Customers who drink Barolo also bought…

As you may have heard, Amazon.com is poised to enter the online wine world with a launch slated for October. The company is presently in discussion with various wineries, including many from the Napa Valley, to sign up to participate. The Napa Valley Vintners organization has been presenting seminars to assist their members with this process.

Amazon plans to sell wine to consumers in 26 states, given the legal restrictions for shipping wine in the others. In this regard, they have partnered with New Vine Logistics, which has wine shipping expertise, to fulfill orders.

Further along the fulfillment issue are the shipping & handling charges. I generally purchase wine online through local retailers, thus avoiding shipping charges. However, Amazon has stated that it will waive shipping charges if customers participate in their Amazon Prime program, which costs $79.00 annually. This benefit is a huge savings for consumers given the high expenses usually associated with shipping wine due its weight and neccessity to use particular carriers to ensure compliance with interstate shipping laws. E-tailer Wine.com charges a base rate of $9.95 plus $1.25/bottle, making the shipping expense for a case of wine $24.95.

Amazon’s suggestions as to which products a consumer may also like based on their current selection may not work in the wine sector as people’s taste preferences are so varied. But, perhaps it may nudge consumers to try new wines they might not buy otherwise.

Currently, online wine sales account for only 7% of the $2.8 billion in retail wine sales. With Amazon as the largest global online retailer, it will be interesting to watch whether these statistics increase dramatically as a result of their market participation.

Dancing Bear Cellars -addendum and apology

In my post yesterday, I wrote about a California port wine that I had tasted at the Dancing Bear Cellars’ tasting event. I made a snide comment about the wine being labeled as "Port" despite it not being from Portugal. It is a pet peeve of mine for wines to be labeled with geographically specific names when that does not reflect their true origin, i.e. the term Champagne used on sparkling wines produced anywhere other than the Champagne region in France. Thus, I would have preferred the wine in question to be labeled California Fortified Wine and not California Port.

While my attempt at humor did not go over well, it was never my intention to mislead or misinform, nor was it to cast aspersions on anyone or their integrity. I apologize for these unintended consequences and wish to state publicly that everyone I have met in connection with Dancing Bear Cellars has been both ethical and knowledgeable about their wines (and I presume everything else in their lives), most especially Susannah Gold, whom I have known for the past two+ years. Mea Culpe.

To set the record straight:

The Meyer Family California Port is produced from old-vine Zinfandel grapes, which are initially fermented as with any wine. Before all of the sugar from the grapes has been converted into alcohol, the fermentation is brought to a halt by the addition of a grape spirit (in this case, a Pot-Still Alembic Zinfandel Brandy). The wine is then blended and aged in a modified solera method. The solera method, which is primarily used for Sherries, is a process of aging and fractional blending by which younger wines are fractionally blended with older wines and the older wines blended with still older wines, until the wine is sufficiently matured. This wine has an averages of 8 years of aging prior to being bottled and sold.

The issue of labeling is an important one, so much so that wine regions around the world are banding together to help protect their place names from being misappropriated, including Napa Valley, Champagne, Sherry and Port. The Center for Wine Origins has been instrumental in bringing this issue to the attention of consumers, as well as working to get legislation passed to more formally protect these names, not only in the U.S., but globally.

Certainly, the Meyer Family port is not the only wine out in the marketplace using the semi-generic term Port, which I believe is no longer legal for new labels seeking approval from the U.S. government. Nor do I mean to vilify the wine itself (it was actually quite good). However, as a wine educator, I do think that it is important that I inform people about this issue so that they can better understand the importance of location/origin in winemaking. I just need to do it less snidely.

While I do not know the Meyer family personally, they are the founders and former owners of the highly regarded Silver Oak Cellars, and established Meyer Family Cellars in 1987. Silver Oak Cellars produces two specific wines — an Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, underscoring the importance of appellation and grape origin. Accordingly, it is somewhat surprising that they would continue to use Port on their labels, but they may find that consumers don’t understand the meaning of "fortified wine," but do recognize "port." I would suggest that as we are an emerging nation in terms of our wine consumption, we need to do a better job in educating consumers, rather than catering to them, but then, I am not in the business of selling wine.

It’s Tasting Season

It seems that the start of the school year is also the start of distributor and importer tasting events. This week alone, there were four events (of which I know). I was supposed to taste the portfolios of Vias Imports and Martin Scott on Monday, but my attention was directed elsewhere. However, I did get to both Dancing Bear Cellars and Selection Pas Mal yesterday.

