Decanter’s Loss

I sent in the following letter to the Decanter editor, but it wasn’t published in this month’s issue (although one from a fellow DWS classmate – Lisa Carley – was), so rather than have it go to waste, I’m posting it here.

If top collector Charles Klatskin isn’t buying certain 2005 Bordeaux futures on principle (Decanter.com: ‘Insane’ Bordeaux prices turn top collector away, July 12, 2006, Howard Goldberg), what hope do the rest of us ‘mere mortals’ pleading poverty have? Actually, quite a lot.

As a much more modest collector, but one not immune to the 2005 hoopla, I have sought out a few bargains and generally managed to stay close to the $500 budget I set for myself. Distilling reviews and advice from Decanter, Jancis Robinson’s website, along with Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator tasting notes and scores provided on my wine merchant’s website, I found a few gems, which seem to hold promise in both the appreciation they will find on my palate and provide on my pocketbook.

At $55.95 per bottle, my splurge was a single bottle of Domaine de Chevalier, one of the only wines I could afford from Decanter’s list of 5-star wines. More frugally, I picked up a case of Chateau Beaumont ($150.00/case) and another of Fonbel ($225.00), the latter of which, with a Parker score of 90-93, was a veritable steal at $21.95/bottle. This was rounded out with two bottles of Chateau d’Armailhac at $39.95, of which I have a bottle of the 2000.

While I don’t expect to get rich on any of these purchases, I am confident that these wines will provide great pleasure, if not the staying power of their more expensive counterparts. Of course, wealthier and less- principled collectors may have more stellar wines in their cellars. But, from my standpoint, if a rising tide lifts all boats and, by all accounts, the 2005 vintage was a heck of a tide, we should all be in good stead when it comes time to drink.

We Know Pinot

Another session I attended at the SWE Conference last month featured several wine producers from the Dundee Hills appellation in the Willamette (rhymes with damn it!) Valley of Oregon. The Dundee Hills has the highest concentration of vineyards and wineries within the state, with approximately 2,000 acres planted.

Located on the 45th parallel, which places it similarly to Burgundy, the region benefits from a maritime climate as influenced by the Pacific Ocean, making it more temperate than Burgundy. The first plantings were made in 1966, with the first grapes harvested in 1970. The better plantings are found on hillsides, with good drainage.

As members of the panel related, many of them second generation vineyard owners and winemakers, there was a lot of collaboration among growers in the 1970s. They recalled the parties at which the grownups would discuss trellising and clones, while the children would run amok and have fun. The area arrived at a turning point in 1980 when its wines placed in a Paris competition.

Today, Dundee Hills is considered the epicenter of Oregon Pinot Noir and is highly regarded for these wines. Produced from the Pommard clone, the wines themselves have a brightness of red fruits, with nice, lively acidity and freshness; they are silk and velvet on the palate.

As this next generation guides Dundee Hills and makes wines of great repute, it is clear that they too know Pinot.

Match Point

Regardless of the course topic, food and wine pairing is a subject that comes up frequently in my classes. It seems that many consumers feel completely in the dark when it comes to selecting a wine that will complement their food choice. I find this especially interesting since it is only relatively recent that we, as a nation, have begun turning to wine as a beverage of choice. Many of our citizens still reach for soda, juice or milk when dining and probably never give it a thought.  I can’t imagine someone considering the merits of a lemon-lime soda (white) versus a cola (red?) to pair with their meal.

But, of course, wines can truly accentuate a meal in ways that other beverages can’t. When drinking wine with food, there are changes that occur in the way that the food is perceived on the palate. Similarly, the food influences the way that the wine tastes. When chosen wisely, beautiful harmonies can result. Matches selected with less precision may provide lesser experiences, but few matches are really disastrous. At least not more so than drinking lemonade with an osso bucco or other non-wine mismatch.

