Grapes: The Forbidden Fruit?

The tenor of recent news items regarding wine seems to signal a growing shift back toward the temperance movement. Costco’s loss in their legal battle to purchase direct from wine producers continues to send the message that retailers (and consumers) need to be protected from purchasing alcohol by our three-tier system. Related issues with wineries and retailers still remain in the courts.

Even more appalling, the French newspaper, Le Figaro, was issued a fine for printing an editorial article on Champagne without the corresponding disclaimer about the potential harmful effects of alcohol usually reserved for advertisements. These and other stories continually place wine (and other alcoholic beverages) in the position of being inherently evil. Similarly, articles published in the UK press are admonishing Britain’s middle-class for drinking too many alcohol units and characterizing them, with a single broad brush, as problem drinkers.

In his article, "The Wine Industry of Australia 1788-1979," Gerald Walsh provides a historical account of the total abstinence and temperance movements of the 1880s and 1890s in Australia  and notes that, in 1875, the Dean of Melbourne, "even went so far as to say that the forbidden fruit in the Garden of Eden must have been the grape!"

Historically in America, efforts to control drinking have gone to the extreme, with Prohibition, which banned all alcohol, as a prime example. With a seeming resurgence of this mindset, it will be interesting (and perhaps troubling) to watch the tide as it continues to shift in this regard.

Investment Analysis

Depending upon your en primeur agent, you should be receiving your 2005 Bordeaux futures sometime this summer. As noted previously, we purchased several wines for this much hyped vintage back in July 2006. The current (March 08) issue of Decanter has two articles from its tasting panels featuring this vintage — one on St.-Emilion and the other on the Cru Bourgeois (the classification of which, by the way, will be reinstated in 2009).

The panel was generally pleased with the wines and I noted that one of my Futures picks was listed among the Recommended wines with 16.4 points (of 20), just shy of their cut-off (16.5?) for Highly Recommended. The wine in question, Chateau Beaumont of the Haut-Medoc, received a very nice tasting note, noting that it should be held for 5-10 years and that there was more to come from this wine. The entry heralded the wine as a good value and listed the price at 8-9.5 British Pounds per bottle.

I was delighted to read the news and was compelled to look up our pending inventory to compare. We had purchased a full case, which we have listed at $12.50/bottle. A quick currency conversion indicated that the price in Decanter was $16.00-$18.85. But, what was it going for in the U.S.? I did a quick search on Wine Searcher and found the wine listed at $19.99/bottle at Star Liquors. Wine Library had it listed as out of stock, but their website also showed a sale price at $19.95 from $26.95/bottle.

Consequently, at an average price of $19.00, my investment has increased by ~50%, which I must admit, is much better than I have done in the stock market lately. So, I’m feeling good about the purchase. Of course, I didn’t buy the wine as an investment, but as Sherry-Lehmann has had my money since July 2006 (and the Bordelais have had Sherry-Lehmann’s money), I’m pleased to see that I wouldn’t have been any better off in investing my money elsewhere and buying the wine upon release instead.

Decanter did not include Chateau de Fonbel, of which we also bought a case, among its St.-Emilion tastings, but Wine Searcher and other internet searches yielded similar price increases for this and the other handful of bottles we purchased. I am looking forward to taking delivery of the wines in July, but will have to continue to wait to try them, or at least the Beaumont, for another few years, by which time the wines should have continued to increase in complexity, if not value. A wise investment indeed!

Booze on a Cruise

I recently took my first cruise vacation, which had some interesting experiences when it came to wine.

The wine list was an adequate mix of Old World and New World wine regions, with no particular strengths. However, we were a little surprised that there were no vintages listed with any of the wines. For some of the wines, we didn’t really care, but for others, we asked our server to confirm the vintage before placing our wine order. We surmised that this omission might be due to a need for flexibility in the ship’s inventory, but while it was annoying to have to ask, the information was correctly provided and there did not appear to be any deception going on.

Another surprise, but quite pleasant, was the fact that the ship used quality crystal stemware (Schott Zwiesel) for its wine service.