Dancing Bear Cellars (DBC) hosted their Fall tasting at Primehouse restaurant, which has a nice private room in the back and made for an intimate tasting. Dancing Bear Cellars is owned by Eric Munson, a former investment manager, who launched the business in the wake of September 11, having lost two brothers-in law that day. Realizing that life should be celebrated, Munson followed his passion for wine and has built up a portfolio, which leans heavily, though not exclusively, toward Italian wines. My colleague and former study group member, Susannah Gold, was actively involved in the event planning and it was nice to see her after a long absence.

Always the gracious hostess, Susannah made sure to introduce me to her DBC colleagues as well as to her mother and her friend Lynne. In addition to a career in public relations, Lynne maintains a wine-oriented t-shirt venture, glasshalfull. Lynne and I had a lot in common, aside from being neighbors, and struck up a lengthy conversation during which an unusual occurance ensued. It seems that our dialogue became too much for one of our fellow tasters who admonished us to quiet down and/or step away from the tables. Perhaps she is a former librarian?

The majority of wines I tasted at DBC, and I tasted quite a few, were very nice with some that were rather outstanding. I was particularly impressed with the proprietary-labeled Prosecco, which was full of rich, ripe fruit, while still being a dry wine. As a Franc fan, I really enjoyed the Napa Redwoods Estate, Alden Perry Reserve, 2002, from Mount Veeder. And, was pleased to be introduced to the Patricius Tokaji Furmint 2006. This Hungarian wine, which would pair nicely with food, shows that Tokaji can also produce wonderful, dry wines. But, the real standouts were the wines from Gianni Voerzio, which included a Barbera d’Alba "Ciabot della Luna" 2004; Langhe Nebbiolo "Ciabot della Luna" 2003; and Baroloa La Serra, 2001, all from Piedmont, Italy.

Before leaving the event, Susannah was adamant that I try the two dessert wines on offer — a Port and a Tokaji Aszu (also from Patricius). While both were lovely in their own manner, the "Port" was apparently from the part of California that is located in the Douro Valley. I know, I know, not nice, but it’s a particular pet peeve. 

I then headed uptown to Bar Boulud for the Selection Pas Mal tasting, thanks to a tip from colleague Eileen Duffy who was also at the DBC event. Selection Pas Mal, which literally translates to Not Bad Selection (more likely it is a French idiom), is an importer for Becky Wasserman Selection. Ms. Wasserman has the enviable position of being an American in Burgundy and focuses her selections on small domaines and shippers. In addition to Burgundies, the Selection Pas Mal wines featured a wide range of Champagnes, which were presented by subregion, emphasizing the individual terroirs. I hastily tasted through the Champagnes from Jose Dhondt and must admit that there wasn’t a bad one in the bunch. I was particularly struck by their Rose Saignee NV.

I moved on to the still wines, tasting several Bourgogne blancs, aka French Chardonnay, including a lively Savigny Les Beaune Blanc from the famed 2005 vintage and produced by Domaine Jean-Marc Pavelot. If I had not already ordered a selection of 2005 Burgundies, I would have added this one to the list. Fortunately for my pocketbook, I was not as enamored by a Corton Blanc Grand Cru 2004 (from Domaine du Comte Senard) as I expected to be, but I am very appreciative of the opportunity to taste it.

Siezing the opportunity further, I next tasted several red Burgundies, again enjoying a Savigny Les Beaune from Pavelot — this time in red (Pinot Noir), the "Les Guettes" 2005. I also liked Senard’s Corton Clos du Roi 2005, which is definitely one for the cellar. Shifting from Cote de Beaune to the Cote de Nuits, I tasted a number of lovely wines from Domaine Dominique Mugneret and Domaine Lamarche, including their Echezeaux Grand Crus, knowing that my budget doesn’t allow me to do so otherwise. Among my final tastes, I tried the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru "Groseille" 2005 from Domaine DiGioia-Royer, of which only 40 cases were made. I felt honored to be able to taste these wines, especially given their quality and rarity; it was truly a wonderful learning experience.

Riesling Championed

As you may have seen in the press, the International Riesling Foundation (IRF), headed up by Jim Tresize, also of the NY Grape and Wine Foundation, has spearheaded a new initiative to assist consumers with better identifying the wine style of a particular Riesling prior to purchase. Journalist Dan Berger is credited with leading the charge on this initiative.

Riesling is among the fastest growing wines, second to Pinot Noir, but many consumers seem to be confused or at least tunnel-visioned into thinking that Riesling is only a sweet wine. As this is not the case, the IRF wants to label Rieslings according to one of four categories: Dry, Medium Dry, Medium Sweet and Sweet.

