Wines of South Africa

I submitted an entry for the Wines of South Africa (WOSA) Wine Professional Competition in October, which consisted of a wine and food pairing suggestion, along with an essay. Unfortunately, I didn’t win, but as I was proud of my essay entry, I am posting it here.

Today, there are more than 60 countries producing wine worldwide, most of which export their wines globally. With this increased globalization, current wine consumers have access to wines from around the corner to those from across the globe and have greater diversity in that selection. Included among this diversity is the emergence of South Africa as a growing wine producing country. While South Africa has only recently entered the global wine market after decades of isolation during apartheid, it has taken the market by storm, presently ranking 9th in overall production, by volume.

In this proliferation of wine production, wines are frequently assigned to one of two categories – Old World (generally those produced in Europe) or New World (namely the U.S, Chile, Argentina, New Zealand and Australia). Yet, South Africa defies this simple categorization, instead straddling the wine world with both Old World sentimentality and a New World sensibility in the creation of its wines. With this blended approach, South African wines possess a unique character that differentiates them from other wines in the worldwide market.

In fact, despite its recent arrival on the wine scene, its roots, literally those of its vines, go back to the Dutch East India Company, which, sought to establish a water route to India in search of spices and other exotic merchandise. For the Dutch, South Africa proved to be a good way station for ships en route to India, which necessitated the cultivation of grapes to make the requisite beverage of the day, wine. Accordingly, South Africa has a long history and tradition of viticulture. This history and tradition has been both a starting point and a point of departure, serving to guide winemakers in their quest for quality. Steeped in history, the first vines were cultivated in Constantia, just outside of Cape Town. This area was the birthplace of the famed Vin de Constance, which was coveted by Napolean during his exile and has recently been revived by producer Groot Constantia. With such historic origins, the Dutch influence can be seen throughout the regions with many of the wineries featuring classic Dutch architecture and Dutch names abound.

Additionally, given its European heritage, the wines of South Africa make extensive use of classic grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay. In this regard, many of the South African wines are balanced in structure with vibrant fruit, but marked by a more restrained use of fruit and an overall elegance, similar to "Old World" wines hailing from Europe (notably Italy, France, Spain and Germany).

However, the South African tradition of vititculture is not as restrictive as it is for their European counterparts. For example, one of South Africa’s signature wines is the Cape Blend. The Cape Blend is a true merging of tradition and modernity. Modeled after the time-honored Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and/or Petit Verdot, South African winemakers substitute their indigenous grape, Pinotage, for one of these grapes to produce their own distinctive interpretation of these multi-varietal wines.

Further, South African winemakers are not bound by the rules and regulations that often tie the hands of their French, Italian and Spanish colleagues. Accordingly, South African producers have the freedom and flexibility to grow what they want, how they want to and where they want to. For some, this means producing a Syrah similar in style to those produced in France’s Rhone Valley, while for others, it means a bolder Australian-style, which will likely be labeled as Shiraz to connote this stylistic difference to the consumer.

Similarly, South Africa’s Wine of Origin scheme puts strong emphasis on place of grape origin, as does Europe’s appellation system, but unlike this system, also permits varietal labeling, making the wines familiar and easily recognizable on the wine shop’s shelf. These wines are also accessible to consumers in that they are ready to be consumed upon purchase rather than requiring several years of maturity to be enjoyed.

Some of this hybrid approach to wine production can be attributed to the South African climate, which provides sufficient sun and warmth to fully ripen the grapes, which differs from many areas of Europe. This means that wines can be full in their fruit flavors, particularly those from warmer, more inland regions such as the Breede River Valley. However, for the coastal regions, the cool Benguela current, which blows off the ocean, tempers the heat and prevents the grapes from becoming too baked, ensuring elegance and complexity in the wines.