The mark-up appeared to be reasonable (we estimated it to be about double the retail price), especially considering that you are a captive audience; you can’t go elsewhere to buy wine. In fact, you can’t bring wine on-board. Your luggage is screened upon boarding and any alcoholic beverages will be seized until the cruise ends. I think that you might be able to pay a $25.00/bottle corkage fee to release your wine, but the policy does explicitly state that no alcoholic beverages may be brought onboard. 

On the second night of the cruise, we ordered two bottles of wine with dinner — one white and one red. At the end of dinner, neither bottle had been finished, but we were able to have the restaurant store our wine for us, with the ability to retrieve it at lunch or dinner, in any of the ship’s restaurants. This was a nice feature since there weren’t any half-bottles on the wine list.

We generally ordered wines in the $30-$50 range, but our one big splurge was a bottle of semi-mature Bordeaux, 1996 — our anniversary year– which we enjoyed on our night in the French cuisine specialty restaurant. It was probably not the wisest idea, but we got caught up in the sentimental moment. After our sixth bottle purchase, the seventh bottle, priced at or below the average price paid for the initial six wines, was free.

We had requested to see the ship’s wine cellar, but upon making an appointment to meet the beverage manager, were informed that the cruise line’s policy did not permit guests to visit the back-of-the-house areas. Consequently, we were unable to get information on turnover rates or on how the wine is stored with respect to countering the ship’s vibrations. However, I did find an interesting wine rack accessory product on the web — bottle retention straps — which the manufacturer touts as useful on cruise ships and in earthquake-prone areas.

Your WSET Study Buddy

I have received a number of inquiries from fellow WSET Diploma candidates about their studies. As I suspect that these students are not alone in their questions, I am sharing the following advice.

Unit 2 (Viticulture and Vinification) is the first unit presented and a prerequisite for moving ahead with the other units. Your knowledge on this unit is evaluated by a multiple-choice exam that is very challenging. You really need to study and prepare to recognize and understand detailed information to pass this exam as the answer choices provided do not lend themselves to easy guessing.

If possible, I would suggest that you take Unit 3 (Light Wines of the World) before Units 4, 5, and 6 so that you can complete this most challenging unit before moving on. Do NOT study for Unit 3 at the same time as you study for Units 4, 5 & 6 unless you are masochistic, unemployed or are just plain crazy : )

Units 4, 5 and 6 can be taken concurrently, although you may find it a little easier to balance your study load if you take only two of the three at the same time. Unit 4 (Spirits) is generally more challenging than Unit 5 (Sparkling) or Unit 6 (Fortified), but everyone has their own strengths and weaknesses. I think that it is helpful to keep in mind that these units differ from Unit 3 in that they focus heavily on differing production methods. If you take these exams in November, start studying in the summer to provide yourself with a lengthier study period.

The format for Unit 1 (Coursework Assignments) is being revised. If you are working under the previous format, I would suggest that you submit only one paper at first so that you can use the feedback provided from that paper to guide you in completing the other assignments.

As for hints, study aids, etc. , I suggest the following:
1) Review questions from all of the past exams (see WSET website – DWS student section) – this will familiarize you with the types of questions you will find on the exams and you can use them as practice questions while you study. These are essay exams, so you should also practice writing out answers under simulated exam conditions (closed book and timed).

2) Review the annual Examiner’s Report from past exams (see WSET website – DWS student section) – This will provide you with some idea as to what kind of an answer they are looking for, along with information on how to answer the tasting portion as well. This also helps you identify what traps to avoid as the Report comments on mistakes made by students, many of which are repeated time and again, much to the chagrin of the examiners.

3) Comparative taste as much as possible, preferrably under blind conditions. For example, I was a self-study student for Unit 6, so I purchased 8 different fortified wines and tasted them all blind in a single tasting session. The study guides have suggested wines with which you should become familiar.

4) Participate in the DAPS program if it is available to you (they will send you practice questions, which you answer under exam conditions and send back for feedback).

5) Review the questions and answers in the study guide – they just might show up on an exam.

6) If possible, find a study group and meet weekly to taste flights of wine as well as to review information, clarify points of confusion and keep you focused.

7) Commit the WSET Systematic Approach to Tasting to memory, so you make sure you comment on all aspects of the wine and don’t lose points on the exam. I would suggest that you take all of your wine notes in this fashion between now and then to practice, especially since you need to get this down to 5-10 minutes per wine.