This is a voluntary program for wine producers, with each category having scientific criteria assigned to it, based upon residual sugar, pH and acidity levels. Producers who wish to participate may choose among several logos, which have been designed to fit several different label formats, particularly for back labels.

As a wine educator, I think that yet another label will be a hindrance rather than helpful to consumers. It strikes me as dumbing things down to bring wine to a lower common denominator. Instead, I think it is important for wine educators, sommeliers, wine shop associates and others to educate consumers on the spot as to a wine’s attributes. Those consumers wishing to learn more, can begin to unravel the mysteries of German wine labels and terms such as Kabinett, Spatlese and Auslese. Moreover, these terms already stem from scientific criteria at least in terms of minimum must weights, so it would seem that the new program will create an additional item on the label for the consumer to interpret.

Additionally, I think that the category terms themselves might be somewhat subjective. While they are based on wine data, can one accurately describe the differential between a Medium Dry and a Medium Sweet wine? Without actually tasting a wine, would a consumer know whether s/he preferred a Medium Dry wine to a Medium Sweet one? Maybe Dry, Medium and Sweet would have been a better approach — less ambiguity perhaps?

Obviously, the goal is to sell more Riesling, but I’m not sure that this is the right way to do it.

School’s Back in Session: A Return Trip to Terroir

With the start of the new semester underway, I met up with several of my colleagues from my previous employer. Prior to my departure, a few of us had started meeting up at a wine bar to hang out and discuss higher education issues. However, the impetus for our initial get-togethers was the trip I took to Kansas City, MO with two colleagues. On that trip, I had dined out with Maureen and Mijin, who both enjoyed the mini wine lessons I provided to them during the meal. Upon our arrival home, they asked if we could continue to meet up and talk about wine, to which I agreed. Thus began our impromptu group.

We made these plans several weeks ago and I had suggested that we meet at Terroir, since, at the time, I had not been there yet. In the intervening weeks, I actually went to Terroir with a wine colleague, but chose not to alter my plans with my friends.

Despite the September date, it was still the Summer of Riesling, but given the heat and humidity I was happy to select such a white. As it was just 5:00 PM, I was able to take advantage of the Happy Hour special and ordered the German Riesling of the two listed Rieslings from the Happy Hour menu. However, when the server began to pour the wine, I noticed that the bottle was not German and halted his pouring. Fortunately, the practice at Terroir is to pour a small amount for guests to taste before a full glass is poured, so only a little bit of wine was wasted.

The server went back behind the bar to retrieve the correct bottle of wine, but could not locate it. Accordingly, he offered me a similar German Riesling in its place, at the same $6.00 price. I tasted the wine and agreed to the substitution.

My friends arrived a short time later and solicited the server’s help to select one of the three red wines on the Happy Hour menuk, all of which were Spanish Monastrells (aka Mourvedre), but from different regions within Spain. He suggested the medium-bodied wine, which they both tasted and enjoyed. A third friend arrived somewhat later and joined in with a glass of the same. Around this point in the evening, I was ready for a second glass and ordered a taste of the Chinon, having tasted from my colleague’s glass back in August. It was as lovely as I remembered. And, again, I was very impressed with the servers’ knowledge of wine both through my direct interaction and what I overheard with other patrons.

We left the bar around 7:30/8:00 by which time there were several people waiting for our seats and a few more hanging out outside. It was quite a contrast to my initial arrival when I was the only one in the place. Clearly, the bar is well received and is doing brisk business.

While we spent a lot of time talking about wine, particularly in terms of my ventures in it since they last saw me, I didn’t actually do any "teaching." So, school may be back in session, but the students haven’t quite shown up just yet. 😉

On the mountain top

As noted previously, early Tuesday morning of my visit to the Napa Valley, we drove up to Cain 5 to learn more about Napa’s appellations and climate. Cain 5 is located in the Spring Mountain AVA and is reached by driving a steep and windy road for several miles. Fortunately, the view and the wines are well worth the effort. We spent the initial moments of our visit with a walk out to the vineyards to watch the fog roll in (see previous post). Afterward, Chris Howell of Cain and Dawnine Dyer from Dyer Vineyard presented key information before we adjourned to the beautifully appointed tasting room.