Consequently, the wines of South Africa represent significant diversity in permitting consumers to find wines in a multitude of styles from the fruit-forward New World style to more restrained Old World renditions. They also represent tremendous value in the marketplace; with many high quality South African wines available at the $20.00 and under price point, they are affordable options for everyday drinking. Overall, while South Africa’s Old World heritage serves as an important influence, this point of view is also informed by New World wine production, conspiring to produce wines that are well balanced and perfect for today’s wine consumer.

CWE: Two out of three

I arrived home one evening last week to find an envelope from the Society of Wine Educators waiting for me, a little earlier than expected. I opened it up for my results from the Certified Wine Educator exam taken in early November.

I fared well on the multiple-choice, correctly answering 75 of the 85 questions and aced the essay, scoring 14 of the 15 points. Consequently, I earned an 89% on the theory portion of the exam. I passed the faults identification, missing only two of the eight samples. However, as I had feared, I failed the blind tasting, which has never been my strength.

While I have obviously not earned the CWE credential, the two passes will remain and I only have to successfully re-take the blind tasting to complete it. I have not yet identified a test date as it is not being given in NYC and most of the scheduled cities aren’t particularly easy to get to and/or get around in. The most likely option is Providence, RI in April as Amtrak goes to Providence and the test site appears to be only 4 miles from the train station. According to the the current Amtrak schedule, I might even be able to go up and back on the same day, saving the expense of a hotel room.

In the meantime, of course, I have a lot of studying to do. But, fortunately, studying for the blind tasting is a lot more fun than studying for the theory portion.

Two Roads Converged: The Wine World Meets Dentistry

When not immersed in the wine world, I serve as Director of Professional Development and Special Projects at NYU College of Dentistry and was recently appointed as an adjunct faculty member in our Department of Cariology and Comprehensive Care.

Generally, the world of wine and the world of dentistry would seem to be two different worlds, but somehow in my life, the two seem to collide quite frequently. Most recently, I was asked to participate in a research project with two colleagues concerning the effect of wine acidity on tooth enamel. No, I am not a dentist (nor do I play one on TV); however, my wine expertise has been sought out in identifying wines for use in the project.

I have also been asked to conduct a literature review and an initial cursory glance has been quite interesting. A study published in June 2007 indicates that wine may fight the bacteria that causes caries (also known as cavities). Another study has linked the polyphenols in wine with a reduced incidence of periodontitis (gum disease).

But despite this good news, a report on a doctoral student’s thesis from the University of Stellenbosch suggests that the acidity in wine may do significant damage to the enamel. This view was also proffered by my colleague and fellow SWE member, Herbert F. Spasser, DDS, CWE (yet another instance of wine meeting dentistry).

While I still have a more rigorous scrutiny of the literature ahead, these reports provide opposing views on the effect of wine on teeth, which call for additional research to be done. More specifically, research weighing the benefits and risks of wine consumption should be explored. Not that I will stop drinking wine, mind you, but I would like to know the potential consequences of my actions. In any case, it will be an exciting project on which to work and I look forward to the continued convergence of my two worlds.

A Tale of Two Tests

It was the most exhausting of times. In an act of discipline (or mere gluttony for punishment), I succeeded in completing two exams in two cities over the course of two days.

As alluded to previously, I have been preparing for the Unit 6/Fortified Wines exam for the WSET Diploma of Wine & Spirits, this fall. While I still have two papers to write, this was the last of my exams for that credential.

A very busy season (and personal issues) kept me from the study schedule I had envisioned. However, I managed to really buckle down in the last week. Consequently, I arrived at the International Wine Center feeling confident. This confidence remained throughout the one-hour exam, which included a blind tasting of three wines and a short-answer essay on Montilla-Moriles, Port grape varieties and oxidation. While I will not receive my score until around January, I felt reasonably sure that I had passed the exam.

