Winter is in full swing and, unfortunately, the groundhog did not provide us with any good news this week. But, we can take heart that our imperative to stay inside is a good excuse to curl up with a good glass of wine.
As a reminder, we will once again host the Society of Wine Educators’ Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) Exam on April 10, 2010 at 12:00 PM. While this is a self-study exam, we will be offering a Review Session on March 27, 2010 from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, with a 1-hour lunch break. Registration for the exam itself should be done directly through the Society of Wine Educators’ website and will cost $370.00, with the corresponding study guide. The full-day review session, inclusive of a light lunch paired with wines, will be $375/person with a discount rate of $295/person for organizations signing up three or more people, with sign-up done through Grand Cru Classes.
And, as a save-the-date, we will be collaborating with Macari Vineyards to present our Sex, Wine & Chocolate event on April 17, 2010 from 3:00-5:00 PM in Macari’s newly expanded tasting room.
Drink wisely and well,
Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer
and
Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer
Botrytized Wines: When Bad Mold Goes Good
Growing grapes is a never-ending challenge; no matter where your vines are planted, one must contend with a lengthy list of pests and perils that threaten the health of the vines and grapes. From gusty winds and ravenous birds to virulent bacteria and disease, the vigneron keeps a vigilant eye on his or her vineyard. In maritime climates (those found near bodies of water), damp conditions dominate, providing the perfect opportunity for the development of mold and mildew. In most cases, mold and mildew are negative. However, under the right conditions, one particular blight can lead to a very positive outcome.
When this particular mold behaves badly, it is called bunch rot or grey rot. These grapes will become mushy and useless – incapable of anything other than fodder for the trash heap. However, if the misty mornings are followed by warm, sunny afternoons, a completely different fungus develops. Known as botrytis cinera or noble rot, the mold spores send out tiny filaments, piercing the grape’s skin and chemically-altering their composition. Consequently, the grapes shrivel on the vine, becoming desiccated and concentrated. These “rotten” grapes will actually yield amazing wines, despite their extremely unattractive appearance.
Recognized as a positive element as early as the 17th century, noble rot is now responsible for some of the greatest wines in the world. More specifically, favorable conditions for promoting noble rot are found in the Sauternes area within France’s Bordeaux region; Burgenland in Austria; Eger in Hungary and several regions in Germany. Botrytized wines combine bright acidity and high levels of sugar, which balance each other beautifully, coupled with rich aromas and flavors of citrus, honey, apricot and raisin. They are capable of lengthy ageing, developing further complexity and concentration with time.
Because the rot affects the grape bunches unevenly, the grapes are not only hand-harvested, but they must also be harvested in numerous passes through the vineyard. The famed Chateau d’Yquem of Sauternes is known to send its workers through the fields up to eleven times in a single year’s harvest, while most producers rely on four to nine passes or tries. Additionally, due to significant water evaporation from the grapes, they yield considerably less liquid than non-botrytized grapes. With a regular wine, one grapevine is equivalent to one bottle of wine; with noble rot, one grapevine is equivalent to only one glass of wine. Therefore, these wines typically command high prices. Also, as dessert wines, they are often packaged in smaller 375 ml bottles. Yet, while dessert is a perfect complement to these wines, they can also provide a foil for rich foods such as foie gras and Roquefort cheese.
Tasting Notes
Alois Kracher, Burgenland Beerenauslese Cuvée 2005, Burgenland, Austria, $36.00 (375 ml)
Notes of honey, mushroom, musk and botrytis dominate the nose. Fully sweet, the wine has medium+ acidity, full body and long length. Flavors of honey, spice, dried peach and pineapple pervade the palate.
Château Rieussec, Fargues 2003, Bordeaux, France, $90.00
With a deep golden hue, this wine provides aromas of raisins, spice and dried fruit. On the palate, it is medium-sweet, with medium+ body, balanced acidity and rich flavors of honey, spice and licorice.
Château Guiraud, Sauternes 2001, Bordeaux, France, $110.00
Pronounced aromas of spice, toast, nut and honey greet the nose. The full-bodied palate is medium-sweet with high acidity and complex flavors of honey, licorice, orange marmalade, orange peel and spice.
Château Laufaurie-Peyraguey, Bommes 1955, Bordeaux, France
Showing its age gracefully, this wine has a medium copper color and displays developed aromas of burnt sugar and spice. While still medium-sweet, the sweetness is less overt, with flavors of honey, burnt sugar, vanilla and brandy persisting throughout the long finish.
Dobogo, Tokaji Aszu (6 Puttanyos) 1999, Eger, Hungary, $37.00
Copper in color, this wine is a blend of Harslevelu and Furmint, which are indigenous grapes from the area. Medium-sweet with high acidity, it is full-bodied with pronounced flavors of orange, apricot, cloves, caramel and sweet spice, culminating in long length.