Crystal Ball

If you follow the wine trade at all, you probably noticed that the 2005 Bordeaux vintage is headlining nearly every wine publication.  This vintage is being heralded as the best vintage since…ever. Accordingly, there is significant hype surrounding the launch of these much-vaunted wines. This means that we should all be in for a real treat if we are lucky to get to taste these wines either upon release or later on in their lives. It also means that their initial price offerings are staggering; wines that had previously sold in the double-digits are now offered at triple-digits.

These wines, made from the grapes harvested in 2005, still have to mature before they are bottled and released in 2008. However, they are now available as futures, which entails placing your order today for receipt of the wines later. This provides the chateaux with much needed cash flow while the "merchandise" sits in their cellars. Purchasing futures can be a good way to acquire Bordeaux wines, but similarly to investment in other futures (i.e. stocks, hogs, gold) it is not without risk.

First and foremost, make sure that you are dealing with a reputable wine merchant. You are giving someone your money upfront and won’t take delivery until several years later, so you want to be certain that the someone will still be around to deliver on their promise. I have always trusted Sherry-Lehmann in this regard. They have been in the futures game for over 50 years, so they have both longevity and experience. But, they are certainly not the only trustworthy merchant around.

Another important point to consider is the price paid. When buying futures, you are betting that the initial price will be less expensive than the price offered upon release. Yet, there is no guarantee that this will be true. A wine might rate an impressive score today (all of the wines were tasted as barrel samples by the trade several months ago), but the same critic may feel differently about the wine when they taste it a few years hence, which could cause the price to fall.

The advantage to buying futures is that you can ensure that you will have access to the wines you want before they are sold out. Presumably, with the high regard for these wines, they will be difficult to procure in 2008 if you didn’t purchase them as futures. Again, there is no guarantee that this will be true either.

Personally, as a Bordeaux lover, I can’t help, but get caught up in all of the hoopla. My first forray into futures was with the 2000 vintage, which was another successful year for Bordeaux, now overshadowed by 2005. I haven’t finalized my selection yet, but I know that I’ll need to make room in my cellar for the new lot. Fortunately, I have a few years in which to drink through all those bottles in the way.

Corked, Capped or Screwed?

Yesterday, I attended a seminar and luncheon presented by MHUSA on alternate closures. For those unfamilar with non-alternate closures, they are in a word — cork. As alternatives, the wine industry hs turned to screw caps and crown caps among other products. NB: Crown caps are used for sparkling wines, while screw caps are found on still wines.

Cork has been the method of choice for wine closures for centuries, but recent failure rates (reports of which range from 2-12%) are no longer acceptable. The primary failure in question is that of cork taint, caused by a reaction of the Tri-ChloroAnisole (TCA) bacteria with chlorine/chlorinated-compounds. This negative reaction begins on the surface of the cork and then spreads to the wine itself, rendering it undrinkable and smelling like my wet, moldy basement (or anyone’s wet, moldy basement for that matter).

The discussion took place among a distinguished panel of winemakers hailing from Domaine Chandon (CA) and Greenpoint (Aus) as well as the off-premise (Acker Merrall) and on-premise (Mark Hotel) trade and centered on the changing use of alternate closures in the industry.  While many people historically associate screw caps with less expensive wines, their use in fine wines is becoming more prevalent. Notably, 90% of all wine made in New Zealand from the 2006 vintage will be bottled under a screw cap or crown cap. Australia lags behind with a figure of 45%. Of further interest, market figures show a positive acceptance of the alternate closures in Japan, which is among the most traditional markets.

The U.S. consumer has been somewhat slower to demand alternate closures than their Southern hemisphere counterparts, but none of the panel members indicated any real resistance. The technology has evolved dramatically, especially over the last two years, making these closure choices near perfect. They seem to overcome issues of cork taint, oxidation (spoilage by contact with O2) and reduction (off-flavors from a lack of O2). However, they are not without their critics and APCOR (the trade organization representing the cork industry) has recently launched its own campaign to laud the advances made in cork technology to address its (former) failures. The U.S. campaign is fronted by an MS (whose name escapes me at the moment) and Lisa Airey of the Society of Wine Educators. I am confident that this debate will continue throughout this decade.

At the conclusion of the seminar, we had the opportunity to taste through two samples each of five wines (one under cork and the other under screw or crown cap). Since these were young wines (the oldest was 2003), the comparison was less evident, but it did appear that the caps retained the freshness and fruit slightly better than the corks. However, only time will tell.