Pausing only for a few minutes to reunite with a classmate who has since moved to Napa, I headed to Penn Station to wait for my train. The two-hour wait did not go wasted as I used the time to review all of the material I had studied in preparation for the previous units (Light Wines of the World, Viticulture and Vinification). This review continued for the better part of my trip, resulting in five hours of study in total. I arrived in Norwood, MA weary and ready for bed.

Thursday morning, I hastily showered and dressed, heading voer to Martignetti Companies’ offices in plenty of time for the 9:00 AM exam start. I was ready for the Certified Wine Educator (CWE) exam (having successfully completed the Certified Specialist of Wine credential in June 2005). This exam entailed 85 mutiple-choice questions, which were to be completed within an hour. This was followed by an essay (30 minute time limit) with a choice of four topics of which we were to select one. With the information from Wednesday’s exam still fresh in my mind, I was very lucky to find one of the topics involved Port. Afterward, candidates had to identify 8 wines from a list of ten and then match 8 faulted wines with their respective faults.

I left feeling that I had achieved a sufficient score on all parts of the exam, with the exception of the wine identification. Blind tasting has never been my strong suit, so I was not surprised. It will be 8-10 weeks before I receive my results on the CWE, but I suspect that I will be headed to re-take the blind tasting part of the exam sometime in 2008. In the meantime, I have two papers to write and lots of wine to drink. Perhaps, it is the best of times.

To SWE or WSET?, that is the question…

I was recently asked to expound on the relative advantages/disadvantages to the Society of Wine Educators (SWE) credentials as compared to the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET) certifications. The inquiry came from someone whose purpose to wine education was more professional than personal. As others may have similar questions, I have chosen to answer the question in a more public forum than a reply e-mail.

For those of you unfamiliar with the two organizations and their respective certifications, an overview is in order. The Society of Wine Educators is a volunteer organization, based in the U.S., but with members throughout the world. Membership is open to both novices and professionals. SWE presents an annual conference, several additional educational programs and presently administers two credentialing programs. The first level credential is the Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), which is earned by successfully passing (75% or higher) a 100-question multiple-choice exam. The Certified Wine Educator (CWE) is much more rigourous, entailing multiple-choice questions, an essay question and two blind tasting exercises (one on identifiying varietals and the other on identifying faults).

The WSET is a non-profit organization based in London, England, which adminsters a number of educational programs, worldwide, primarily focused on wine, but also inclusive of spirits (hence, the S in the title). Its programs are open to novices and professionals, but are primarily intended for professionals, particularly at the higher levels. To that end, coursework and content focus on trade and industry issues as part of the curriculum. In addition, the Diploma program serves as a prerequisite to those interested in pursuing the Master of Wine (MW) credential, which is administered by the Institute of Masters of Wine. The largest U.S-based WSET program is offered by the International Wine Center in New York, NY, where I take my classes.

The advantage to the WSET programs is that, if you live near an approved program provider, you can participate in a traditional class. Students have the opportunity to taste 6 wines per class and are instructed by credentialed wine educators. If you are not near a provider or if you can’t commit to traveling to one (IWC does offer condensed format programs for those traveling to NYC), you will need to complete your program as a home study student, traveling to a provider only to sit for your exam(s).

SWE does not offer any formal classes to prepare for its certifications, so one needs to be more disciplined in their preparation. A Study Guide is available for the CSW; a list of recommended books is available for the CWE, along with some helpful hints from previous exam takers. Exams are offered throughout the year in various cities and at conference; a schedule is posted annually. My understanding is that the CSW must be successfully completed before one can sit for the CWE, which is a change from the past.

A disadvantage to the WSET program is that the WSET does not appear to offer any programming outside of its formal classes within the U.S. There are occasional events in London available to students. SWE has its annual conference, which provides additional educational opportunities as well as a venue for networking.

Since students generally participate in an 8-week or 15-week WSET program, inclusive of materials, study guides and wines, the tuition for the WSET program can get expensive, especially at the Diploma level. In contrast, the only expense associated with SWE credentials is each exam’s registration fee.

