While summer and clambakes are behind us for now, the wines that accompany them don’t have to be put on hold. In this regard, winemaker Mary McAuley and her Clambake Wines are great accompaniments at the table anytime of year. And, with their luscious fruit and lovely minerality, these wines are actually a wonderful option for Thanksgiving, given their versatility and vibrant acidity.
Mary produces her wines under her Ripe Life Wines company and was first inspired to do so when she was less than satisfied with the options available when selecting wines for a friends’ annual clambake. A certified sommelier and graduate of the French Culinary Institute, Mary decided to solve the problem by making her own wine. Thus, her single-vineyard, Unoaked Chardonnay and Limited Edition Rose, were crafted in response. More recently, she added the Moules Blanc de Blancs Brut to her seafood-themed portfolio. Made with 100% sustainable grapes sourced from the Lodi Valley (CA), this methode champenoise sparkler is produced from 100% Chardonnay grapes.
Aromas of minerality and butter greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is fresh, with citrus and red apple flavors, medium-plus body, a slight toothpick texture and lovely, long length.
Hailing from the Hawkeye Vineyard, this rose is produced from 100% Pinot Noir grapes. It offers up notes of melon and strawberry. The dry palate shows bright acidity, medium body, with simple, but fresh and good fruit, culminating in long length.
Each year, I have the good fortune to hear from the PR person who represents Merry Edwards Winery offering me the opportunity to taste through the current selection of releases. And, every year, I gratefully accept and yet somehow take months to drink through the wines. I am a diligent and dependable person who meets deadlines at the office and yet these bottles linger in my wine cellar for months. Case in point, I received this latest set of wines in late May and yet here it is mid-September and I have only just finished tasting the last of the wines this week. Why?
Why indeed? I gave this quite some thought as the item to taste (and then write) about these wines languished on my “to do” list month after month.
Well, for one thing, I generally prefer to taste these wines alongside a lovely meal, share them with friends and family or both. These are special wines that I truly enjoy drinking with good company, eager to give others the opportunity to taste them as well. In this regard, I sometimes wait for the “perfect” dinner or the “special” occasion rather than just opening them up on a random Tuesday with leftovers. And, while there is nothing wrong with this in theory, in practice it means that lots of time lapses in between tastings.
Recognizing this propensity in myself, I chose to adopt a different philosophy over the past two weeks. We are likely all familiar with the phrase “Life’s too short to drink bad wine,” but it is true in that life is too short… period. End of sentence. We should celebrate the time we have and enjoy it to the best of our abilities. For some (myself included), the price point on these wines means that you can only indulge in them occasionally, but really, while these are, indeed, special wines, they don’t require a special occasion or the perfect moment to drink them. Thus, in accordance with this new approach, I changed tactics and drank the last three bottles in close proximity to each other. I was now done with tasting and could move on to writing.
In this regard, I often write about the climate and soil of the vineyards where the grapes for these wines are grown (see here for previous stories), which is relevant given that five of the wines below are of the same grape variety and it is their distinct environment that sets them apart from one another and accounts for many of the differences among them. But, at the end of the day, it is what the wine tastes like in your glass that has the most meaning, irrespective of microclimates and soil types.
Thus, what is perhaps more important to you, the reader, is identifying the style of the resulting wine and equally critical, the set and setting in which one drinks it. We all have preferences for different styles of wine, all of which are valid. Taking time to savor the aromas and flavors, seeing how the wine develops in the glass over the course of one’s meal and simply being in a great frame of mind — whether alone or joined by others — all contribute to our enjoyment, much more so than the formality of the meal or day of the week.
So, here are my tasting notes for each of these wines, along with the set and setting (to the best of my recollection as I wasn’t planning on including that information). I hope you will find a style that appeals to your palate and seek it out to sip and savor as we celebrate this thing called life!
Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Sonoma County (CA), USA, $48.00 Complex aromas of herbs, smoke, citrus/tangerine greet the nose and persist on the palate with vibrant acidity, medium+ body and long length. I opened up this bottle with dinner featuring tuna steaks on Monday, July 3 (the eve of the July 4th holiday) to celebrate the deep bonds of friendship that my husband and I share with our dear friend Gisela, all of whom greatly appreciated this wonderful wine.
Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $75.00 Redolent of ripe, dark cherries, herbs, cocoa and a hint of leather, this rich and robust wine was dry on the palate with bright acidity, medium+ body and very long length. My friend Rob and I spent the weekend of June 30-July 2 at the Riverwind Inn B&B in Deep River, CT and opened up this bottle to toast our weekend away, sitting on balcony and taking in the view of the property’s gardens.
Merry Edwards Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $65.00 Very herbal in character, this wine offers up plum and cherries, with notes of both fresh and dried herbs. The dry palate had medium acidity, medium+ body, noticeable yet ripe tannins and long length. While not deliberately opened up in honor of Bastille Day, I did enjoy this wine with dinner with my husband on Friday, July 14. I don’t recall what we ate, but we definitely loved the wine!
Merry Edwards Georganne Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $70.00 This wine was more fruit driven than the others, but was still quite elegant, with dark cherry aromas and flavors and a slight earthy character. The palate displayed bright acidity, medium+ body and dusty tannins, culminating in long length. I shared this wine on Saturday, September 9 with my aforementioned friend, Rob, at his home in Stamford, CT where we collaborated on creating a delicious lentil and sweet potato dish from the New York Times (find the recipe online here). NB: Dish is pictured above.
