North Star

Among the sessions I attended at the SWE Conference was one on Rias Baixas (pronounced ree-ahss bye-shas), presented by Mary Gorman, MW candidate, and Linda Lawry, Director of the International Wine Center.  This lesser-known Spanish wine hails just north of Portugal, within the Galicia region. The region, referred to as "green Spain," is a far cry from other regions in Spain such as the extremely arid La Mancha. Photographs shared in the session depicted lush rolling hills and verdant greenery reminiscent of Mary’s native Ireland. Located along the Atlantic coast, the ocean imparts a great influence on the climate which brings lots of rain; hence the beautiful scenary.

As a consequence of the heavy reains, mildew is among the biggest problems in the vineyard. To combat this, a pergola trellis and training system is used. This approach provides aeration and circulation, while keeping the grapes off the ground and away from the precipitation. It make for a difficult harvest as pickers must stand on a crate to reach the hanging grapes. For larger vineyards holdings, the Espaldera is sometimes used, which is a local variant of the Geneva Double-Curtain. This system results in lower yields and higher quality, but is more expensive and thus, not appropriate for small plots.

The wines are made primarily from the Albarino grape, which is very aromatic and has characteristics similar to that of Riesling. This grape originated here and has been cultivated for centuries. Several other grapes are permitted, which bring their own special character to the blend. For example, Loueiro Blanco provides a laurel note, while Treixadura adds a white, floral aroma.

Winemaking primarily centers on stainless steel fermentation, preserving the freshness of these wines, although a few are experimented with oaked Albarino. Some malo-lactic fermentation is used to manage the acidity, especially in the Val do Salnes subzone, from which 70% of the wines are produced. A pre-fermentation maceration is common with the grapes held at 50oF for six to ten hours. Overall, these wines are clean with crisp acidity and a balsamic (think balsa wood, not the vinegar) character in the finish. They are meant to be drunk young and given the region’s proximity to the sea, match very well with shell fish.

If you have been enjoying Vinho Verdes from Portugal, the next time you are in your local wine store, you might consider figuratively heading north just over the border to try these rising stars.

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