously, the poll does provide an interesting insight into Americans’ drinking habits. Wine sales are increasing, but they do not appear to be at the levels they could be. With the "wine lake" (surplus wine for which there is no market) as large as it is and new regions entering the global market, the ability to boost wine consumption is important. Moreover, European wine consumption is slowly declining (no more two-hour lunches), adding to the existing problem.

It begs the question as to whether more marketing is needed (I can’t recall seeing a wine commercial during the Super Bowl), more consumer education or both. It will also be interesting to see how this poll changes in time, with the Millennials (Generation Y) taking more to wine consumption than their previous generations. Only time will tell, but the opportunity does appear to exist for the savvy marketer.

Decanter’s Loss

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I sent in the following letter to the Decanter editor, but it wasn’t published in this month’s issue (although one from a fellow DWS classmate – Lisa Carley – was), so rather than have it go to waste, I’m posting it here.

If top collector Charles Klatskin isn’t buying certain 2005 Bordeaux futures on principle (Decanter.com: ‘Insane’ Bordeaux prices turn top collector away, July 12, 2006, Howard Goldberg), what hope do the rest of us ‘mere mortals’ pleading poverty have? Actually, quite a lot.

As a much more modest collector, but one not immune to the 2005 hoopla, I have sought out a few bargains and generally managed to stay close to the $500 budget I set for myself. Distilling reviews and advice from Decanter, Jancis Robinson’s website, along with Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator tasting notes and scores provided on my wine merchant’s website, I found a few gems, which seem to hold promise in both the appreciation they will find on my palate and provide on my pocketbook.

At $55.95 per bottle, my splurge was a single bottle of Domaine de Chevalier, one of the only wines I could afford from Decanter’s list of 5-star wines. More frugally, I picked up a case of Chateau Beaumont ($150.00/case) and another of Fonbel ($225.00), the latter of which, with a Parker score of 90-93, was a veritable steal at $21.95/bottle. This was rounded out with two bottles of Chateau d’Armailhac at $39.95, of which I have a bottle of the 2000.

While I don’t expect to get rich on any of these purchases, I am confident that these wines will provide great pleasure, if not the staying power of their more expensive counterparts. Of course, wealthier and less- principled collectors may have more stellar wines in their cellars. But, from my standpoint, if a rising tide lifts all boats and, by all accounts, the 2005 vintage was a heck of a tide, we should all be in good stead when it comes time to drink.

We Know Pinot

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Another session I attended at the SWE Conference last month featured several wine producers from the Dundee Hills appellation in the Willamette (rhymes with damn it!) Valley of Oregon. The Dundee Hills has the highest concentration of vineyards and wineries within the state, with approximately 2,000 acres planted.

Located on the 45th parallel, which places it similarly to Burgundy, the region benefits from a maritime climate as influenced by the Pacific Ocean, making it more temperate than Burgundy. The first plantings were made in 1966, with the first grapes harvested in 1970. The better plantings are found on hillsides, with good drainage.

As members of the panel related, many of them second generation vineyard owners and winemakers, there was a lot of collaboration among growers in the 1970s. They recalled the parties at which the grownups would discuss trellising and clones, while the children would run amok and have fun. The area arrived at a turning point in 1980 when its wines placed in a Paris competition.

Today, Dundee Hills is considered the epicenter of Oregon Pinot Noir and is highly regarded for these wines. Produced from the Pommard clone, the wines themselves have a brightness of red fruits, with nice, lively acidity and freshness; they are silk and velvet on the palate.

As this next generation guides Dundee Hills and makes wines of great repute, it is clear that they too know Pinot.

Match Point

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Regardless of the course topic, food and wine pairing is a subject that comes up frequently in my classes. It seems that many consumers feel completely in the dark when it comes to selecting a wine that will complement their food choice. I find this especially interesting since it is only relatively recent that we, as a nation, have begun turning to wine as a beverage of choice. Many of our citizens still reach for soda, juice or milk when dining and probably never give it a thought.  I can’t imagine someone considering the merits of a lemon-lime soda (white) versus a cola (red?) to pair with their meal.

But, of course, wines can truly accentuate a meal in ways that other beverages can’t. When drinking wine with food, there are changes that occur in the way that the food is perceived on the palate. Similarly, the food influences the way that the wine tastes. When chosen wisely, beautiful harmonies can result. Matches selected with less precision may provide lesser experiences, but few matches are really disastrous. At least not more so than drinking lemonade with an osso bucco or other non-wine mismatch.

So, why does food and wine pairing strike fear in the heart of the consumer (and here, the noun consumer is all the more appropriate)? I would suggest that the mystery, snobbery and structure that surrounds the world of wine places the less-knowledgeable wine lover in a defensive position. He or she has been taught that there is a right way and a wrong way. However, unlike non-wine beverages, there is no admonishment to choose the right one. Thus, anything other than wine comes naturally, while wine choices are fraught with the stress of picking the perfect wine.

Perhaps if the message that there is no one perfect wine for a given situation was sent to consumers more often, they could all relax a bit more and enjoy their wine and meal without getting a headache before the wine is even drunk.