Merry Edwards Coopersmith Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $70.00 This wine displayed floral aromas along with red and black cherries and berries on the nose and palate. It had good acidity, with medium body and long length. As a quiet moment before the hustle and bustle of the week ahead, my husband and I shared this bottle of wine over dinner (pasta with pesto sauce and parmesan cheese) on Sunday, September 10.
Merry Edwards Dach Pinot Noir 2021, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $75.00 The most structured of the bunch, this wine provided a variety of aromas and flavors including herbs, dark red fruit and earth, with an herbal undercurrent. It had firm tannins, full body and long length on the dry, vibrant palate. While my husband was away for the weekend, on Friday, September 15, I celebrated the end of my work week with dinner on my own, which consisted of yummy pork chops wrapped in bacon and rosemary and this beautiful wine. Then I continued to enjoy the wine as I binge-watched Glow Up on Netflix.
Happy November! Thanksgiving is around the corner, which means that you are likely busy planning holiday menus and wondering what wines should grace your table.
For the past several years, I have had the great pleasure of having at least one bottle of Merry Edwards wines paired with my Thanksgiving meal (see especially this post). In fact, I am very grateful to have been able to sample these wines since 2020. They have been a bright spot in what has been a challenging period for us all.
This year (thankfully) is no exception. Yet, rather than wait to taste my final bottle to share my tasting notes with you, I wanted to post this now to encourage you to take advantage of this special offering to ensure that you, too, can enjoy a bottle (or more) of Merry Edwards as part of your festivities.
The folks at Merry Edwards have curated a special Thanksgiving set of wines featuring one bottle each of: – 2020 Olivet Lane Chardonnay* – 2020 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir* – 2020 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir*
The wines also include a wooden etched logo box, making it a very gift-worthy option.
Note: There are a limited number of Thanksgiving Sets available, so don’t delay if you feel the pull. Plus, the shipping deadline for guaranteed Thanksgiving delivery is: Friday, November 11th. –>To purchase, visit their website or call the winery at: 888-388-9050.
Of course, any of the Merry Edward wines would be a great addition to your table now and throughout the year and are perfect gifting wines as well.
*Tasting notes for the Pinot Noirs are included below as is my tasting note for a previous vintage of the Olivet Lane Chardonnay.
TASTING NOTES
Merry Edwards 2019 Olivet Lane Chardonnay, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00 Aromas of butter and smoke greet the nose and persist on the elegant palate, with apple and citrus flavors, good acidity, medium+ body and very long length. NB: The offer above includes the 2020 vintage; this note is for the 2019 vintage.
Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $45.00 This continues to be a favorite Sauvignon Blanc of mine. The wine is fresh, with a pronounced nose of ripe citrus and tropical fruit aromas. The palate is dry, with ripe citrus fruit on the attack, bright acidity, medium+ body, and long length. Overall, it is mouth filling and delicious.
Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2020, Sonoma County (CA), USA, $48.00 From the larger Sonoma Coast AVA, this wine is sourced from grapes that are grown in the cool, coastal climate. The nose and palate are redolent of fresh and dried herbs, with dark cherry aromas and flavors. It is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, soft, ripe tannins, culminating in long length.
Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2020, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $58.00 From Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, which is situated further inland, these vineyards are warmer than the coast, but still influenced by the fog, maintaining good acidity levels and freshness in the grapes. Concentrated, with ripe, dark cherry fruit, and notes of earth, pomegranate, and a hint of coffee. The wine is layered and complex, with bright acidity and nice length on the palate.
Merry Edwards Meredith Estate Pinot Noir 2020, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00 Selfishly, I am going to save this to enjoy for Thanksgiving 2022 and will include my tasting note after the holiday.
However, here is my note from the 2018 vintage of this same wine:
Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $72.00 With 20 planted acres, the Meredith Estate vineyard is one of the larger single-vineyard productions from Merry Edwards. This abandoned apple orchard in the Sebastopol Hills was purchased by Merry in 1996 and planted to Pinot in 1998. They practice sustainable agriculture, with the use of cover crops and other earth-friendly farming approaches. Red and black cherries feature prominently on the nose, with cherry and berry fruit, along with notes of wet leaves and an herbal undercurrent. The dry palate provides a decidedly savory note, with medium+ body, high acidity and very long length.
There are meditation wines, cocktail-party wines and those that are really best enjoyed with food. With the holiday season upon us, the latter two are in particular demand as we head to family gatherings, holiday parties and other social events.
Wines best for the table generally have bright, vibrant acidity, which I have heard by one sommelier described as a “highlighter” of the meal, underscoring the flavor of the food. In this regard, there are a wide variety of choices with all colors (white, orange, rose and red) as well as both the absence and presence of effervescence very welcome in one’s glass.
Here are a wealth of options to consider as you shop the wine aisle or webpage of your favorite retailer or peruse the wine list while dining out.
Sparkling wines As noted above, sparkling wines are very food friendly and most have beautiful acidity. Moreover, the sparkle in sparkling wines further cleanses the palate and makes them great for toasting at the table. Plus, we can’t discount the fun factor that bubbles add to any occasion, so they are especially appropriate for the celebratory season.
I’ve written about Prosecco Superiore numerous times (see this, this and this) because these are well-made wines at a great price. Produced via the tank method, these wines emphasize fruit and floral aromas and flavors and some have a slight sweetness (but are still decidedly dry) that can pair well with spice.