So, why does food and wine pairing strike fear in the heart of the consumer (and here, the noun consumer is all the more appropriate)? I would suggest that the mystery, snobbery and structure that surrounds the world of wine places the less-knowledgeable wine lover in a defensive position. He or she has been taught that there is a right way and a wrong way. However, unlike non-wine beverages, there is no admonishment to choose the right one. Thus, anything other than wine comes naturally, while wine choices are fraught with the stress of picking the perfect wine.

Perhaps if the message that there is no one perfect wine for a given situation was sent to consumers more often, they could all relax a bit more and enjoy their wine and meal without getting a headache before the wine is even drunk.

North Star

Among the sessions I attended at the SWE Conference was one on Rias Baixas (pronounced ree-ahss bye-shas), presented by Mary Gorman, MW candidate, and Linda Lawry, Director of the International Wine Center.  This lesser-known Spanish wine hails just north of Portugal, within the Galicia region. The region, referred to as "green Spain," is a far cry from other regions in Spain such as the extremely arid La Mancha. Photographs shared in the session depicted lush rolling hills and verdant greenery reminiscent of Mary’s native Ireland. Located along the Atlantic coast, the ocean imparts a great influence on the climate which brings lots of rain; hence the beautiful scenary.

As a consequence of the heavy reains, mildew is among the biggest problems in the vineyard. To combat this, a pergola trellis and training system is used. This approach provides aeration and circulation, while keeping the grapes off the ground and away from the precipitation. It make for a difficult harvest as pickers must stand on a crate to reach the hanging grapes. For larger vineyards holdings, the Espaldera is sometimes used, which is a local variant of the Geneva Double-Curtain. This system results in lower yields and higher quality, but is more expensive and thus, not appropriate for small plots.

The wines are made primarily from the Albarino grape, which is very aromatic and has characteristics similar to that of Riesling. This grape originated here and has been cultivated for centuries. Several other grapes are permitted, which bring their own special character to the blend. For example, Loueiro Blanco provides a laurel note, while Treixadura adds a white, floral aroma.

Winemaking primarily centers on stainless steel fermentation, preserving the freshness of these wines, although a few are experimented with oaked Albarino. Some malo-lactic fermentation is used to manage the acidity, especially in the Val do Salnes subzone, from which 70% of the wines are produced. A pre-fermentation maceration is common with the grapes held at 50oF for six to ten hours. Overall, these wines are clean with crisp acidity and a balsamic (think balsa wood, not the vinegar) character in the finish. They are meant to be drunk young and given the region’s proximity to the sea, match very well with shell fish.

If you have been enjoying Vinho Verdes from Portugal, the next time you are in your local wine store, you might consider figuratively heading north just over the border to try these rising stars.

Conference Reflections

It is Friday morning and I’m sitting in a hotel conference center staring down eight imposing wine glasses. Despite the early hour and my jetlag, I am eager to learn about the wines in front of me. Yes, I know, for most people, drinking wine at 8:00 AM would indicate a problem, but I assure you, I am a trained professional.

As a member of the Society of Wine Educators, I have traveled to Eugene, Oregon to attend the annual conference and update my wine knowledge. Over the course of three days, I see much more of the hotel than the city itself, attending eleven educational seminars, an International Wine Tasting and the awards dinner. While a few of the seminars do not provide a tasting component, most do, averaging six to eight glasses each. One or two presenters even break the ten wine limit that had been mandated.

The session starts and the presenter regales us with stories on how the grapes in our glasses got their names. We are also provided with information on the twenty wine regions within Italy and the laws that govern the production of wine there. Her PowerPoint display is filled with breathtaking views of the various vineyards from which these wines come. Thirty minutes later, we commence with tasting. Concurrently, we are given specific details on the wines such as grape varieties, fermentation vessels and ageing length, among others.

With one’s palate at its peak in the morning, drinking this early is actually beneficial to the learning process. I pull the first glass toward me and tilt it over the white placemat to view the wine’s color and intensity. Next, I swirl the glass on the table to release its aromas and take a big sniff, carefully noting the scents I identify on my tasting sheet. I then take a sip of wine and swish it around my mouth, paying close attention to the sensations the wine produces in terms of its sweetness, acidity, structure and flavors. These, too, are noted on my sheet and then I pull a paper cup to my mouth and spit. Yes, it sounds, at best, un-ladylike and at worst, quite disgusting, but, with three more sessions, a lunch sponsored by Wines of Spain and tonight’s dinner all still ahead, I need to stay clearheaded and keep my palate sharp in order to give the eighth wine, and even the twenty-eighth wine, my full attention.

