Wine Goes to the Movies – Part II

In a recent posting on the Spirit World, I wrote about the prominent attention that wine is receiving on the big screen. In that article, I mentioned the movie Bottle Shock, which retells the tale of the 1976 Judgement of Paris. At the time I wrote the article, I had not yet had the opportunity to see the movie, but that oversight has been rectified thanks to a screening several weeks ago (Thanks, Vicky!).

I went to see this movie thinking that I wasn’t going to like it since I was not only familiar with the true story that inspired the movie, but also had attended one of the re-creations held by Acker, Merral & Condit in 2006. The Acker event was wonderful, with Steven Spurrier (creator of the original event) in attendance along with George Tabor (author and the only journalist present at the original event) and Christian Vanneque (one of the original judges and, at the time, sommelier at La Tour d’Argent).

However, I was pleasantly surprised at the screening. The plot line was relatively true to reality with only a few, minor inventions. At a Q&A with the writers after the screening, they explained the need to focus on only a few characters. In this case, they chose to feature Jim Barrett and Bo Barrett of Chateau Montelena and in doing so, provided the audience with a rich portrayal of this father and son duo. The scenery, filmed from a helicopter, is quite stunning, showing off the vineyards in all their true spendor.

As a testament to the writers’ abilities, I found myself caught up in the excitement upon the Paris pronouncement that Chateau Montelena had won, despite being aware of this eventual conclusion. Overall, I was glad that I had decided to see the movie over my initial prejudice.

Grapes: The Forbidden Fruit?

The tenor of recent news items regarding wine seems to signal a growing shift back toward the temperance movement. Costco’s loss in their legal battle to purchase direct from wine producers continues to send the message that retailers (and consumers) need to be protected from purchasing alcohol by our three-tier system. Related issues with wineries and retailers still remain in the courts.

Even more appalling, the French newspaper, Le Figaro, was issued a fine for printing an editorial article on Champagne without the corresponding disclaimer about the potential harmful effects of alcohol usually reserved for advertisements. These and other stories continually place wine (and other alcoholic beverages) in the position of being inherently evil. Similarly, articles published in the UK press are admonishing Britain’s middle-class for drinking too many alcohol units and characterizing them, with a single broad brush, as problem drinkers.

In his article, "The Wine Industry of Australia 1788-1979," Gerald Walsh provides a historical account of the total abstinence and temperance movements of the 1880s and 1890s in Australia  and notes that, in 1875, the Dean of Melbourne, "even went so far as to say that the forbidden fruit in the Garden of Eden must have been the grape!"

Historically in America, efforts to control drinking have gone to the extreme, with Prohibition, which banned all alcohol, as a prime example. With a seeming resurgence of this mindset, it will be interesting (and perhaps troubling) to watch the tide as it continues to shift in this regard.

Investment Analysis

Depending upon your en primeur agent, you should be receiving your 2005 Bordeaux futures sometime this summer. As noted previously, we purchased several wines for this much hyped vintage back in July 2006. The current (March 08) issue of Decanter has two articles from its tasting panels featuring this vintage — one on St.-Emilion and the other on the Cru Bourgeois (the classification of which, by the way, will be reinstated in 2009).

The panel was generally pleased with the wines and I noted that one of my Futures picks was listed among the Recommended wines with 16.4 points (of 20), just shy of their cut-off (16.5?) for Highly Recommended. The wine in question, Chateau Beaumont of the Haut-Medoc, received a very nice tasting note, noting that it should be held for 5-10 years and that there was more to come from this wine. The entry heralded the wine as a good value and listed the price at 8-9.5 British Pounds per bottle.

I was delighted to read the news and was compelled to look up our pending inventory to compare. We had purchased a full case, which we have listed at $12.50/bottle. A quick currency conversion indicated that the price in Decanter was $16.00-$18.85. But, what was it going for in the U.S.? I did a quick search on Wine Searcher and found the wine listed at $19.99/bottle at Star Liquors. Wine Library had it listed as out of stock, but their website also showed a sale price at $19.95 from $26.95/bottle.

Consequently, at an average price of $19.00, my investment has increased by ~50%, which I must admit, is much better than I have done in the stock market lately. So, I’m feeling good about the purchase. Of course, I didn’t buy the wine as an investment, but as Sherry-Lehmann has had my money since July 2006 (and the Bordelais have had Sherry-Lehmann’s money), I’m pleased to see that I wouldn’t have been any better off in investing my money elsewhere and buying the wine upon release instead.

Decanter did not include Chateau de Fonbel, of which we also bought a case, among its St.-Emilion tastings, but Wine Searcher and other internet searches yielded similar price increases for this and the other handful of bottles we purchased. I am looking forward to taking delivery of the wines in July, but will have to continue to wait to try them, or at least the Beaumont, for another few years, by which time the wines should have continued to increase in complexity, if not value. A wise investment indeed!