Albino Armani Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Veneto, Italy $19.99 Aromas and flavors of floral and pear, with nice consistent perlage, freshness on the palate, culminating in long length.
White and Orange Wines Many white wines are good pairing partners due to their acidity, light to medium body and range of flavors to mix and match with what is being served. This is equally true of Chardonnay, plus it has some additional characteristics which work well with food such as its fuller body, which means it can stand up to richer, heavier fare. Similarly, those Chardonnays with buttery or woody notes are great options if you wish to echo these flavors in the food. For example, a rich, buttery Chardonnay paired with lobster tails in a creamy butter sauce.
Merry Edwards 2019 Olivet Lane Chardonnay, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00 Aromas of butter and smoke greet the nose and persist on the elegant palate, with apple and citrus flavors, good acidity, medium+ body and very long length.
Another “white” variety with some chameleon properties is Pinot Grigio (also known as Pinot Gris). In fact, the grape is not white, but rather gray (hence its name — both grigio and gris translate as gray in Italian and French, respectively). Yet, it can be produced in shades of white as well as orange.
Albino Armani Corvara Pinot Grigio 2019, Valdadige DOC, Italy, $14.99 Notes of smoke and tangerine give way to pear and minerality on the dry palate, with medium acidity, medium+ body and long length.
About Albino Armani Albino Armani is a family-owned winery with five wineries situated in Northeast Italy and is particularly well regarded as a producer of Pinot Grigio (the family has been producing it for 400 years). In fact, Mr. Armani is presently President of the Consorzio Pinot Grigio delle Venezie. He believes that the best climate for this grape is a cool climate with temperatures that range 55-59F, otherwise the resulting wines are lacking in acidity. In this regard, the Alto Adige region is perfect with its continental climate, good diurnal shifts and extended daylight hours. He produces several Pinot Grigio wines, including two single vineyard bottlings: one from the Corvara Vineyard and the other from the Colle Ara Vineyard.
Found within Valdadige, the Corvara Vineyard is surrounded by mountains, whose limestone rock reflects sunlight onto the vines. Constant winds from these mountains and nearby Lake Garda help ward off disease.
From the Colle Ara Vineyard within the Terra dei Forti denomination (which was created 25 years ago), Albino produces a ramato style Pinot Grigio. Pale copper in color, this hue of this wine stems from skin contact: the grape juice is macerated with the grape skins for a brief period of time leaching color from the skins. Recalling the wines of his childhood, Albino sought to reintroduce this traditional production method in creating this wine.
Lighter-bodied Reds: Schiava and Pinot Noir Lighter bodied reds, especially ones with bright acidity, are another terrific option since they won’t overpower the food, but still have freshness to cleanse the palate. Two such grapes that fit this bill are Schiava and Pinot Noir.
Certainly not a household name (at least not yet), the Schiava grape variety (also known as Vernatsch or Trollinger) hails from the Alto Adige region of Italy, where It has been cultivated since the 16th century. The variety is also grown in Germany, especially in the Baden-Wurttemberg area. Overall, these wines are lighter bodied, dry reds with aromas and flavors of berries, almonds and violets.
Today, the grape is finding renewed favor in the region, with more attention paid to quality both in the vineyard areas and in the winery. Thankfully, many older (80-100 year old) vines still exist, which adds complexity to the wines. With their vibrant acidity, light body and low tannins, Schiava wines are well suited to a wide range of cuisine including charcuterie, cheeses, pasta dishes, pizza as well as Asian cuisine.
Alois Lageder Vernatsch – Schiava 2020, Alto Adige, Italy, ~$20.00 Pale garnet in color, this wine has a stunning nose of cranberry and earth. The palate is dry, with tart acidity, medium- body and flavors of earth, cranberry, pomegranate, and smoke, finishing with medium+ length.
Castel Sallegg Wine Estate Schiava Bischofsleiten 2020 Sudtirol, Alto Adige Lago di Caldaro Scelto Classico, ~$20.00 Slight herbal aromas on the nose become more pronounced on the dry palate and are joined by cherry and berry notes. High acidity, medium body and long length. This was beautiful with roasted chicken.
Likewise, Pinot Noir is a quintessential quaffer at the table. With its bright acidity and depth of flavors from fruity to floral and herbal to earthy, it provides a robust palette from which to pair various dishes. Moreover, the range of styles currently produced (cooler climate vs. warmer climate) adds to the options from which to choose.
I've once again had the pleasure of tasting through a number of Merry Edwards single vineyard Pinot Noirs, which I've discussed previously (see here, here and here). It was wonderful to revisit some favorites, especially the Bucher Vineyard.
Merry Edwards PINOT NOIR 2019, Sonoma Coast(CA), USA, $54.00 Aromas of cherries, earth and spice repeat on the palate, along with flavors of plum and berry. The dry palate has medium acidity, medium body, soft tannins, and long length.
Merry Edwards BUCHER PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00 This wine offers up deeper, darker notes of spice, black cherries and an undercurrent of earth, with bright acidity, medium+ body, medium tannins and very long length.
Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00 Red and black fruit and slight herbal notes pervade the nose, while the dry, yet very ripe palate presents flavors of black cherry, spice, and dried herbs, with medium acidity, medium to full body, ripe tannins and long length.