North Star

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Among the sessions I attended at the SWE Conference was one on Rias Baixas (pronounced ree-ahss bye-shas), presented by Mary Gorman, MW candidate, and Linda Lawry, Director of the International Wine Center.  This lesser-known Spanish wine hails just north of Portugal, within the Galicia region. The region, referred to as "green Spain," is a far cry from other regions in Spain such as the extremely arid La Mancha. Photographs shared in the session depicted lush rolling hills and verdant greenery reminiscent of Mary’s native Ireland. Located along the Atlantic coast, the ocean imparts a great influence on the climate which brings lots of rain; hence the beautiful scenary.

As a consequence of the heavy reains, mildew is among the biggest problems in the vineyard. To combat this, a pergola trellis and training system is used. This approach provides aeration and circulation, while keeping the grapes off the ground and away from the precipitation. It make for a difficult harvest as pickers must stand on a crate to reach the hanging grapes. For larger vineyards holdings, the Espaldera is sometimes used, which is a local variant of the Geneva Double-Curtain. This system results in lower yields and higher quality, but is more expensive and thus, not appropriate for small plots.

The wines are made primarily from the Albarino grape, which is very aromatic and has characteristics similar to that of Riesling. This grape originated here and has been cultivated for centuries. Several other grapes are permitted, which bring their own special character to the blend. For example, Loueiro Blanco provides a laurel note, while Treixadura adds a white, floral aroma.

Winemaking primarily centers on stainless steel fermentation, preserving the freshness of these wines, although a few are experimented with oaked Albarino. Some malo-lactic fermentation is used to manage the acidity, especially in the Val do Salnes subzone, from which 70% of the wines are produced. A pre-fermentation maceration is common with the grapes held at 50oF for six to ten hours. Overall, these wines are clean with crisp acidity and a balsamic (think balsa wood, not the vinegar) character in the finish. They are meant to be drunk young and given the region’s proximity to the sea, match very well with shell fish.

If you have been enjoying Vinho Verdes from Portugal, the next time you are in your local wine store, you might consider figuratively heading north just over the border to try these rising stars.

Conference Reflections

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It is Friday morning and I’m sitting in a hotel conference center staring down eight imposing wine glasses. Despite the early hour and my jetlag, I am eager to learn about the wines in front of me. Yes, I know, for most people, drinking wine at 8:00 AM would indicate a problem, but I assure you, I am a trained professional.

As a member of the Society of Wine Educators, I have traveled to Eugene, Oregon to attend the annual conference and update my wine knowledge. Over the course of three days, I see much more of the hotel than the city itself, attending eleven educational seminars, an International Wine Tasting and the awards dinner. While a few of the seminars do not provide a tasting component, most do, averaging six to eight glasses each. One or two presenters even break the ten wine limit that had been mandated.

The session starts and the presenter regales us with stories on how the grapes in our glasses got their names. We are also provided with information on the twenty wine regions within Italy and the laws that govern the production of wine there. Her PowerPoint display is filled with breathtaking views of the various vineyards from which these wines come. Thirty minutes later, we commence with tasting. Concurrently, we are given specific details on the wines such as grape varieties, fermentation vessels and ageing length, among others.

With one’s palate at its peak in the morning, drinking this early is actually beneficial to the learning process. I pull the first glass toward me and tilt it over the white placemat to view the wine’s color and intensity. Next, I swirl the glass on the table to release its aromas and take a big sniff, carefully noting the scents I identify on my tasting sheet. I then take a sip of wine and swish it around my mouth, paying close attention to the sensations the wine produces in terms of its sweetness, acidity, structure and flavors. These, too, are noted on my sheet and then I pull a paper cup to my mouth and spit. Yes, it sounds, at best, un-ladylike and at worst, quite disgusting, but, with three more sessions, a lunch sponsored by Wines of Spain and tonight’s dinner all still ahead, I need to stay clearheaded and keep my palate sharp in order to give the eighth wine, and even the twenty-eighth wine, my full attention.

We finish tasting through all of the wines as the presenter wraps up her discussion. The last wine is a favorite of mine and though I am reluctant, this too is spat into the cup. On the way out, I pause to reconnect with a woman I met at last year’s conference and then meet up with another colleague who has attended a session on the globalization of wine. We briefly compare notes and head off to learn more. By the end of the weekend, I am exhausted, but, I hope, all the wiser.

SWE’onderful

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We are back from our trip to Eugene, Oregon where we attended the 30th annual conference of the Society of Wine Educators (SWE). We were unable to take the time to participate in any of the pre-conference visits to the local wineries, so we will have to make another trip. But, with my parents moving to Ashland, OR in the next few days, I’m sure that won’t be a problem.

Getting to the conference was a bit of a challenge, as you may recall the torrential storms we had last Wednesday. As a result, our flight was significantly delayed, pushing our arrival into SEA-TAC ahead five hours. Landing at 2:00 AM, we had missed our connection to Eugene and thus spent the night at the Marriott’s airport hotel.

We were safely at the conference by 10:00 AM on Thursday morning, having only missed the plenary session, although we did hear it was a great presentation. Back on track, we proceeded to our first session, for which I chose a presentation on the Russian River AVA. From there, it was a whirlwind of activity. Eleven educational sessions, three sponsored lunches, an international tasting and a gala dinner later, I was beginning to develop palate fatigue by the last day, but nonetheless, it was a wonderful conference.