As we discussed last night in class, the Burgundy wine region, as another of France’s great wine regions, is often compared to Bordeaux. In fact, our instructor Mary Ewing-Mulligan, CWE, MW, recalled an instance when she looked up the word bordeaux (in terms of its use as a color) in the dictionary and found "burgundy" as its definition. However, they are quite different.

Whereas the Bordeaux wines are blends of several grape varieties, the wines of Burgundy are mono-varietal. There are four major grapes grown in this region — Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gamay and Aligote. The latter two are of lesser importance, while the first two are responsible for some of the world’s greatest wines.

Why are they so great? Viticulture began in Burgundy centuries ago, giving the region plenty of time to truly understand which grapes thrive best with the given set of conditions. Specifically, up north in Chablis, the soils are particularly rich in marine fossils. The best vineyards are planted here on this soil known as Kimmeridgian. Lesser rated vineyards, but also well regarded, are planted on Portlandian clay in an area known as Petit Chablis.

Further south, within the two districts that make up the Cote d’Or (Cote de Nuits & Cote de Beaune), the soils are primarily limestone mixed with clay and marl. Where limestone predominates (more frequently in the Cote de Beaune), Chardonnay is planted. Conversely, soils with more clay and marl (often in the Cote de Nuits) are planted with Pinot Noir. These vineyards were rated around the same time as Bordeaux’s classification, with delineations for Grand Cru (the best), Premier Cru and Village level wines.

The climate is continental, with spring and autumn frosts as potential hazards, along with summer hail. Some of this is overcome by planting midway down on east or south-east facing slopes, catching the most sun. Unlike Bordeaux, it is much drier, so rot doesn’t pose a problem.

Winemaking practices in the region vary with respect to the use of oak, both in length of time as well as how much oak is used. The better producers are judicious in their use of oak, not wanting it to overpower the lovely red fruit flavors of Pinot Noir, nor the apple and mineral notes of Chardonnay. Pinot Noir is barrel aged for 16-18 months, while the Chardonnay receives 6-9 months in oak.

Less prestigious are the districts of Cote Chalonnaise and Macon, which lie south of the Cote d’Or. Wines from Cote Chalonnaise are similar to those made in the Cote d’Or, but they generally have less ageing potential. The villages of Mercurey and Givry are most admired and will be expensive, but much less so than the Grand Crus and Premier Crus of their northern neighbors.

Macon wines primarily center around Chardonnay, with somewhat richer and riper flavors due to their more southernly location. The appellation of Pouilly-Fuisse is highly regarded.

As with many things, some producers are better than others, taking more care in the vineyard and in the cellar to craft their wines. Many producers are also negociants, buying grapes from many different vineyards and producing wines on the various levels. Among the most respected negociants are Louis Jadot and Joseph Drouhin. 

With Burgundy’s marginal climate, vintage variation also matters. The 2002 vintage is hailed as a particularly good one, while 2005 is garnering tremendous praise as one of the best vintages in history. Not surprisingly, you can expect to find rising prices on these wines.