Booze on a Cruise

I recently took my first cruise vacation, which had some interesting experiences when it came to wine.

The wine list was an adequate mix of Old World and New World wine regions, with no particular strengths. However, we were a little surprised that there were no vintages listed with any of the wines. For some of the wines, we didn’t really care, but for others, we asked our server to confirm the vintage before placing our wine order. We surmised that this omission might be due to a need for flexibility in the ship’s inventory, but while it was annoying to have to ask, the information was correctly provided and there did not appear to be any deception going on.

Another surprise, but quite pleasant, was the fact that the ship used quality crystal stemware (Schott Zwiesel) for its wine service.

The mark-up appeared to be reasonable (we estimated it to be about double the retail price), especially considering that you are a captive audience; you can’t go elsewhere to buy wine. In fact, you can’t bring wine on-board. Your luggage is screened upon boarding and any alcoholic beverages will be seized until the cruise ends. I think that you might be able to pay a $25.00/bottle corkage fee to release your wine, but the policy does explicitly state that no alcoholic beverages may be brought onboard. 

On the second night of the cruise, we ordered two bottles of wine with dinner — one white and one red. At the end of dinner, neither bottle had been finished, but we were able to have the restaurant store our wine for us, with the ability to retrieve it at lunch or dinner, in any of the ship’s restaurants. This was a nice feature since there weren’t any half-bottles on the wine list.

We generally ordered wines in the $30-$50 range, but our one big splurge was a bottle of semi-mature Bordeaux, 1996 — our anniversary year– which we enjoyed on our night in the French cuisine specialty restaurant. It was probably not the wisest idea, but we got caught up in the sentimental moment. After our sixth bottle purchase, the seventh bottle, priced at or below the average price paid for the initial six wines, was free.

We had requested to see the ship’s wine cellar, but upon making an appointment to meet the beverage manager, were informed that the cruise line’s policy did not permit guests to visit the back-of-the-house areas. Consequently, we were unable to get information on turnover rates or on how the wine is stored with respect to countering the ship’s vibrations. However, I did find an interesting wine rack accessory product on the web — bottle retention straps — which the manufacturer touts as useful on cruise ships and in earthquake-prone areas.

Wines of South Africa

I submitted an entry for the Wines of South Africa (WOSA) Wine Professional Competition in October, which consisted of a wine and food pairing suggestion, along with an essay. Unfortunately, I didn’t win, but as I was proud of my essay entry, I am posting it here.

Today, there are more than 60 countries producing wine worldwide, most of which export their wines globally. With this increased globalization, current wine consumers have access to wines from around the corner to those from across the globe and have greater diversity in that selection. Included among this diversity is the emergence of South Africa as a growing wine producing country. While South Africa has only recently entered the global wine market after decades of isolation during apartheid, it has taken the market by storm, presently ranking 9th in overall production, by volume.

In this proliferation of wine production, wines are frequently assigned to one of two categories – Old World (generally those produced in Europe) or New World (namely the U.S, Chile, Argentina, New Zealand and Australia). Yet, South Africa defies this simple categorization, instead straddling the wine world with both Old World sentimentality and a New World sensibility in the creation of its wines. With this blended approach, South African wines possess a unique character that differentiates them from other wines in the worldwide market.

In fact, despite its recent arrival on the wine scene, its roots, literally those of its vines, go back to the Dutch East India Company, which, sought to establish a water route to India in search of spices and other exotic merchandise. For the Dutch, South Africa proved to be a good way station for ships en route to India, which necessitated the cultivation of grapes to make the requisite beverage of the day, wine. Accordingly, South Africa has a long history and tradition of viticulture. This history and tradition has been both a starting point and a point of departure, serving to guide winemakers in their quest for quality. Steeped in history, the first vines were cultivated in Constantia, just outside of Cape Town. This area was the birthplace of the famed Vin de Constance, which was coveted by Napolean during his exile and has recently been revived by producer Groot Constantia. With such historic origins, the Dutch influence can be seen throughout the regions with many of the wineries featuring classic Dutch architecture and Dutch names abound.

Additionally, given its European heritage, the wines of South Africa make extensive use of classic grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay. In this regard, many of the South African wines are balanced in structure with vibrant fruit, but marked by a more restrained use of fruit and an overall elegance, similar to "Old World" wines hailing from Europe (notably Italy, France, Spain and Germany).