We finish tasting through all of the wines as the presenter wraps up her discussion. The last wine is a favorite of mine and though I am reluctant, this too is spat into the cup. On the way out, I pause to reconnect with a woman I met at last year’s conference and then meet up with another colleague who has attended a session on the globalization of wine. We briefly compare notes and head off to learn more. By the end of the weekend, I am exhausted, but, I hope, all the wiser.

SWE’onderful

We are back from our trip to Eugene, Oregon where we attended the 30th annual conference of the Society of Wine Educators (SWE). We were unable to take the time to participate in any of the pre-conference visits to the local wineries, so we will have to make another trip. But, with my parents moving to Ashland, OR in the next few days, I’m sure that won’t be a problem.

Getting to the conference was a bit of a challenge, as you may recall the torrential storms we had last Wednesday. As a result, our flight was significantly delayed, pushing our arrival into SEA-TAC ahead five hours. Landing at 2:00 AM, we had missed our connection to Eugene and thus spent the night at the Marriott’s airport hotel.

We were safely at the conference by 10:00 AM on Thursday morning, having only missed the plenary session, although we did hear it was a great presentation. Back on track, we proceeded to our first session, for which I chose a presentation on the Russian River AVA. From there, it was a whirlwind of activity. Eleven educational sessions, three sponsored lunches, an international tasting and a gala dinner later, I was beginning to develop palate fatigue by the last day, but nonetheless, it was a wonderful conference.

Future Picks

Well, we finally placed our futures order for the 2005 Bordeaux. We spent a Sunday afternoon flipping back and forth between the Sherry-Lehmann website, Jancis Robinson’s website and the Decanter magazine article that rated the 2005 futures. Much of the decision was made on price, with a wide number of wines priced well-beyond our range. We set a budget of $500, with the intent of purchasing several wines in the $20-$50 bracket, as opposed to a single bottle at $500.

In selecting the individual wines, we tried to find wines that not only scored well, but also had tasting notes, which appealed to our general taste in Bordeaux wines. We also looked to balance high scores with lower prices, in addition to the wine’s pedigree, i.e. third growth vs. cru bourgeois. Ideally, our selected wines have great tasting profiles, reasonably good pedigrees (most of the classified growths were outrageously expensive), high scores across critics and reasonable prices. 

While we don’t generally give considerable weight to critic scores in our buying decisions, in the interest of at least maintaining our investment value in the wines, we felt that such consideration was necessary. We are not expecting to make money on our futures purchase, but we don’t want to buy something now, only to find that it is available much cheaper later on. Of course, despite the machinations we went through to select our wines, it is still somewhat of a gamble. Only time will tell. Check back with me in 2008…

Wine Pairing Dilemma

Many people wonder about pairing the right wine with the right food. Fortunately, we have moved well beyond the simple mantra of white wine with white meat and red wine with red meat. I am willing to try new combinations of wine and food and have attended several educational sessions, which challenged the participants to think outside the box when pairing.

However, I often have a more basic dilemma. We have several bottles in our cellar, which I consider to be very nice bottles. These are bottles that are generally more expensive than our standard house wines and are often somewhat special in their limited production, my sentimental attachment to them or both. The problem is that I am not comfortable in opening these wines to pair with simple food.

Yes, that bottle of Pride Mountain Merlot (purchased at their Napa vineyard) might go well with Italian food, but, if I make spaghetti and open a jar of sauce, am I being disrespectful to the wine? What if I am too lazy to even boil water and microwave a Weight Watchers pizza instead? I wonder how the winemaker might feel knowing that I had squandered their lovely wine by drinking it with a frozen dinner. Would s/he be insulted? Or, perhaps they don’t care, as long as I enjoyed the wine? 

