Grand Cru Grapevine: More than Manichewitz (April 2009)

With Passover just ahead, many people might turn their thoughts to Kosher wines, so this month we explore some great alternatives to the usual plonk. It should be noted that these wines don’t need to be restricted to those who keep Kosher as they are wonderful wines in their own right and can just as easily grace the table for Easter, Tax Day or any other time.

Looking ahead for Grand Cru Classes, we will be launching our public classes next month, with the first class scheduled for Sunday, May 3, 2009, kicking off with our popular From Vine to Wine class at 2:00 PM. You can browse our full events listing or navigate using the calendar on the right side of our site. You may wish to note that, in recognition of the imperfect economy, we will be maintaining our 2008 prices for the 2009 season.

Among other exciting news, Tracy has been named the NY Wine Shopping Examiner for Examiner.com, which is currently the #285 website worldwide. She will be writing her column at least four times a week, on all things wine and retail related – secret shopper expeditions, event announcements, sniffing out sales and testing tools. Suggestions and ideas for articles are always welcome!

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

MORE THAN MANACHEWITZ

Unless one is an observant Jew, the choice of a Kosher wine doesn’t spring to mind except for once a year – Passover, which begins April 8th. F or years, Kosher wines had a deservedly bad reputation. Generally, one was stuck with the sickeningly sweet, Manichewitz Concord wine. But, fortunately, times have changed and many new Kosher wines have emerged as high quality wines that just happen to be Kosher. In fact, there is much more than Manichewitz showing up on retail shelves and they are definitely not wines that should be passed over.

Intuitively, people think of Israel when they think of Kosher wines, but this is a needlessly limited view. Rather, Kosher wines are being produced around the world from Australia and Chile to France and Italy. Regardless of where the wine is from, in order to be Kosher, the wine must be produced in accordance with Jewish dietary and other laws. Most specifically, Kosher wines must not be made with any animal products. For example, some wineries use egg whites to fine their wines, but as egg whites are a product of chickens, other fining agents, such as Bentonite, must be employed instead. 

In addition, the wine must be made under rabbinical supervision and handled solely by Sabbath-observing Jews throughout the entire winemaking process through to the point of service. In order to get around this latter point given the logistical issues it creates, some Kosher wines are heated to 185oF permitting non-Jews (or less observant Jews for that matter) to handle the wine without voiding it of its Kosher status. These wines are referred to as meshuval, which is the Hebrew word for cooked. Newer technology reduces the high heat exposure and consequently, is less likely to negatively impact the wine, as it had in the past, especially as this is frequently done prior to fermentation. Accordingly, today’s Kosher wines are indistinguishable from non-Kosher wines when it comes to the taste.

Tasting Notes

Covenant Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Napa Valley, CA (USA), $100.00
This is certainly a far cry from Concord Grape and if you choose to serve or bring this wine to a seder, please invite me! With grapes sourced from a rocky, three-acre parcel of land within the acclaimed Larkmead Vineyard, this wine has meaty, smoke, oak and black fruit aromas. On the palate, it provides medium acidity and full body, with well-integrated tannins and notes of blackberry, cherry, smoke and an undercurrent of cocoa in the long finish. 

Beckett’s Flat Five Stones, Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2007, Margaret River, Australia, $18.00
A boutique winery in Western Australia, Beckett’s Flat has been producing Kosher wines since 1998. This wine emulates white Bordeaux with its blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon. With nice, vibrant acidity, the wine displays cut grass, lime and grapefruit on the palate. It has long length. 

Abarbanel Riesling 2004, Alsace, France, $22.00 (Meshuval)
This is the only kosher Alsatian Riesling imported to the United States. It is a classic Riesling with tropical fruit and honey aromas on the nose. On the palate, it is dry with high acidity and flavors of citrus, honey and minerality. 

Layla Pinot Noir 2006, Mendoza, Argentina, $14.00 (Meshuval)
The grapes are sourced from the highly prized Luján de Cuyo sub-appellation of Mendoza. Showing strawberry notes on the nose, the wine is dry, with bright acidity. It provides flavors of tart berries with an earthiness in the finish.
NB: While not as food friendly for a seder as the Pinot Noir will be, Layla also produces a Malbec that is very good, with a pronounced nose of black fruit and wet leaves, which give way to raspberry and earth on the palate (also $14.00). 

Efrat Israeli Series Merlot 2007, Israel $12.00 (Meshuval)
Established in 1967, Efrat has been producing wine for over 40 years. It has aromas of cherry and a cola note. This dry wine has medium+ acidity and medium tannins. It displays notes of cherry, cola, and oak, followed by a hint of spice in the long finish.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.