However, the South African tradition of vititculture is not as restrictive as it is for their European counterparts. For example, one of South Africa’s signature wines is the Cape Blend. The Cape Blend is a true merging of tradition and modernity. Modeled after the time-honored Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and/or Petit Verdot, South African winemakers substitute their indigenous grape, Pinotage, for one of these grapes to produce their own distinctive interpretation of these multi-varietal wines.

Further, South African winemakers are not bound by the rules and regulations that often tie the hands of their French, Italian and Spanish colleagues. Accordingly, South African producers have the freedom and flexibility to grow what they want, how they want to and where they want to. For some, this means producing a Syrah similar in style to those produced in France’s Rhone Valley, while for others, it means a bolder Australian-style, which will likely be labeled as Shiraz to connote this stylistic difference to the consumer.

Similarly, South Africa’s Wine of Origin scheme puts strong emphasis on place of grape origin, as does Europe’s appellation system, but unlike this system, also permits varietal labeling, making the wines familiar and easily recognizable on the wine shop’s shelf. These wines are also accessible to consumers in that they are ready to be consumed upon purchase rather than requiring several years of maturity to be enjoyed.

Some of this hybrid approach to wine production can be attributed to the South African climate, which provides sufficient sun and warmth to fully ripen the grapes, which differs from many areas of Europe. This means that wines can be full in their fruit flavors, particularly those from warmer, more inland regions such as the Breede River Valley. However, for the coastal regions, the cool Benguela current, which blows off the ocean, tempers the heat and prevents the grapes from becoming too baked, ensuring elegance and complexity in the wines.

Consequently, the wines of South Africa represent significant diversity in permitting consumers to find wines in a multitude of styles from the fruit-forward New World style to more restrained Old World renditions. They also represent tremendous value in the marketplace; with many high quality South African wines available at the $20.00 and under price point, they are affordable options for everyday drinking. Overall, while South Africa’s Old World heritage serves as an important influence, this point of view is also informed by New World wine production, conspiring to produce wines that are well balanced and perfect for today’s wine consumer.

Message in a bottle

This is a (lengthy) review of my participation with Bottlenotes, a new wine club service.

I received an e-mail in September regarding a new wine club service called Bottlenotes. I was asked to consider participating in their Bloggernotes program, which provides select Bloggers an opportunity to try the Bottlenotes service in exchange for providing feedback that will be used to improve the service. While it was hoped that participants would love the service so much that we would write about Bottlenotes, it was not a requirement of the program. In the full interest of disclosure, I was provided with a free one-month subscription to try out the service. My participation with the program is still ongoing, but I thought I would begin with some preliminary feedback.

Bottlenotes prides itself on being a different kind of wine club, with several club options available to meet a wide variety of interests. These include the "Little Black Dress Club" aimed at female consumers, Explorers Club, Dinner Party Club, and the Kosher Wine Club, among others. They also tout the ability to match user preferences with wines, custom-selecting one’s wines to meet their tastes. They also sell wines separately from the clubs.

As another component of its service, club members’ wines are automatically listed in their online cellars, which permit them to track their wines and keep notes. They can also manually enter other wines not purchased through Bottlenotes. The service also permits you to view other members’ cellars. We use the stand-alone Cellar Tracker to accomplish this task, so this was less useful to me than it might be for others.

I choose to join their Limited Addictions Club, which offers limited production wines and is limited to 500 members. There was a long delay between signing up and receiving the wine, but club members finally received the just released Diamond Creek Diamond Valley 2005, which retails for $175.00. Accordingly, the two bottle/month shipment was reduced to the single bottle as this club costs $200.00/2-bottle shipment.

I haven’t spent a considerable time browsing through their selection, but in general, it looked to be quite good. However, I have been a little disappointed in their service, which is a change from my initial interactions with the company. When I first signed up for the Club, I was supposed to enter an access code, which somehow didn’t go through. Consequently, my credit card was charged, but before I could follow up with the company for a credit, they reached out to me letting me know that the credit had already been issued. I was quite impressed. Unfortunately, I have had uneven service since then.

The first issue has to do with my account, which somehow became co-mingled with my husband’s order, who is also participating in this market research project. We now have one account in my name, with his name listed in the "ship to" and "bill to" fields. We will accept some responsibility for this as he may have inadvertently logged into my account when submitting his own order. We honestly don’t know how this happened.

The next issue was the considerable delay from sign-up to order fulfillment. The sign-up occured in September, but the wine was not received until late October and there was limited, if any, correspondence from Bottlenotes regarding the order. In fact, I began to think that an error had occured with my account and followed up with them to inquire. At that point, the reason for the delay was explained. This bottle never showed up in my online cellar and had to be entered manually.