Yet, even with the fruitier styles of Pinot Noir available in the market, they might not be the perfect foil for heartier fare. For dishes such as beef stews and pork chops, one might prefer a full-bodied red with good acidity, ripe tannins and lovely fruit flavors such as an Amarone or Cabernet Sauvignon.
Albino Armani Amarone Riserva Cuslanus 2015, Veneto, Italy, $59.99 Beautiful nose, showing some development, with spice, wood, dried cherries and plum. The dry palate offered up medium+ acidity, medium+-to-full body and long length.
To learn more about Valpolicella and Amarone, please see this issue of Drinking Wisely & Well.
Over the past year-plus, I have had the privilege of becoming familiar with the Merry Edwards Winery and its wines. Tasting through the single vineyard Pinot Noirs, I continue to be impressed with the quality, character and elegance of these various expressions of this grape as influenced by each unique terroir.
As I discovered during the Gary Farrell tasting, the Russian River Valley has such a diversity of microclimates that the Russian River Valley Winegrowers have created six smaller areas they refer to as neighborhoods within the boundaries of the region to more accurately reflect these differences.
In this regard, the most recent selection of wines I tasted included selections from four different vineyards, including Georganne (Middle Reach), Olivet Lane (Santa Rosa Plains), Klopp (Laguna Ridge) and Coopersmith (Laguna Ridge), as well as the Russian River Valley Pinot, which is produced from grapes sourced from throughout the Valley.
Of course, while the vineyards’ locations within a given neighborhood (and hence microclimate) will influence the finished wine, it is also the soil, site and other growing factors that make the wines from each vineyard unique from another.
In addition to the beauty within each bottle, the most recent releases also sport new labels. These new designs preserve the spirit of the original, while freshening up the brand’s look. More importantly, the intention is to focus on the future with a positive outlook and much hope.
At a time when things are so in flux, we could all use more hope and desire for a bright future. As Merry Edwards Winery continues to craft such amazing wines, its future is bright indeed!
These wines are a perfect way to celebrate National Pinot Noir Day (August 18). Plus, you can participate in a special virtual tasting featuring Merry Edwards’ winemaker, Heidi von der Mehden, and Karen MacNeil, author of the “The Wine Bible,”
The two will be live on Zoom on Wednesday, August 18th @ 4 PM PDT and will taste: – 2019 Merry Edwards Meredith Estate Pinot Noir – 2019 Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir – 2019 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
These wines are available for purchase on the Merry Edwards’ website.
Merry Edwards Winery Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley(CA), US, $60.00 Spice and floral aromas greet the nose. The dry, yet juicy, palate offers up bright acidity, ripe raspberries, rhubarb, an herbal undercurrent, along with soft tannins, medium body, and very long length.
Merry Edwards Winery Coopersmith Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), US, $73.00 This vineyard, originally an apple orchard, was purchased by Merry and her husband (Ken Coopersmith) in 1999 and planted it to Pinot in 2001. Earthy, cherry and cocoa notes greet the nose and persist on the palate, with high acidity, medium body, soft tannins and very long length.
Merry Edwards Winery Georganne Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley, $70.00 Merry first leased this vineyard in 2006 from Georganne and Bob Proctor. As a sign that this collaboration was meant to be, Ken and Merry’s middle names are George and Ann, respectively. On the nose, this wine presents smoky, earthy and herbal aromas, with a generous palate of rich, round fruit — raspberries and cherries — joined by herbaceous and a slight menthol note, with medium acidity, medium body, and very long length.
Merry Edwards Winery Klopp Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), US, $74.00 Originally planted in 1989, Merry has been involved with this vineyard from the very beginning. With the small berry clusters that this vineyard produces, the wines generally provide dark fruit and earthy notes. Aromas of dark cherries and blueberry persist on the dry palate, along with hints of herbs and earth, vibrant acidity and medium+ body, culminating in very long length.
Merry Edwards Winery Olivet Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), US, $80.00 Planted in 1973, Merry has been producing an Olivet Lane Pinot since 1997. On the nose, this wine displays floral, cherry and dried herbal notes. The palate is dry with medium+ acidity, firm, ripe tannins and medium+ body, with rich and concentrated tart cherry, herbs, earthy, and a black tea undercurrent, with very long length.
As a pioneer of the Russian River Valley (in Sonoma, CA), Gary Farrell kicked off his wine career in the late 1970s with an emphasis on cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Working along with fellow vintners including Davis Bynum, Joe Rochioli and others, together they helped put this (now) prestigious area on the map.
The Gary Farrell label itself was launched in 1982, with the first wine produced with fruit from the Rochioli Vineyard. This set the stage for what was to follow – crafting wines from other people’s grapes. In fact, to this day, Gary Farrell doesn’t own any of its own vineyards; all of the fruit is “contracted” from various vineyards throughout the Valley – many with a simple handshake agreement. In this regard, Gary Farrell Winery has worked closely with many winegrowers for decades, currently sourcing grapes from about 36 vineyards, most (if not all) of which practice certified sustainable farming.
Sold in 2004, the winery is presently owned by Bill Price and a group of industry investors, keeping the same focus on pure expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Since 2012, the winery’s winemaking has been under the direction of Theresa Heredia, a California native with a bachelor’s degree in biochemistry from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo.
Heredia initially sought to leverage her love of science and her desire to share her knowledge through the pursuit of a Ph.D. However, during her graduate studies, she became fascinated about the research being conducted on the chemistry of wine by her fellow grad students. With a love of drinking wine already firmly entrenched, the discovery of wine science now called to her, and she transferred into the enology program three days later. She eventually left U.C. Davis to become a winemaker.
