Grand Cru Grapevine: Oregon, but not forgotten (August 2009)

As mentioned previously, we had the wonderful opportunity to visit Oregon in May of this year, visiting downtown Portland as well as spending time in the Willamette Valley. This wine region is producing spectacular wines and, while we have left the area, the memories of its wines are certainly not forgotten. To that end, we revisit its history and provide you with a brief introduction this month.

Among other travels, Tracy has just returned from Sacramento where she attended the Society of Wine Educators’ annual conference, reconnected with many colleagues and participated in a wide variety of educational seminars. Meanwhile, Jared has completed the last of the infrastructure projects for our educational vineyard, installing several hundred feet of irrigation hose. True to Murphy’s Law, the continued downpour has precluded the need for irrigation this year.

Apropos all of the rain, we have been busy offering our services at a number of bridal showers and, additionally, have created a new theme for bachelorette parties – Aphrodite meets Bacchus & Lady Godiva. If you are planning a wedding celebration, let us help you design the perfect wine-themed event.

On a final note, we will be placing a new order for Schott-Zwiesel titanium crystal and invite you to add to your own stemware collection. You may have seen us strike these amazing glasses against our granite counter-top and held your breath as you expected them to break only to watch them remain perfectly intact. This stemware is available in a wide range of styles from classic to modern and can be purchased for as little as $8.00/stem, plus shipping and handling. We’ll soon add more details to our website, so please check back if you are interested in placing an order, or email us directly for a catalog.

Drink wisely and well,

Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., DWS, CWE
CEO: Chief Education Officer

and

Jared Michael Skolnick
COO: Cork Opening Officer

OREGON, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN

Despite its youth as a wine-producing state, Oregon has become nearly synonymous with quality wine and notably its Pinot Noir. Yet, only a few decades ago, early settlers were laughed at by their peers. In 1966, David Lett was fresh out of UC Davis and determined to plant a vineyard and begin making wine. He found what he felt to be suitable land in the Dundee Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, founding the Eyrie Vineyard in 1970, and the rest, as they say, is history. 

David was joined by other wine pioneers shortly thereafter, setting the stage for this nascent wine region. Seeing similarity between their terroir and that of Burgundy (heartland of Pinot Noir), they set about crafting wines that emulated these icons while respecting their own unique soils and climate. Perhaps the most ringing endorsement of their success was the investment made by a top Burgundy négociant and producer, Maison Joseph Drouhin, when it established Domaine Drouhin in Willamette in 1988. Today, Oregon ranks as the fourth largest in U.S. wine production and its wines are highly acclaimed both here and abroad.

While wine regions exist in Oregon’s other valleys – namely Umpqua and Rogue, it is the Willamette Valley that has achieved the most fame. Situated only one hour from Portland, the Willamette is divided into six sub-appellations: Dundee Hills, Ribbon Ridge, Eola Amity Hills, McMinneville, Yamhill-Carlton District and Chehalem Mountains. Beyond Pinot Noir, the Willamette is also known for its Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and sparkling wines. To a lesser extent, some producers are working with Rhone varieties – Syrah and Viognier, most of which is sourced from the warmer Rogue Valley in southern Oregon.

Unfortunately, Oregon Pinot Noir can be quite pricey, due to its limited, labor-intensive, quality-conscious production. However, among New World Pinot Noirs, they are considered to be among the best. Thus, you will be well rewarded for your investment. At the more affordable end, A to Z Wineworks, WillaKenzie and Anne Amie’s Cuvée A provide good value. If you are feeling more flush and wish to splurge a bit, seek out Elk Cove, Bergström, and Cristom.

Tasting Notes

Adelsheim, Pinot Blanc 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $22.00
Among the early pioneers, Adelsheim was established in 1971. Its Pinot Blanc shows citrus, mineral and pear aromas. On the palate, it is dry with medium acidity, medium body and notes of citrus and minerality. 

Anne Amie, Cuvée A Amrita 2007, Willamette Valley, OR, $16.00
Named for the Buddhist equivalent of ambrosia, Amrita is a white blend of Pinot Blanc (47%), Muller-Thurgau (25%), Chardonnay (15%), and Riesling (13%). Aromas of tropical fruit and grass give way to a dry palate with citrus and herbal flavors. 1,700 cases produced. 

Jezebel, Pinot Noir 2007, Oregon, $18.00
From Daedalus Cellars, Jezebel is produced as their second label, with grapes sourced from throughout the state for wines intended to be drunk early in their life. This Pinot Noir displays aromas and flavors of barnyard, raspberry and earth. 

Bergström, de Lancellotti Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007, Chehalem Mountains, OR, $65.00
With a focus on vineyard expression, Bergstrom produces several vineyard designate Pinot Noirs. The de Lancellotti Vineyard shows floral, raspberry and stone aromas and flavors, which combine with an earthy undercurrent that persists throughout its long length. 455 cases produced.

Penner-Ash, Syrah 2006, Oregon, $32.00
Produced in the northern Rhone Valley tradition, this Syrah is co-fermented with 1.5% Viognier. The nose is a mix of plum, berries and floral. Its dry, medium+-bodied palate has a nice, ripe tannic grip with flavors of plum, spice and leather, culminating in long length.

Amity Vineyards, Late Estate Harvest Riesling 2004, Willamette Valley, OR, $15.00 (375 ml)
Owner Myron Redford began making wine in the Eola-Amity appellation in 1974. His late harvest Riesling offers peach, apricot and honey aromas on the nose, joined by developing and floral notes in the mouth. A true dessert wine, it provides significant sweetness on the palate, which is beautifully balanced with vibrant acidity.

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