Here, we had the unique opportunity to taste a flight of wines from the various Napa mountain sub-appellations (Spring Mountain, Diamond Mountain, Howell Mountain –no relation to Chris, as far as I am aware, Mount Veeder and Atlas Peak). I say unique because plantings on the mountains and hillsides have come under much scrutiny with regard to land preservation and accordingly, it is unlikely that additional vines will make their home in these appellations. Consequently, many of the mountain appellation wines are made in small quantities and sport high prices. The wines we tasted ranged from $54/bottle (Krupp Brothers Estates) to $200/bottle (Lokoya) and also included La Jota, Ladera, Spring Mountain Vineyards, Brandlin and our hosts, Dyer and Cain.

High above the Valley floor, these AVAs share climatic similarities that their lower elevation counterparts. More specifically, the mountain appellations are above the fog, which rolls in every morning and thus, these grapes receive more sunlight and a warmer overnight temperature. The result of these conditions are wines with a darkness and intensity to them — dark cherries — and tannins that are well polished. The most planted grape in these areas tends to be Cabernet Sauvignon and similarly, Bordeaux-style blends, in which Cabernet Sauvignon plays a significant role. However, we did taste a Syrah, as well.

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The Fog Rolls In

At 7:30 AM on Tuesday morning of my visit to the Napa Valley, we drove up to Cain 5 to learn more about Napa’s appellations and climate, followed by a tasting of wines from the mountain AVAs (which will be discussed in a future post).

Among the most memorable moments of the trip, we walked out to the vineyards for an incredible demonstration of what makes the Napa Valley’s climate so special. As we walked, the vista opened up and we could see both down the Valley and up the Valley. Then suddenly we saw it, it being the fog, hanging just below us and streaming up into the Valley with some speed.

The photographs should provide a good visual, but why does the fog roll in and where does it come from? Situated beneath the mountains, the Napa Valley is bounded on both sides with the Mayacamas range to the West and the Vaca range to the East. Moreover, the Napa Valley sits to the west of the hot and dry climate of the San Joaquin Valley (aka Central Valley), where much of California’s bulk wine is produced. The high heat from the Central Valley draws the cool air and moisture from the Pacific Ocean into the San Francisco Bay and then up the Napa Valley, cooling the area as it rolls in. This marine influence has differing results as one works their way up the 30-mile long Valley, finding a difference of as much as 1oF degree/mile, with the Southern end (Carneros) being cooler and experiencing increased rainfall when compared to the Northern end (Calistoga).

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Down & Dirty in the Vineyard – PM installment

Napa_vintners_070 As the morning in the vineyard with Todd wore on, it was time to turn our attention off Chardonnay and onto the red grapes. With the exception of Pinot Noir intended for sparkling wines, these grapes still had time to hang out on the vines. Our first stop was a vineyard near the Frank Family propery, where the owner grew Pinot Noir, which Todd purchased. The fruit was looking good and the owner noted that he and his wife would be dropping the green bunches in the next day or so.

Leaving Pinot Noir behind, we drove north and into the AVA of Rutherford, checking out Cabernet Sauvignon grapes being grown on the Valley floor. These grapes were quite large and deep in color, but it was evident upon tasting them that the tannins were underripe and the seeds provided further evidence. The vines themselves were quite bushy and it was expected that some additional leaf thinning would be needed to ensure that the grapes would achieve full ripeness.

Napa_vintners_073 Our final vineyard stop was a hillside vineyard called Winston Hill. Also in the Rutherford AVA, Winston Hill is located on the hillside of the Vaca mountain range, providing exquisite views of the Napa Valley and, more importantly, high quality Cabernet Sauvignon fruit for the Frank Family Vineyards flagship wine of the same name. A small amount of Sangiovese is also grown here.

After spending the day getting down, but fortunately not too dirty, in the vineyards, Brad and I had learned so much about viticulture and its partnership with winemaking. It was clear that the winemaker must be keenly involved in the day to day vineyard management to ensure that the grape that arrives at the cellar door is the fruit he or she wants. Furthermore, key decisions such as when to pick require careful consideration and can ultimately affect the quality of the finished wine.Napa_vintners_079

Luckily for us, Todd knows what he is doing on this front, as evidenced by the quality of the Frank Family Vineyards’ wines, which was had the opportunity to taste over lunch. Sitting outside on the VIP porch of their tasting house, we first sampled the 1997 vintage Brut sparkler produced from a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, which was showing beautifully. We next tried the Reserve Chardonnay before switching to the red wines — Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Winston Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Zinfandel. Needless to say, we were a bit late getting back for the afternoon’s lecture on sustainable agriculture, but, when it comes to learning, nothing beats hands-on experience.