Over the next several years, Theresa gained experience at Saintsbury and Joseph Phelps’ Freestone Vineyards and also
developed a Burgundian approach through her work at Domaine de Montille. Thus, she came to her current role with a solid background in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as well as single-vineyard wines.
Thus, it is not surprising that upon Heredia’s arrival at Gary Farrell, the company shifted focus from one, single vineyard wine to 36 single vineyards, with the intention of showing the full expression of the Russian River Valley’s various vinous neighborhoods. In this regard, Heredia tailors her winemaking to the vineyard at the time of harvest. As she notes, her philosophy is to always respect the fruit.
A recent tasting provided an in-depth look at several of Gary Farrell’s single vineyard wines in an effort to compare and contrast the differing “neighborhoods” within the larger Russian River Valley. And, while the vineyards are not technically sub-AVAs, they do act as such, with distinct soil compositions, microclimates and clonal types, all of which impact the style of the resulting wine.
The wines tasted were all from the 2017 vintage, which sport new, blue labels to more easily distinguish these single vineyard wines from the company’s Russian River Selection wines. More specifically, the blue label designates a single vineyard. Two of the single vineyards have national distribution; the others are only available through the winery.
TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAYS All of the Chardonnays are 100% malolactic fermented, thereby converting the sharper, malic (think apple) acid into the creamier lactic (think milk) acid. The wines were barrel fermented in lightly toasted barrels about 30% and then aged for 8 to 9 months in oak barrels, 35% of which was new oak. The puncheons undergo a long, light toast, which imparts creaminess and richness, while minimizing oak influence. The overall goal is to accentuate the fruit, not mask it with wood.
Gary Farrell Winery Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $45.00 The Olivet Lane Vineyard is situated within the Santa Rosa Plains a unique, flat area with cold air that settles at night yielding wines with concentrated fruit, texture, and vibrant and juicy acidity. The vineyard was planted in 1975 with the Wente clone, which clone produces small berries. The wine offered up aromas of apple and well-integrated oak, which persist on the dry palate, along with baking spices. The elegant wine displays medium+ acidity, medium+ body and long length.
Gary Farrell Winery Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $60.00 The Ritchie Vineyard hails from Laguna Ridge, which is located in the center of the Valley, thereby taking on characteristics of each adjacent area. The wines are generally packed with flavors, tremendous intensity and are more opulent and less acidity driven. The legendary Ritchie Vineyard was first planted in 1972. The selection of Chardonnay planted here develops hens and chicks (grapes of uneven sizes in the same bunch), which requires careful pressing. Aromas of apple, citrus, smoke and oak greet the nose. The dry palate shows medium+ acidity, medium+ body, and flavors of golden apple, citrus/orange and very long length.
Gary Farrell Winery Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00 The history between Rochioli Vineyard and Gary Farrell dates back 38 years, a vineyard found within the Middle Reach area. This northern part of the Russian River Valley, up near Healdsburg, is adjacent to the Russian River, which pulls fog and keeps nights cool. Meanwhile, the days are much warmer. Consequently, the resulting wines are typically riper with more tropical fruit. This wine provides notes of citrus and stone fruit on both the nose and dry palate. Richer and riper than the other two, this wine displays juicy acidity, fuller body, with flavors of citrus and wood, culminating in very long length.
PINOT NOIRS
Gary Farrell Winery Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00 Also found within the Middle Reach area, the Bacigalupi Vineyard was established in 1964 when Helen and Charles Bacigalupi planted it to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and later claimed fame as the growers of the grapes used by Chateau Montelena’s winning wine in the Judgement of Paris in 1976. Pinot Noir from Middle Reach usually offers up notes of cherry, rose petals, floral, raspberries, and a general supple expression of fruit and earthiness. With aromas of red cherries, smoke and dried flowers, this wine is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, and flavors of spice, earth, cherry, giving way to long length.
Gary Farrell Winery Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Green Valley/Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $55.00 The Hallberg Vineyard takes its name from its previous owners and sits within Green Valley, which is actually an official sub-AVA of the Russian River Valley. Thanks to the Green Valley’s proximity to the Pacific Ocean, it is drenched in fog from the afternoon until the following morning. Resulting wines most frequently display an earthy backbone with bright acidity and darker fruit such as cassis and huckleberry. Aromas of black raspberry, blackberry and earthiness persist on the dry palate, along with bracing acidity, medium body and very long length.
Gary Farrell Winery McDonald Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $70.00 Situated within Sebastopol Hills, the McDonald Mountain Vineyard is at the southern tip of the Russian River Valley, with exposure to the Petaluma Gap. Known as the “heartbreak vineyard,” yields are very low and there is natural desiccation due to lots of wind, fog and cool weather. Additionally, the clonal selection results in tiny clusters. The key characteristic of these wines is an acid backbone, with less fruit, more earth character. The nose offers up notes of earth, black tea, cassis, raspberry and exotic spice, with a dry, angular palate, vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.
Gary Farrell Winery Martaella Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017, Russian River Valley, U.S. (CA), $65.00 Another vineyard who calls the Santa Rosa Plains home, the Martaella Vineyard is planted similarly to those in Burgundy with vines trained low to the ground to keeps the vines warmer overnight. The vineyard is planted to a blend of an heirloom selection of grapes. An opulent wine with high acidity and good fruit concentration, it is elegant, rich and complex, with dark fruit flavors of blueberries, cherries, floral and spice, culminating in long length.
