This past weekend, I attended the Champagne Classic at the Lenz Winery in Peconic (The North Fork of Long Island). First and foremost, it was a wonderful event. We had the opportunity to taste 12 different wines, several of which I really liked. However, the event’s name is a misnomer. While champagne was actually served (three non-vintage labels, including the widow herself), the majority of the wines served should correctly be called sparkling wines. Does it matter?

The Champenois would certainly say yes. They have fought long and hard to protect their name, which they have also successfully marketed as a luxury product. As a traditionalist and terroir-ist, I have to agree with them. Napa and the North Fork are not Champagne anymore than Saumur or St. Emilion are Champagne.

The U.S. wine industry seems to be mixed in its response. Most sparkling wine producers respect the distinction and label their wines accordingly. However, I recently read an account of the late Willy Frank of Vinifera Wine Cellars noting that if it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck… Not surprisingly, he called his sparkling wine "champagne."

Do we as Americans feel that calling a wine simply "sparkling wine " will reduce its value in the eyes of the consumer? I imagine that most consumers aren’t aware of the distinction. And, from time to time, even I have to catch myself from using "champagne" as a generic term.

In the end, if we call a sparkling wine of any origian other than Champagne "champagne" we do a disservice to non-Champagne. Rather, by referring to sparkling wines correctly, especially when they have specific names such as Prosecco or Moscati d’Asti, we honor these wines and their own unique qualities. They are not Champagne, but they can be appreciated for what they are.

Further, by expanding the consumer’s horizon, they might become acquainted with the many other exciting sparkling wines available to them, frequently at a more pocket-book-friendly price, and come to appreciate that a wine not called Champagne can certainly still be as dry (brut) or as sweet (demi-sec).