Down & Dirty in the Vineyard – AM installment

Napa_vintners_048 As noted, I spent a week participating in the Napa Valley Vintners’ Wine Educators Academy in August 2008. It was a magical experience due in large part to our exposure with the vintners themselves.

On Wednesday morning of the week in question, all participants were to be ready and waiting in the hotel lobby at 7:30 AM (yes, you read that correctly — an early morning meeting). As vintners arrived, they pulled a name or names out of a hat (well, actually out of a ziploc bag, but you get the point) and thus, we were paired with vintners for the day.

My colleague Brad and I had the good fortune to be matched with Todd Graff of Frank Family Vineyards. Todd is a Valley veteran, having grown up in the neighboring county of Sonoma and working for a number of other Napa Valley wineries before taking the helm at Frank Family. With a degree from UC Davis, Todd is formally trained as a vintner and also spent time abroad, further adding to his wealth of wine knowledge. We were delighted to spend the day with Todd.

We began the morning with a visit to Carneros, the most southerly of the sub-appellations within the Napa Valley AVA. Carneros is interesting for a number of reasons, it spans both the Napa and Sonoma Valleys; and it is the coolest, being also the closest to the San Francisco Bay. Given this climatic condition, Carneros is known for producing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as both still and sparkling wines.

On this day in particular, Todd wanted to determine whether or not the Chardonnay grapes destined for his sparkling wine were ready for harvesting. Consequently, we assisted him in collecting data to make his decision. First, we tasted the grapes to check for overall sugar and acidity levels as well as phenolic compounds and flavors. For sparkling wines, you want to preserve the bright acidity and avoid overly ripe grapes, so they should taste a little underdone.

Napa_vintners_058Brad used the refractometer (a device used to measure the sugar levels in grapes), adding a grape and checking its Brix every so often. Meanwhile, I carried a bucket, lined with a plastic bag, into which Todd cut off random clusters of grapes, making a zip-zag motion as he traveled down the rows. These grapes would provide a good overview given that we were picking from different sides of canopy, and thus, different sun exposures, to get a more comprehensive view of what was going on in the vineyard.

Later, upon our return to the winery itself, located in Calistoga, Todd dropped off the grape clusters with one of his colleagues in her lab. She then proceeded to crush and press the grapes to force them to give up their juice, which was then inserted into a high-tech machine to obtain more complex and formal readings on the grapes. The results of the test indicated that the grapes were near peak for sparkling wine and would be picked later in the week.

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Yes, they do grow grapes in North Carolina

In fact, they grow grapes in every state of the U.S. They even make wine there, too. Of course, I’m not running out to secure my allocation of Alaskan wine, but it is nice to know that there is a burgeoning wine region in all 50 states.

Given the diversity of our statutory climates, vitis vinifera, the European species of grape, is not the only progenitor of American wines. In many states, it is joined by the indigenous vitis labrusca, which thrives in the cold winters and thus survives more easily in cooler climates and at higher altitudes. Hybrids, those grape varieties created from a vinifera parent crossed with a labrusca one, also do quite well.

Elsewhere we find wine produced from FOTG — fruit other than grapes. Since all you need to produce "wine" is sugar and yeast, the sugar from any fruit will do. Hence, we have pineapple wine in Hawaii, cranberry wine in New Jersey and blueberry wine from Maine. I’ve even tasted wine made from carrots in Florida — don’t ask : )

At the Long Island Wine Symposium held earlier this month, I had the opportunity to make the acquaintence of Lucien Wilkins from North Carolina. A retired physician and current real estate developer, Lucien is owner of Spencer Mountain Vineyards, where he planted 1,000 vines last year in the mountains of Boone, NC, coincidently only one week prior to our own planting. With Sauvignon Blanc as his vinifera pick, Lucien also planted hybrids Seyval Blanc and Marechal Foch in his vineyard. And he is not alone. Today, , there are more than 350 vineyards and 70 wineries in the state.

A member of a fledgling wine region, Wilkins is determined to see his area succeed. To that end, they recently established the High Country Winegrowers Association, which held its first meeting in July of this year. The meeting was held in the wake of a study on wine tourism issued by Appalacian State University on behalf of the NC Wine & Grape Council. In this vein, Lucien mentioned plans for a collaborative venture featuring a microwinery, microbrewery, organic garden and artisan coffee roaster. I questioned whether the wine and beer yeasts might co-mingle and wreak havoc on the other’s fermentation process, but that’s a discussion for another day. For now, we’ll just wait for Lucien’s grapes to grow.