The fires of Beltane have come and gone, ushering in warmer weather and brighter days as we await next month’s Summer Solstice. For me, this means outdoor dining and, while outdoor dining took on new meaning this past year, there’s something about eating outside that generally adds to the ambience (although less so in February — at least in New York). Of course, with lovely weather, verdant lawns, delicious food and great friends, a picnic is an especially lovely experience. Thus, my tiffin box and I were delighted to take to the park recently in search of sun, al fresco fare and good company, accompanied by good wine.
I can still remember one of my first picnics as a young child. I simply draped a cloth on an old tree stump and proceeded to enjoy my lunch. As I got older, my picnics became more elaborate, particularly when my husband and I began to explore the joys of picnicking on our first visit to France together. This is not particularly surprising given that the word pique-nique dates to 17th century France. In any event, we would attend the local farmer’s market, select an assortment of bread, cheeses, meats and a bottle of wine before finding the perfect spot in which to partake of our meal. These pleasant memories set the stage for our future outings in parks, at polo events and elsewhere.
Consequently, today, picnics are a big part of our summer plans and I am always at the ready with my picnic backpack, picnic blanket and the aforementioned tiffin box. While I take great pleasure in the creation of a beautiful meal in a beautiful setting, your ideal picnic might simply be a blanket and baloney sandwiches. Neither one of is right, as long as we are both having a great time!
That being said, I do feel that any meal is elevated by the presence of wine and picnics are no exception. Seek out fresh whites, crisp rosés and bubbles of all shades as refreshing, food friendly and fun options to adorn one’s outdoor feast.
Here are some wonderful wine options to get you started!
WHITES Veramonte Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Casablanca Valley, Chile, $11.99 From the cool Casablanca Valley in Chile, this wine offers up fresh herbal and citrus aromas, which persist on the palate with zippy acidity, medium body and good length. As an organic wine, it represents only a small percentage of Chilean vineyards that have sought out this designation.
Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $45.00 From the highly respected producer, Merry Edwards, this Sauvignon Blanc is a more concentrated option with rich fruit notes of pear and citrus along with an herbal character on the nose. It provides good acidity, is slightly riper than the 2018, with medium-to-full body and very long length. This is a pricier option than the others listed here, but is definitely worth the splurge. For more on Merry Edwards, see these stories: – In Pursuit of Pleasure, Promise and Pinot – Making Merry for the Holidays
Vilarnau Brut Reserva NV, Cava, Spain, $14.99 Cava producer, Vilarnau, has been around since 1949 and is located in the of heart of Catalonia in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, just outside Barcelona. Its current labels pay homage to Antoni Gaudi, whose many masterpieces can be found in the city. Also an organic wine, this traditional blend of Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo, is aged over 15 months in bottle, with toasty, yeasty, apple notes on the nose and palate, good persistence of bubbles, and long length.
Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Extra Dry, Treviso, Italy, $13.00 Founded in 1960, this family-owned winery is now run by Giovanni Corvezzo, who was responsible for converting the vineyards to organic farming in 2013, and has since earned its organic certification in Italy. With a very fresh nose of cotton candy, pear and floral notes, this lovely sparkler is dry on palate, with good persistence of bubbles, vibrant acidity and long length.
ROSES Domaine Bousquet Gaia Rosé 2020, Mendoza, Argentina, $20.00 While I had the pleasure of tasting wine with Anne Bousquet just before the pandemic, this is a new wine from the winery. Produced from 100% Pinot Noir grapes, the nose is redolent of raspberries and strawberries that persist on the dry palate, along with medium+ acidity, medium body and long length.
Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Rosé Extra Dry, Millesimato Treviso, Italy, $13.00 It’s official! Prosecco can now legally be produced as a rosé sparkling wine. Another organic and vegan option from Corvezzo, this wine offers up aromas of berries, cherry and peach, with beautiful freshness on the palate, and a gentle perlage, along with long length.
Vilarnau Brut Reserva RoséDelicat NV, Cava, Spain, $15.99 From the same producer noted above, with its Gaudi-inspired label, this sparkling rosé is soon to be certified organic. A blend of 85% Garnacha and 15% Pinot Noir, the wine displays fresh floral and berry notes with a lovely dry, effervescent palate, and balanced acidity, culminating in long length.
If you desire your own very special picnic without doing all the work, check out Perfect Picnic.
It continues to be a weird year, one which has spilled over into the holiday season as we ushered in Thanksgiving and now await the arrival of the December celebrations. While some people did observe their usual traditions and headed home for the holidays, many took heed and stayed home, gathering around much tinier tables than in years past.
Moreover, we searched for new ways to mark the occasion taking public safety, risk tolerance and other factors into consideration. In this vein, the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade went ahead (sort of) as usual, but with previously taped segments and a lack of crowds.
Similarly, after half a decade of celebrating as a twosome, my husband and I decided to break with our own tradition and welcome a small group of friends (bringing us to a total of 6 people) for the Thanksgiving meal. We planned our menu to incorporate fresh ideas (waffled turkey burger sliders on Hawaiian Dinner Rolls and Mexican Chocolate Spiced Pumpkin Pie) and some old favorites (Butternut Squash Soup and Cranberry-Citrus Chutney), alongside some staples: Brussel Sprouts and Mashed Potatoes.
