It’s Tasting Season

It seems that the start of the school year is also the start of distributor and importer tasting events. This week alone, there were four events (of which I know). I was supposed to taste the portfolios of Vias Imports and Martin Scott on Monday, but my attention was directed elsewhere. However, I did get to both Dancing Bear Cellars and Selection Pas Mal yesterday.

Dancing Bear Cellars (DBC) hosted their Fall tasting at Primehouse restaurant, which has a nice private room in the back and made for an intimate tasting. Dancing Bear Cellars is owned by Eric Munson, a former investment manager, who launched the business in the wake of September 11, having lost two brothers-in law that day. Realizing that life should be celebrated, Munson followed his passion for wine and has built up a portfolio, which leans heavily, though not exclusively, toward Italian wines. My colleague and former study group member, Susannah Gold, was actively involved in the event planning and it was nice to see her after a long absence.

Always the gracious hostess, Susannah made sure to introduce me to her DBC colleagues as well as to her mother and her friend Lynne. In addition to a career in public relations, Lynne maintains a wine-oriented t-shirt venture, glasshalfull. Lynne and I had a lot in common, aside from being neighbors, and struck up a lengthy conversation during which an unusual occurance ensued. It seems that our dialogue became too much for one of our fellow tasters who admonished us to quiet down and/or step away from the tables. Perhaps she is a former librarian?

The majority of wines I tasted at DBC, and I tasted quite a few, were very nice with some that were rather outstanding. I was particularly impressed with the proprietary-labeled Prosecco, which was full of rich, ripe fruit, while still being a dry wine. As a Franc fan, I really enjoyed the Napa Redwoods Estate, Alden Perry Reserve, 2002, from Mount Veeder. And, was pleased to be introduced to the Patricius Tokaji Furmint 2006. This Hungarian wine, which would pair nicely with food, shows that Tokaji can also produce wonderful, dry wines. But, the real standouts were the wines from Gianni Voerzio, which included a Barbera d’Alba "Ciabot della Luna" 2004; Langhe Nebbiolo "Ciabot della Luna" 2003; and Baroloa La Serra, 2001, all from Piedmont, Italy.

Before leaving the event, Susannah was adamant that I try the two dessert wines on offer — a Port and a Tokaji Aszu (also from Patricius). While both were lovely in their own manner, the "Port" was apparently from the part of California that is located in the Douro Valley. I know, I know, not nice, but it’s a particular pet peeve. 

I then headed uptown to Bar Boulud for the Selection Pas Mal tasting, thanks to a tip from colleague Eileen Duffy who was also at the DBC event. Selection Pas Mal, which literally translates to Not Bad Selection (more likely it is a French idiom), is an importer for Becky Wasserman Selection. Ms. Wasserman has the enviable position of being an American in Burgundy and focuses her selections on small domaines and shippers. In addition to Burgundies, the Selection Pas Mal wines featured a wide range of Champagnes, which were presented by subregion, emphasizing the individual terroirs. I hastily tasted through the Champagnes from Jose Dhondt and must admit that there wasn’t a bad one in the bunch. I was particularly struck by their Rose Saignee NV.

I moved on to the still wines, tasting several Bourgogne blancs, aka French Chardonnay, including a lively Savigny Les Beaune Blanc from the famed 2005 vintage and produced by Domaine Jean-Marc Pavelot. If I had not already ordered a selection of 2005 Burgundies, I would have added this one to the list. Fortunately for my pocketbook, I was not as enamored by a Corton Blanc Grand Cru 2004 (from Domaine du Comte Senard) as I expected to be, but I am very appreciative of the opportunity to taste it.

Siezing the opportunity further, I next tasted several red Burgundies, again enjoying a Savigny Les Beaune from Pavelot — this time in red (Pinot Noir), the "Les Guettes" 2005. I also liked Senard’s Corton Clos du Roi 2005, which is definitely one for the cellar. Shifting from Cote de Beaune to the Cote de Nuits, I tasted a number of lovely wines from Domaine Dominique Mugneret and Domaine Lamarche, including their Echezeaux Grand Crus, knowing that my budget doesn’t allow me to do so otherwise. Among my final tastes, I tried the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru "Groseille" 2005 from Domaine DiGioia-Royer, of which only 40 cases were made. I felt honored to be able to taste these wines, especially given their quality and rarity; it was truly a wonderful learning experience.

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