I know I feel guilty to "share" these wines with such base food. Rather, I hoard them until I am ready to make a fancy dinner. But, unfortunately, among work, school and launching a business, I rarely have the time or the energy for grand cooking endeavors anymore. Hence, my nice wines remain in the cellar. Perhaps I am overthinking the whole thing and should simply consider that wine goes with food, period. Is it time for dinner yet?

Fresh & Fabulous

Due to recent illness, I’ve regretably had to miss two wines events in the last week, but, restored to health, I can happily report on the Prosecco event I attended yesterday.

For those unfamiliar with Prosecco, it is a sparkling wine, generally from Italy. Keeping things simple, the grape variety is Prosecco, the region is Prosecco and the wine itself is called Prosecco. In a word, Prosecco.

The highest quality Proseccos are those with the Prosecco DOC designation, which means that the viticulture and vinification all conform to the appellation laws and are regulated by the local consortium. The appellation is primarily demarcated by two main towns — Conegliano and Valdobbiadene — located within the province of Treviso, which lies approximately 30 miles from Venice. Within this area, there are 3,500 growers and 135 producers.

The Prosecco grape is indigenous to this area and thus thrives in the region’s hilly vineyards, at the foothills of the pre-Alps. The days are warm, with cooler nights, allowing for aromatics to develop in the grape. The most superior vineyards are located in the village of Cartizze in which there are 267 acres planted. Here, the vineyards have a southernly exposure, better soils and yields are kept lower. Consequently, these wines are highly prized.

Upon harvest, the grapes are crushed and pressed as with any white wine, and fermented in stainless steel tanks for 15-20 days at at temperature of ~65°F. It is then racked, clarified and filtered before being placed in large stainless steel vats.

Utilizing the Charmat method of producing a sparkling wine, concentrated grape must and yeast are added to the vat, whereby a secondary fermentation begins and is held for 45 days. During this period, the CO2 produced by the fermentation is trapped in the vat and adds sparkle to the wine. The sediment from the spent yeast is then removed and the wine itself bottled. Unlike the traditional method (the method used in Champagne), the process is conducted en masse in the vat, rather than in the individual bottles. Accordingly, the fresh and fruity aromas and flavors of the wine are retained and yeasty/bready notes are less prominent than in Champagne and Champagne-style sparklers.

With the quick production method, Prosecco makes its way to the market within the same year as it is harvested. It is expected to be drunk in its infancy to best enjoy its freshness. Prosecco pairs well with many foods from seafood and fish to vegetables, cream cheeses and Asian foods. It can also be a nice match with slightly fried foods as the acid in the wine washes away the oil from the palate. Sweeter styles can also go well with lighter desserts.

Pale lemon in color and with a medium bead, Proseccos tend toward a floral bouquet, with notes of white fruits (apple, pear and citrus) on the palate. It is lower in alcohol than many wines, averaging about 11% abv. Wines labeled as Brut will be drier than those labeled as Extra Dry, which is true of all sparkling wines. Wines from Cartizze will be labeled as such and generally are slightly sweeter than the Extra Dry.

Their crisp acidity, fresh fruit flavors and sparkle make Proseccos a great wine for the summer. Perhaps even more refreshing is their price. The generic Proseccos (those from outside the delimited area) start as low as $9.00/bottle, with the better Prosecco DOCs running $15-$20 and the Cartizzes ranging from $25-30, placing these wines well within reach for every day drinking. Why not open one today?

Exam Update

After three days home in bed with the flu, I received a welcome post in the mail. My Unit 2 exam scores arrived and I was quite pleased with the results. While they do not provide participants with their specific numerical score, I do know that I achieved at least a 75, as I not only passed, but passed with distinction. I had been told that no one scores above 80 on this exam, so while a 75 seems like a C in comparison with other grading systems, it is rather a successful grade in this case. Needless to say, I am both relieved and proud of my achievement. Of course, I still have 5 additional units to go, but it is a nice start to this journey.