8) Organize your notes on index cards and carry them with you whenever possible. You can then review your notes while waiting for elevators, commuting on public transportation, standing on line, etc.

9) Do not wait to the last minute to study. There is too much information, especially for Unit 3, so you really need to be studying and reviewing the material over several months.

10) When in doubt, always return to the 6 factors (climate, soil, annual weather, grape variety, viticulture and vinification) + legal & trade structures and market issues.

Super Picks for the Super Bowl

Like many football fans, you are probably gearing up for a great grid iron contest on Super Bowl Sunday. Whether you are hosting the whole gang or heading out to a friend’s, as a wine enthusiast, you may be wondering what wines to serve with typical, game-day fare. While several wines might be up to the challenge, a few seem especially suited for the big day.

This is obviously not the time to break out your vintage Bordeaux or other fine wines, but inexpensive wines with straightforward, simple flavors that lend themselves to casual food will work well. One choice might be the nutty aromas and flavors of a Fino Sherry. These wines are a perfect counterpart to the salty olives, almonds and tapas enjoyed in Spain’s tapas bars and can be an equally fine match for your salty snacks and chips and dips.

To complement more substantial fare, throwing in a fruit bomb wine may be just the ticket for drinking with heros, wings and barbecue. For example, the bold, explosive fruit-forward cherry and berry flavors of nearly any Australian Shiraz would work wonderfully as would a Zinfandel. With pizza and other Italian fare, the quintessential match is a nice Chianti, but if Asian or spicy foods are on the menu, the aromatic floral, citrus and peach notes of Rieslings are a natural choice to pair with them. However, heavily tannic wines should be avoided as the tannin will intensify the effect of the heat in your mouth. 

Finally, the freshness and slight effervescence of a Portugese Vino Verde could also serve as an excellent foil for most of these food choices. These lower alcohol wines are terrific for quaffing, especially if the game goes into overtime. Whichever wine you choose, gather together with good friends, cheer on your favorite team and enjoy the game. 

And the envelope please…

I returned home from vacation this weekend and found an evelope from the Interantional Wine Center waiting for me among all of the snail mail. It contained the results from my Unit 6 exam taken in November 2007 and revealed that I had Passed with Merit. This was my final exam for the WSET Diploma of Wine and Spirits credential.

However, before I can be completely done, I need to submit two more research papers for Unit 1. The papers, known as Coursework Assignments, are written on given topics and specifications and can be submitted in November or April. In May, the new set of topics is posted to the WSET website.

I spent the week between Christmas and New Year’s working on these two remaining papers, finishing one on Champagne Supply and Demand and the other on the Cooperatives in the Wine Industry. As they are not officially due until April, I will wait until March to see if they need any additional revisions based on current events and will then send them to the International Wine Center. I anticipate receipt of those scores in June or July, which, presuming that I successfully Pass both assignments, will be accompanied by notification of my achievement of the DWS credential.

In the meantime, I need to spend time studying my varietal identification in anticipation of an April test date for my re-take of that section of the CWE exam.

Wines of South Africa

I submitted an entry for the Wines of South Africa (WOSA) Wine Professional Competition in October, which consisted of a wine and food pairing suggestion, along with an essay. Unfortunately, I didn’t win, but as I was proud of my essay entry, I am posting it here.

Today, there are more than 60 countries producing wine worldwide, most of which export their wines globally. With this increased globalization, current wine consumers have access to wines from around the corner to those from across the globe and have greater diversity in that selection. Included among this diversity is the emergence of South Africa as a growing wine producing country. While South Africa has only recently entered the global wine market after decades of isolation during apartheid, it has taken the market by storm, presently ranking 9th in overall production, by volume.

In this proliferation of wine production, wines are frequently assigned to one of two categories – Old World (generally those produced in Europe) or New World (namely the U.S, Chile, Argentina, New Zealand and Australia). Yet, South Africa defies this simple categorization, instead straddling the wine world with both Old World sentimentality and a New World sensibility in the creation of its wines. With this blended approach, South African wines possess a unique character that differentiates them from other wines in the worldwide market.