As we sat down to dinner, we welcomed everyone to the table and dusted off our well-loved tradition of encouraging each guest to share a brag, a gratitude and a desire. We were also delighted to add in a new tradition – choosing American wine for an American holiday. Accordingly, it was a pleasure to share several recently released Merry Edwards’ wines with our assembled guests.
Pinot Noir is always a favorite of mine for Thanksgiving because it is very versatile to pair with the plethora of flavors that permeate the diverse dishes of the holiday. This year was no exception and it was a delight to open up these bottles with our guests who very much enjoyed the delicious indulgence. These wines are similarly suited to other celebratory meals for this same reason.
And, our friend Aleksandra suggested another new tradition, asking each person to list their “firsts” for this year, reframing some of the chaos and confusion the pandemic has wrought on our lives. Among my firsts was making macrons and performing burlesque.
With Thanksgiving in the rearview mirror, it’s time to turn our attention to Chanukah, Kwanza, Christmas and New Year’s, which again will require restraint and resolve as we navigate these times. Yet, we can still enjoy the holidays with good food, good wine and good company, even if the group is smaller than usual.
As the year draws to a close, it is the perfect time to acknowledge all that we are grateful for, while raising a glass in anticipation of better times. Cheers!
TASTNG NOTES
Merry Edwards BUCHER PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00 Named for the Bucher family who founded their dairy here back in 1958, the Bucher Vineyard was initially planted to Pinot in 1997 as part of the family’s initiative to branch out to other industries. The partnership between John and Diane Bucher and Merry and Ken began in 2016 during which Merry selected two hillside blocks to produce this single vineyard wine. These two Butcher blocks total 2.13 acres – essentially just a small spit of land; consequently only 230 cases of this wine are produced. This is the third vintage under this partnership. Aromas of earth, spice, and dried flowers greet the nose. The palate is dry with medium+ body and flavors of black pepper, spice, earth and dried cherries, culminating in long length. We especially enjoyed this one!
Merry Edwards FLAX VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00 Merry has been working with the Flax family since 2004 and has been a strong supporter of this vineyard, expanding the quantity of fruit she purchased as it became available. Her dedication further grew when she made the commitment to take on a long-term lease of the property in 2009. The Flax’ have since sold to Steve and Donna Hicks in 2012, but the relationship continues to this day as the new owners have continued to collaborate with Merry and have also made important improvements such as the installation of pig- and deer-proof fence. Fruit is sourced from a total of 6.9 acres, yielding 720 cases. Fresh floral and berry notes give way to lusher, riper red fruit along with dried and fresh herbs on the palate. The wine offers up bright acidity, medium+ body and long length.
Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $72.00 With 20 planted acres, the Meredith Estate vineyard is the largest property of those featured in this article, resulting in a much larger case production of 1,400. This abandoned apple orchard in the Sebastopol Hills was purchased by Merry in 1996 and planted to Pinot in 1998. They practice sustainable agriculture, with the use of cover crops and other earth-friendly farming approaches. Red and black cherries feature prominently on the nose, with a fruitier profile than the Warren’s Hill, along with notes of wet leaves and an herbal undercurrent. The dry palate provides a decidedly savory note, with medium+ body, high acidity and very long length.
Merry Edwards WARRENS’ HILL PINOT NOIR 2018, Green Valley and Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $66.00 While Merry and Ken have leased this vineyard site since 2009, as the vineyard hit its 20th year, it became evident that replanting was needed. Cuttings from an old vineyard of Lee Martinelli’s were propagated in the nursery and replanted on the site in 2012. The vineyard, formerly planted by Warren Dutton, has now been renamed Warren’s Hill, in memory of Merry’s son, Warren, who passed away in 2006 and had been named in honor of Merry’s friends Warren Dutton and Warren Arnold. Thus, the site’s new name recognizes and honors all three Warrens in Merry’s life. The 5.5 acres produced 440 cases. This wine displays notes of mushroom, herbs, spice, cherry on both the nose and palate with an earthy finish. It offers up bright acidity, medium+ body and long length and was a more elegant expression than the Meredith Estate.
Merry Edwards LATE HARVEST SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $48.00 As a new addition to the Merry Edwards portfolio, this is the first vintage which saw a harvest of Sauvignon Blanc grapes from the Maefield Vineyard, which had been planted in 2015. The vineyard yielded both regularly harvested and late harvest grapes, the latter of which was affected by noble rot and thus permitted the production of this sweet wine. This is not an easy feat in the Russian River Valley, where fog and moisture can easily turn to grey rot instead of the more beneficial botrytis cinera, responsible for creating luscious dessert wines. Not surprisingly, only a small production (250 cases) was made. A pronounced nose of apricots, oranges, flowers with medium sweetness beautifully balanced by high acidity. It is medium+ bodied with flavors of apricot, dried orange, white flowers and long length. It would be lovely paired with custards, fresh fruit and other lighter desserts such as apple pie.
I first tasted Merry Edwards’ wines at the start of the lockdown. Who knew at the time that we’d be relegated to our homes for such a lengthy period of time? These past several months found me poured over an impossi-puzzle (devoting 2+ months to completing a 2,000-piece jigsaw of Van Gogh’s A Starry Night), finishing a paint-by-numbers and reading the 1,000 page Infinite Jest. Plus, engaging in the usual complement of Zoom happy hours, Zoom events, etc.