In the meantime, it is clear that both traditional and alternate closures have their place in the market. The merits of one or the other aside, nothing can substitute for proper storage of your wine in order to preserve their quality. Expose your wine to light, heat and/or vibrations and you will be screwed, regardless of the closure on the bottle!

Launched!

This weekend has arrived and brought positive results all around. Yesterday was the big day. We launched our first class with 14 students and, despite the artic weather (it was cold for June), I think it went well. We presented our From Vine to Wine class, which covers the full gamut from grape growing to wine making and then provides a guided tasting of five wines. The group seemed to have a good time and the course evaluations were predominently positive. There was one guy who yawned throughout, but perhaps he partied too much the night before?

It was a great first experience and bodes well for the rest of the summer. We did have to cancel today’s class (Sunday) due to a lack of sign-ups, but we’ll be experimenting with different time slots in July. Our guess is that people don’t want to commit to a morning activity on Sundays.

Later on in the day, we were delighted to learn that the private class we donated to a silent auction to benefit a son’s school brought in the most money of the evening. We are looking forward to presenting the class to the lucky group later this year.

We also had the pleasant opportunity to share dinner with Harvey Passes and his wife Marji, enjoying several wonderful bottles of wine, along with great food and great company.

Our next class will be June 17 at Castello di Borghese, Long Island’s first vineyard — it is an exciting opportunity to teach at such an historic property.  If June is too busy for you, stay tuned for our July schedule — to be posted very soon.

A Sigh of Relief

Well, the exam is behind me now. At least the current one, that is. I’m confident that I passed, but I’m sure I could have performed better, as well. For a multiple-choice exam, it was incredibly difficult. You really had to know your stuff; there was no bluffing that could help as the choices differed from one another often by only a single word. I expect that it will be about two months before I get my score since the scan-tron sheets are sent to London (home of the WSET) for grading. Regardless, the studying really cemented the information in my head so I’m ready to teach this week.

My next challenge is tackling the Certified Wine Educator exam, to be held in late August. This exam is a combination of multiple-choice, essay and blind tasting exercises. No rest for the weary…

Down to the Wire

Yes, I know I am supposed to be posting more frequently than I have been, but my focus has been elsewhere. As noted previously, my Unit 2 exam for the Diploma of Wine & Spirits is this Monday evening and I am busy studying every last detail of viticulture and viniculture. On the positive side, I will be that much more prepared for our first wine class on Saturday, June 10. Once the exam is over, I will move on to the unit, which covers the business of wine, further strengthening my understanding of this exciting industry. Well, now it’s back to the books for a few final days of cramming.

Crunch Time

As a Diploma student at the International Wine Center, I have my Unit 2 exam on June 5. Accordingly, I have been busy studying with a classmate as well as on my own. While the exam in only multiple-choice format, the level of detail we are expected to know is quite intense. Though studying is not always a lot of fun, I agree that as a wine educator/expert, it is important for me to be fully knowledgeable about viticulture and viniculture.

My first consumer class will be presented on June 10 and is our From Vine to Wine session. This class focuses on viticulture and viniculture to provide the consumer with a better appreciation for the time, talent and treasure that goes into making each bottle of wine. We will then taste through several wines, which will illustrate the principles covered in class.

I am confident that my exam review will put me in good stead for teaching my own class. The challenge is to keep myself from going into too much detail with my students until they ask for it. I want them to learn, but I also want them to enjoy themselves; wine should always be fun.

Building a Great Wine

Last night I had the good fortune to attend the International Wine Center’s third annual forum, with featured speaker, Richard Geoffroy. Dr. Geoffroy has the distinction of being the Chef du Cave for Dom Perignon, the prestige cuvee for the Champagne house, Moet & Chandon. The topic was the Architecture of Wine and Dr. Geoffroy spoke about the key elements necessary for building an excellent sparkling wine, particularly Champagne. These include: a focus on fruit character above and beyond winemaking techniques; the fusion of fruit and yeast character as fully integrated; and mouthfeel as it pertains to the intensity, structure, texture and finish of the wine. Of notable interest was his emphasis on blending, rather than using a single variety, for the creation of wines that work from the front to the finish. Thinking about his thesis, I had a greater understanding for what truly distinguishes a fair or good sparkler from a really great one. In tasting the 1998 Dom Perignon, it was clear that all of these elements had been properly executed. The only disappointment to the evening was the inability to get a second class.