In fact, despite its recent arrival on the wine scene, its roots, literally those of its vines, go back to the Dutch East India Company, which, sought to establish a water route to India in search of spices and other exotic merchandise. For the Dutch, South Africa proved to be a good way station for ships en route to India, which necessitated the cultivation of grapes to make the requisite beverage of the day, wine. Accordingly, South Africa has a long history and tradition of viticulture. This history and tradition has been both a starting point and a point of departure, serving to guide winemakers in their quest for quality. Steeped in history, the first vines were cultivated in Constantia, just outside of Cape Town. This area was the birthplace of the famed Vin de Constance, which was coveted by Napolean during his exile and has recently been revived by producer Groot Constantia. With such historic origins, the Dutch influence can be seen throughout the regions with many of the wineries featuring classic Dutch architecture and Dutch names abound.

Additionally, given its European heritage, the wines of South Africa make extensive use of classic grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay. In this regard, many of the South African wines are balanced in structure with vibrant fruit, but marked by a more restrained use of fruit and an overall elegance, similar to "Old World" wines hailing from Europe (notably Italy, France, Spain and Germany).

However, the South African tradition of vititculture is not as restrictive as it is for their European counterparts. For example, one of South Africa’s signature wines is the Cape Blend. The Cape Blend is a true merging of tradition and modernity. Modeled after the time-honored Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and/or Petit Verdot, South African winemakers substitute their indigenous grape, Pinotage, for one of these grapes to produce their own distinctive interpretation of these multi-varietal wines.

Further, South African winemakers are not bound by the rules and regulations that often tie the hands of their French, Italian and Spanish colleagues. Accordingly, South African producers have the freedom and flexibility to grow what they want, how they want to and where they want to. For some, this means producing a Syrah similar in style to those produced in France’s Rhone Valley, while for others, it means a bolder Australian-style, which will likely be labeled as Shiraz to connote this stylistic difference to the consumer.

Similarly, South Africa’s Wine of Origin scheme puts strong emphasis on place of grape origin, as does Europe’s appellation system, but unlike this system, also permits varietal labeling, making the wines familiar and easily recognizable on the wine shop’s shelf. These wines are also accessible to consumers in that they are ready to be consumed upon purchase rather than requiring several years of maturity to be enjoyed.

Some of this hybrid approach to wine production can be attributed to the South African climate, which provides sufficient sun and warmth to fully ripen the grapes, which differs from many areas of Europe. This means that wines can be full in their fruit flavors, particularly those from warmer, more inland regions such as the Breede River Valley. However, for the coastal regions, the cool Benguela current, which blows off the ocean, tempers the heat and prevents the grapes from becoming too baked, ensuring elegance and complexity in the wines.

Consequently, the wines of South Africa represent significant diversity in permitting consumers to find wines in a multitude of styles from the fruit-forward New World style to more restrained Old World renditions. They also represent tremendous value in the marketplace; with many high quality South African wines available at the $20.00 and under price point, they are affordable options for everyday drinking. Overall, while South Africa’s Old World heritage serves as an important influence, this point of view is also informed by New World wine production, conspiring to produce wines that are well balanced and perfect for today’s wine consumer.

CWE: Two out of three

I arrived home one evening last week to find an envelope from the Society of Wine Educators waiting for me, a little earlier than expected. I opened it up for my results from the Certified Wine Educator exam taken in early November.

I fared well on the multiple-choice, correctly answering 75 of the 85 questions and aced the essay, scoring 14 of the 15 points. Consequently, I earned an 89% on the theory portion of the exam. I passed the faults identification, missing only two of the eight samples. However, as I had feared, I failed the blind tasting, which has never been my strength.

While I have obviously not earned the CWE credential, the two passes will remain and I only have to successfully re-take the blind tasting to complete it. I have not yet identified a test date as it is not being given in NYC and most of the scheduled cities aren’t particularly easy to get to and/or get around in. The most likely option is Providence, RI in April as Amtrak goes to Providence and the test site appears to be only 4 miles from the train station. According to the the current Amtrak schedule, I might even be able to go up and back on the same day, saving the expense of a hotel room.

In the meantime, of course, I have a lot of studying to do. But, fortunately, studying for the blind tasting is a lot more fun than studying for the theory portion.