The following month, both my husband and I noticed charges on our credit card from Bottlenotes, in the amounts of each of our clubs (he joined the Explorers’ Club) depsite the fact that we had each signed up for a single shipment, not multiple shipments or ongoing memberships. We immediately logged into our account and suspended our memberships, not having seen this option previously. In addition, we sent an e-mail to Bottlenotes requesting that the orders be cancelled and charges refunded to our credit card. While we received two e-mails from Bottlenotes (clearly computer generated): 1) confirming our request to suspend our memberships and 2) asking us to please share our reasons for suspending membership with the company, we never received any response to our request to cancel the orders or receive a refund.

We chose not to pursue it and waited for our orders to arrive. My husband’s arrived a few weeks later. Mine never arrived, nor had I received a credit for the order until last week. On Friday, I sent a follow up request through the Customer Service page on their website. I received a response via e-mail the same day with apologies and the immediate issue of a credit. This has since shown up on my statement.

All in all, I have a mixed review for Bottlenotes. Their customer service was initially wonderful and then suffered a few gaps, returning to good service, so I would recommend them on that count. If you are interested in a wine of the month type club, this may be of interest as they do have a wide selection of choices. I buy too much wine already, plus I am generally shopping for something particular, so the club concept isn’t really for me. I did like the "exclusive" aspect of Limited Addictions, but in reality, these aren’t the wines I drink with much frequency.  Finally, the online cellar tracking is useful, but as I already have a system in place, it duplicates those efforts. However, I would recommend them overall if these features are of interest.

Two Roads Converged: The Wine World Meets Dentistry

When not immersed in the wine world, I serve as Director of Professional Development and Special Projects at NYU College of Dentistry and was recently appointed as an adjunct faculty member in our Department of Cariology and Comprehensive Care.

Generally, the world of wine and the world of dentistry would seem to be two different worlds, but somehow in my life, the two seem to collide quite frequently. Most recently, I was asked to participate in a research project with two colleagues concerning the effect of wine acidity on tooth enamel. No, I am not a dentist (nor do I play one on TV); however, my wine expertise has been sought out in identifying wines for use in the project.

I have also been asked to conduct a literature review and an initial cursory glance has been quite interesting. A study published in June 2007 indicates that wine may fight the bacteria that causes caries (also known as cavities). Another study has linked the polyphenols in wine with a reduced incidence of periodontitis (gum disease).

But despite this good news, a report on a doctoral student’s thesis from the University of Stellenbosch suggests that the acidity in wine may do significant damage to the enamel. This view was also proffered by my colleague and fellow SWE member, Herbert F. Spasser, DDS, CWE (yet another instance of wine meeting dentistry).

While I still have a more rigorous scrutiny of the literature ahead, these reports provide opposing views on the effect of wine on teeth, which call for additional research to be done. More specifically, research weighing the benefits and risks of wine consumption should be explored. Not that I will stop drinking wine, mind you, but I would like to know the potential consequences of my actions. In any case, it will be an exciting project on which to work and I look forward to the continued convergence of my two worlds.

WSET Diploma Unit 1 Writing Assignments

Among the requirements for the WSET Diploma are four, short research papers (1,500-2,000 words). Each spring, the WSET presents four topics on which candidates can write. These topics can be completed for submission for the November or April deadlines. After April, the current topics are no longer valid and a new set of topics is posted.

Last year I wrote and submitted two of the four papers. One was on climate change and the other was on sensible drinking. The other two have yet to be written, but will be submitted for the April 2008 deadline.

A number of my WSET Diploma colleagues who had not yet written any of their papers had asked me to share mine with them. They found it useful to see the example. I thought other Diploma candidates might find it helpful as well, so I have posted it. However, in order to fulfill my monthly submission requirement for Wine Sediments, I posted the article on Climate Change to Wine Sediments this week. The assignment earned a Pass with Merit.

Yes, Virginia, there is a Lenn Thompson

I came across the Lenndevours blog sometime ago, perhaps as long as three years hence. It was a casual occurance and I went along my business. Later, my husband also found the site and began to correspond with Lenn via e-mail given their mutual interests of wine, particularly Long Island wine, and technology.

This correspondence grew over the course of several months and we began to inquire about meeting up. However, fate intervened on each occasion. For any event at which Lenn was to attend, we had other plans and, similarly, he was unavailable to attend the events we did. It seemed ill-fated that we would ever meet in person.

However, I can now say that I have actually met the man and he does exist! As Lenn noted on his blog, he co-hosted a tasting of mature, Long Island wines with us on September 23 at Grand Cru Classes. We tasted twelve wines from the 1995 vintage, which was a terrific opportunity to experience these special wines.

We were also blessed with the company of Neil Dorosin (Brooklyn Wine Guy), Joe Watson (Vine Wine Bar in Greenport) and Chris Watkins (Roanoke Vineyards).