Meeting of the Minds

Last week, we attended the Master Wine Class Dinner co-sponsored by world-renowned wine educator Kevin Zraly and Sherry-Lehmann. This particular event, held at Park Avenue Cafe, featured two well-respected chateau owners, M. Prats from Cos d’Estournel and M. Hubert from Chateau Angelus, both from Bordeaux. The reception began with a tasting of each chateau’s second label wine as well as Lucas Carton champagne (poured from magnum). The champagne was especially nice with the lobster roll hors d’ouerves.

Moving into dinner, we were given a sample of one wine from each chateau with each course, with the Angelus from Bordeaux’s right bank served on the right and the Cos from the left bank, poured on the left. The first pair was from the highly vaunted 2000 vintage. Both wines were wonderful, but I was partial to the Cos. The other pairs were drawn from older vintages as far back as 1986.

While both chateau consistently receive high scores, the ability to taste them side by side was especially useful as the Cos is typical of other left bank Bordeaux in that it is heavily Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, while the Angelus (as with most Pomerol and St. Emilion wines) was more Merlot focused. Accordingly, the tasting provided the opportunity to see how the different blends play out in the finished wine, allowing for stylistic differences among wineries.

As a notable highlihgt to the evening, we had the good fortune to meet Kevin Zraly and discuss our wine school venture with him. He was most gracious in his willingness to speak with us and share his own experiences. He has long been someone I have admired and I still have the 1985 edition of his Windows on the World Wine School book. If you don’t own his book, you can look for more recent editions (2005?). It is a terrific resource for wine lovers at all levels. Finally, we also worked up the courage to introduce ourselves to Michael Aron of Sherry-Lehmann letting him know that we have been including his wines in several of our previous newsletters. All in all, it was a fabulous event and added much to our own education.

Day of Wine & Roses

This week we were priviledged to be featured on Dr. Harvey Passes public access show, "Harvey Passes Presents…", on Cablevision. Although I’ve appeared on television previously, this was my first studio taping; the other pieces had been filmed in my home. The Charlie Rose style set was both formal and inviting, providing a nice setting in which to conduct a casual conversation about wine and a brief tasting of four Long Island wines.

After the taping, we raced back to the city to attend the Rose Avengers & Producers (RAP) event, which featured ~30 rose wines from the U.S. (including Long Island), France, Spain and others. We were able to quickly taste through approximately 10 wines, with a particular emphasis on completing our May newsletter, "Everything’s Coming Up Roses." Three of those wines were ultimately written up for this purpose.

By now it was 5:30 PM and I had just enough time to get uptown to my Diploma of Wine & Spirits class. That evening’s class was facilitated by Larry Perrine of Channing Daughters Winery, whom I had briefly met earlier at the RAP event. The session was quite interesting as Larry discussed both the text book aspects of wine finishing and maturation processes, along with the reality of what actually happens in the winery. Accordingly, I learned a lot about that aspect of vinification and hope to successfully convey this information to my students in the same way.

Returning home after class, I changed my clothes and poured myself into bed, the end of the day finally at hand. Despite my exhaustion, filling the day with the world of wine had been both fun and educational.

Whether the Weather

When we’re in the midst of a given season, the weather usually seems so distinct at the time — a particularly rainy spring, a very hot, dry summer or a mild winter. But, with time and the arrival of the next season, last year’s climate characteristics become a distant memory, if we can recall them at all. Coversely, grape growers and winemakers don’t soon forget these details because those weather patterns will make or break their livelihood. Not only are they concerned about the intensity of the climatic conditions, but also whether the right things happen at the right time.

With the Bordeaux en primeur campaign in full swing, accompanied by reports heralding it as one of the best vintages of all time, the 2005 season had all of the right conditions, perfectly timed to produce amazing grapes. I was not lucky enough to visit Bordeaux last summer, so I can’t vouch for the perfect weather, nor did I check the French weather reports.

However, I was fully aware of the conditions here at home — a beautiful growing season (for grapes, but not other produce), followed by the October deluge, which ruined many vines as the grapes soaked up all the water and split open. For the whites, which were harvested before the rains came, it was also one of the best vintages of all time. These wines are hitting the wineries’ tasting rooms now and over the next few months. Accordingly, if you want to taste some spectacular, fresh and fruity wines, head out to the East End and enjoy!