Of course, scheduling issues and tuition expenses are not the real reasons to choose one program over another.  The learning experience should be the more important emphasis. I don’t think that the credentials are fully analogous, so it is difficult to compare apples with apples. The WSET Foundation Certificate is the most basic level, but doesn’t seem to be offered much in the U.S. Its Intermediate Certificate is a good place to start. The CSW is more challenging than Intermediate, but less so than Advanced Certificate. The CWE is more rigorous than Advanced Certificate, but less so than Diploma.

For those in restaurants or other, more-service oriented facets of the wine industry, the sommelier programs might be more suitable as they cover wine content, along with related service elements. This track leads to the Master Sommelier (MS) credential, which, like the MW, is extremely rigorous and challenging and achieved by only a few hardy souls.

Consequently, one’s choice of credentials is less cut and dried than simply deciding whether to SWE or WSET. Both organizations are well regarded and offer quality programs. For me, the choice was simple, both. I will take my Unit 6 exam for WSET Diploma on November 7 in New York and will hop on Amtrak to take the CWE exam in Boston on the following day. Assuming that I am successful on both exams, I will be left with two papers to complete for the Diploma. I then plan to take a break from formal wine study while I contemplate whether or not to pursue the MW. Of course, regardless of whether I pursue additional credentials or programs, I will never stop learning about wine.

WSET Diploma Unit 1 Writing Assignments

Among the requirements for the WSET Diploma are four, short research papers (1,500-2,000 words). Each spring, the WSET presents four topics on which candidates can write. These topics can be completed for submission for the November or April deadlines. After April, the current topics are no longer valid and a new set of topics is posted.

Last year I wrote and submitted two of the four papers. One was on climate change and the other was on sensible drinking. The other two have yet to be written, but will be submitted for the April 2008 deadline.

A number of my WSET Diploma colleagues who had not yet written any of their papers had asked me to share mine with them. They found it useful to see the example. I thought other Diploma candidates might find it helpful as well, so I have posted it. However, in order to fulfill my monthly submission requirement for Wine Sediments, I posted the article on Climate Change to Wine Sediments this week. The assignment earned a Pass with Merit.

Hungry for Knowledge

I returned to Kansas City, MO for the second phase of my participation in the Academy for Academic Leadership’s Institute for Teaching and Learning last weekend. Some of the time was spent with a few colleagues from my home institution — NYU — and I had the opportunity to dine out with them on several occasions. Knowing of my academic pursuits in wine, they deferred to me in all matters vinous, even to the point of waiting for me to arrive at the bar to advise them on which glass of wine to order.

On the first night, our group met at the hotel’s revolving restaurant to prepare for our project presentation. When in Rome…, so we all proceeded to order steak — KC Strip and fillet mignon — making my job very easy. I chose a Cabernet Sauvignon from Simi (Alexander Valley, Sonoma, 2004 vintage) and explained the match between tannin and protein. All expressed approval at the selection. The next night, thre of us headed to the well-regarded Fiorella’s Jack Stack BBQ, which practically begged for Zinfandel [Zen of Zin, California (specific details not recalled), 2004 vintage]. It was a terrific match with the sweet barbecue sauce and burnt ends (one of the house specialties) and ribs.

Of particular interest, my colleagues were hungry for wine knowledge, asking detailed questions. Perhaps their roles as scientists can account for some of their inquisitive pursuit. But, more likely, I think it is their true interest in learning more about wine. One colleague noted that she had never had so many wines before and bragged to another that she had learned about five grapes — all in three days! Regardless of motive, I was delighted to sate their appetite with my knowledge and keep the bottles flowing.

What’s in your suitcase?

