At my Sparkling Wines of the World class, the latter portion of the day was devoted to a mock exam, whereby we were presented with three blind samples on which to write tasting notes (and guess each wine’s origins) as well as write an answer to an essay question in an alloted 30 minutes.

The essay stated, "Great wine is made in the vineyard. Explain how this is true in Champagne." My unedited response, which I read aloud for the class, follows:

"Great wine is made in the vineyard." While it is vinification that actually produces the wine, it is only through the precise balance of all factors that a truly great wine can be made. This notion is particularly evident in the Champagne region of France, which produces the greatest sparkling wines in the world. Though other regions are known for making good sparkling wines, it is the unique terroir of Champagne that is responsible for the high quality of wines that are so highly regarded.

The unique terroir of Champage can be attributed to several factors, which include the grape varieties, climate, geography of the region, viticultural practices and the soil. Particularly, it is the limestone, chalky soils of Champagne that form the best vineyards. These soils impart the mineral quality of Champagne wines. The chalky whiteness also helps to reflect light onto the grapes, helping to ripen them.

The climate itself, which is marginal at best, actually adds to the quality of the wine by ensuring that the grapes don’t overripen. The cool, continental climate means that the grapes must contend with winter kill and spring frost. However, it also retains the crisp acidity in the grapes that do survive and mature. This acidity plays a key role in the flavor of the wine as well as in retaining a low alcohol level, permitting the secondary fermentation to take place. 

The geography and topography are used to advantage to overcome some of the climate’s perils. Specifically, planting on hillsides and east-facing slopes increases sun exposure and adds to the warmth of the vineyard. Similarly, the viticultural practices of using Taille Chablis trellising and pruning help to protect the grapes from the cool temperatures. Other measures such as aspersion and spraying from helicopters provide further frost protection.

The viticultural practice proscribed for vine density of 6,000-10,000 vines/hectare results in quality grapes, as the vines compete with one another for space and nutrients. The blend of the three grapes themselves — Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier — are also responsible for the quality of the wine. These grapes each impart their own special qualities to the blend: acidity and finesse from Chardonnay; body and aromas from Pinot Noir; and body and a mushroom character from the Pinot Meunier. Together, they produce a wine that is more complex than the sum of its parts.

These aspects of Champage’s unique terroir conspire to produce high quality fruit that is well-suited to the vinicultural practices that follow in the production of a sparkling wine. Thus, the quality of the wine ultimately produced is a direct result of everything that went on in the vineyard prior to harvest. Consequently, great wine is indeed made in the vineyard.