I hope this issue of our Grand Cru Grapevine finds you and your loved ones well.

When I first starting drafting this month’s newsletter back in mid-February, I was thinking about the warmth of Chile amidst the cold weather of New York. However, Chile is now foremost in our minds in the wake of the huge earthquake which hit only days ago. Initial reports from the region indicate that while some of the wineries have sustained damage, the loss seems to be predominantly restricted to material loss rather than loss of life. Many of the wineries have no water or electricity, so the available news is limited at this time. Coming at the beginning of harvest, the wineries will have a long road ahead of them as they struggle to regain power, rebuild facilities and refocus their attention on picking grapes and making wine.

For information on upcoming events with Grand Cru Classes, please check out our website. In the meantime, our thoughts and prayers go out to the Chilean people and we wish them a complete recovery from this disaster. The full ramifications remain to be seen, but perhaps you might pick up a bottle of Chilean wine this month in a show of support (NB: The American Red Cross has noted that there are not any major fundraising efforts being conducted for Chile at this time).

Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

The Warmth of Chile

It may still be winter here in the Northern hemisphere, but it is only just shifting to autumn in Chile. Accordingly, the warmth of summer still permeates the air and provides a virtual respite from our own cold weather. Blessed with an abundance of natural resources, Chile offers an ideal climate for viticulture and is cementing its reputation as a world wine region. Today, Chile is #5 in wine exports worldwide and, while the majority of wines are in the value category, a few premium wines are also receiving recognition.

Although it is predominantly Mediterranean in climate, Chile possesses a variety of climates due to the length of the country. In fact, if it were overlaid over North America, it would run from north of Montreal to the top of South America. Stretched along the Pacific Ocean, Chile enjoys the influence from the Humboldt current, which cools the air and moderates the temperature. On its other side, the Andes Mountains provide a steady supply of water for irrigation from the snow melt high atop the mountain ranges, which is necessary since most rainfall occurs during the winter months.

Chile’s viticulture stems from its French heritage, with grapes imported from France prior to the phylloxera epidemic. And, with its sandy soils, in which the phylloxera louse can’t live, it remains phylloxera-free. Not surprisingly, the grapes that dominate the landscape are Cabernet Sauvignon, Pais, Merlot, Carmenere, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah. Carmenere is unique to Chile having been brought there from Bordeaux about 80 years ago to add color, tannin and acid to wines made from Pais. Prior to 1994, it was mistaken for Merlot in the vineyard, but Professor Boursiquot discovered that Carmenere was not a clone of Merlot. It is now recognized as its own variety with unique attributes. As the latest grape to be picked, it requires a lengthy season to reach full maturity. Therefore, it is not well-suited to Bordeaux, but in the right areas, it can produce great wines in Chile, which are redolent of red fruits, spices and berries, with softer tannins than Cabernet Sauvignon, but good color. These wines are medium-bodied, with flavors of cherry, smoke, spice and earth, and are best drunk young.

Among the many wine regions in Chile, the Maule Valley is the largest. It does not benefit from maritime influence, but has good diurnal variation (reaching highs of 85oF during the day and lows of 45o-50oF at night) and dry farming (no irrigation) is the norm, creating rich, ripe wines. The Aconcagua Valley produced the first vintage in Chile – as early as 1551 – and is responsible for a lot of Chile’s current production. The Casablanca Valley is known for its cool climate white wines, while the up-and-coming area of Limari is hotter and drier, resulting in wines with more complexity and structure on palate. Wines from San Antonio and its three subregions, including Leyda, offer minerality and complexity due to the granitic soils and very breezy climate. Meanwhile, the southerly Bio Bio region contains a cold valley suitable for cool climate varieties and a wind which dries the fruit and delays maturity. This slow ripening preserves the fresh fruit and acidity and makes it a perfect place for growing Pinot Noir.

Tasting Notes

Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2008, San Antonio Valley/Leyda, Chile, $21.00
This wine is produced in 100% stainless steel, with six months of lees ageing and no malo-lactic fermentation. Medium+ aromas of lemon candy, floral and pear pervade the nose. On the palate, it is slightly off-dry with rich fruit flavors of pear, lemon candy, and floral, finishing dry with a mineral undercurrent.

Bodegas y Vinedos, O Fournier Centauri, Red Blend 2007, Maule Valley, Chile, $25.00
Produced from 65-100 year old vines, this wine is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 30% Carignan. It is opaque ruby in color with aromas of floral, eucalyptus and black fruit. Dry, with medium+ tannins, medium acidity and full body, notes of blackberry, mint and pepper remain throughout the medium+ length.

Casas Patronales, Carmenere Reserva 2008, Maule Valley, Chile, $10.00
A step up from their entry-level wine, the Reserva has a dry palate with medium body and acidity. Its flavors of spice, red fruits, raspberry and a slight hint of earth are typical of the Carmenere variety from which it is made.

Veranda Pinot Noir Oda 2007, Bio Bio Valley, Chile, $27.00
This Pinot Noir is aged in new oak barrels for 14-16 months. Its nose contains notes of candied raspberry, herbal and floral. A dry wine, with medium acidity and medium body, raspberry and herbal flavors persist on the palate.

Vina El Aromo Private Reserve Chardonnay 2009, Maule Valley, Chile, $10.00
This winery has been operating in the Maule Valley since 1926 and has shifted its attention away from bulk wines and onto up-market production. On the nose, pronounced aromas of apples, nuts and oak dominate. The palate is dry and full-bodied, with apple, oak and a hint of spice.