While at the Austrian wine event, I ran into Reuben, one of my Diploma classmates. He is the Wine Director for the Monday Room, at Public restaurant on Elizabeth Street. He noted that he would be heading home to his native Ribera del Duero for a month’s holiday. Thinking that such a visit sounded quite nice, I asked him if I would fit in his suitcase. While not expecting an affirmative response, I was a bit surprised by his answer. He noted that there wouldn’t be any room left due to all of the wine he would be carrying.

I am always anxious to bring home wine from Europe on my own holidays, but never thought about someone wanting to bring wines back from America. Of course, it makes similar sense as my own purchases, but I guess I hadn’t really ever given it any thought. My classmate noted that he had a cellar at his home in Spain and liked to stock it with American wines in addition to his European collection.

This is certainly a vote of confidence in American wines, which are more recent additions to the wine world than their European counterparts. It also raises the issue about the difficulty in getting a diverse range of wines wherever you live. As a New Yorker, I am fortunate to be able to obtain wines from all over the world, but even still, may not find a lot of the smaller producers since they are unable to get representation/distribution. Likewise, a Spaniard can purchase lots of different Spanish wines, but may have less access to wines from California or Chile. Consequently, visits abroad (in whichever direction) are a great way to learn more about wines one would not ordinarily find at home.

Wine with lunch or lunch with wine?

Last week, I had the pleasure of attending a trade event featuring Monika Caha Selections’ Austrian Wine Portfolio at Telepan restaurant. The event began at 11:30, whereby we were invited to begin tasting through Monika’s portfolio. I had tasted through 29 wines before we were called to sit for lunch, missing out on four red wines and two dessert wines.

The represented wines included those from: Johann Donabaum, Forstreiter, Fritsch, Graf Hardegg, Anita & Hans Nittnaus, Stadlmann and Weninger. The white wines featured were Gruner Veltliners, which is the iconic grape of Austria, along with Rieslings and one Viognier (which came as a surprise to me). With one exception (Graf Hardegg’s Weisse Reserve vom Schloss), all of the wines were single varietals. The featured reds were less homogenous with Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch, St. Laurent and Pinot Noir available to taste.

As we retired to the dining room for lunch, we selected two adjacent seats at a booth, at which a gentleman had staked his claim to the other two. Upon being seated, we introduced ourselves and made the acquaintance of Howard Goldberg (wine journalist for the New York Times) and David Rosengarten (food, wine and cooking authority). They were both charming company.

The five-course luncheon was expertly executed, with each course paired with one – two wines, making 37 wines my grand total for the afternoon. I was particularly pleased with the Egg in a Hole, which was a dish featuring a fried egg, hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, wild spinach and toasted garlic. All in all, it was a lovely afternoon, with the opportunity to taste a wonderful collection of Austrian wines and gain additional evidence as to how well these wines pair with food.

A weight lifted

On our last day in Oregon, I made the mistake of checking e-mail and found a thread of e-mails from my Diploma classmates. The first heralded the arrival of our Unit 3 exam results, with subsequent posts from fellow students who had run out to the mailbox upon receipt of the first. Unfortunately, from my vantage point in Oregon, I was much too far from my mailbox to retrieve my own score. I tried to put it out of my mind for the remainder of the day, as we still had a long plane ride ahead of us.

We landed at Newark Airport, eventually retrieved our car (after initially taking the monorail to the wrong parking lot) and proceeded to drive home. Jared dropped me at the apartment, with our luggage, and headed off to the parking lot. While I awaited his return, I unpacked our bags, emptied the dishwasher and generally put our life back in motion. He entered the apartment and was surprised to learn that I had not yet ripped open the envelope, so he quickly flipped through the stack of mail and bade me to open it right then.

On tenterhooks, I carefully opened the envelope and slipped the pages from its hold, unfolding them to read the results. I was filled with a sigh of relief as I read that I had earned a Pass with Merit. Needless to say, I was pleased with the score and felt much lighter knowing that the end of the Diploma is in sight. With only 9 of the 60 credits remaining, I feel more confident in my wine knowledge and in my ability to successfully complete the Diploma program.