But, as states open up in varying degrees, there is a new lightness to the air, brought about by longer days of sunshine and the promise of freedom after feeling cooped up for so long. Moreover, with Summer’s arrival and tentative steps toward a return to business as usual (or a close approximation thereof), we are all anxious for live interaction.
A recent weekend provided just that as we hosted our first impromptu mini-dinner party on a Saturday night. We seated everyone one a different side of the table, with less direct face-to-face contact, but other than that, it was just like any other dinner party. Clearly all starved for human contact, our two friends arrived at 6pm and stayed until midnight, as we enjoyed the pleasure of each other’s company for many hours.
I had again been graciously sent several samples from Merry Edwards and since three of the wines were Pinot Noirs, thought it would be fun and informative to open them all up and taste them side by side with our friends. When I offered up the suggestion, no one complained. Once committed to that plan, I knew that we had purchased the Family Pack size of salmon, which incidentally pairs beautifully with Pinot Noir, so we were all set with our menu as well.
We were overdue for cleaning the apartment, so we scoured with gusto to get ready for our guests, and finished up the aforementioned puzzle just in time at 9:30am that morning, which had been taking up extensive real estate on our dining table.
Once our guests arrived, we took our seats and turned our attention to the assembled wines, tasting them one at a time to fully appreciate the aromas and flavors of each one. Like many producers, Merry Edwards makes quite a variety of Pinot Noirs. While all our the product of Pinot Noir grapes, these wines differ in their origin in that they are produced from different appellations and/or specific vineyards.
To the uninitiated, it may seem like overkill or just unnecessary to have such an abundance of Pinots, but each wine has its own unique profile and characteristics despite being produced from the grape variety, having been influenced by the specific growing conditions. Accordingly, it is wonderful to be able to compare and contrast these wines to more easily identify their individual appeal.
Pinot Noir 2018, Sonoma Coast (Pinot Noir 2018 (CA), USA, $48.00 5670 cases produced The first Pinot we tasted hailed from the Sonoma Coast American Viticultural Area (AVA). This swath of land runs from San Pablo Bay to Mendocino County, primarily running along the coastline. Given its close proximity to the Pacific Ocean, the area receives a higher amount of rain than other parts of Sonoma County. However, with most vineyards situated above the fog line, the grapes are able to fully ripen despite the cool climate.
TASTING NOTE: This wine was decidedly focused on fruit, with aromas and flavors of cherries, cola, and some leafy notes. The palate was dry, with bright and lively acidity, medium body and long length.
Pinot Noir 2018 Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $55 5670 cases produced The next wine was from the Russian River Valley AVA, which is situated further inland. The farther distance from the sea makes this area warmer than the coast, but it is still influenced by the fog, which helps cool the area and prolong the growing season. As a result, the grapes grow slowly, maintaining good acidity and achieving full ripeness and phenological maturity.
TASTING NOTE: Compared to the Sonoma Coast Pinot, this wine offered up darker fruit and more herbal characteristics with dried sage, black cherry and blackberry. This dry wine had high acidity, medium body and was lush on the palate, culminating in long length.
Pinot Noir 2018 Klopps Ranch, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $55.00 930 cases produced The last of the trio was also from the Russian River Valley AVA, but all of the fruit for this wine came from the Klopps Ranch. This 37-acre property was initially planted in 1989 with input sought from Merry from the very beginning. The land has great drainage and a moderate climate, further adding to the quality of the grapes, which are deliberately kept to low yields. The wines from this vineyard generally offer up good fruit character with lush richness.
TASTING NOTE: I found this wine to be slightly shy on the nose, but once it opened up, there was a profusion of mushroom, herb and earthy notes. It was dry with high acidity, medium+ body and a complex flavors of spice, cherry, black cherry and herbs plus long length.
Chardonnay Olivet Lane 2017, Sonoma County (CA), USA, $68.00 630 cases produced
We also had the great pleasure in tasting Merry Edwards’ Olivet Lane Chardonnay at an earlier meal, which was an exquisite match for seared scallops. The Olivet Lane Vineyard totals 60 acres, 24 of which are planted to Chardonnay (and 22 of which are planted to Pinot Noir). This land has been owned by the Pelligrini family since 1973 at which point they converted the fruit and olive orchards to vineyards, with guidance from a professor at UC Davis. Over time, this vineyard has developed a stellar reputation for its classic style and its grapes are highly sought after.
TASTING NOTE: Aromas of vanilla and wood greeted the nose. The dry, full-bodied palate presented with rich nuttiness, medium acidity and notes of apple, wood, vanilla and minerality, along with long length.
Time will tell if we’ll need to hunker down again in isolation, but for we are are enjoying our new-found freedom and the promise of summer.
This moment in time continues to be challenging for us all as the world grapples with both the pandemic and protests. The uncertainty for what it will all mean in the future is unsettling, but I am choosing to find hope amidst the pain.
Last week found me on a socially distant, “Pandemic Playdate” in the local park with my friend. She supplied the colored pencils and I brought a bottle of wine. The page I had selected to color that day read:
It is at this moment, when things appear so bleak that we must redouble our efforts and not give up. We must believe that we can remake the world in a more peaceful reality. ~Cynthia McKinney
I was in a dark place that afternoon, but this quote touched me deeply.
As we move forward to remake the world, I am holding my hopes and dreams in my heart and in my mind even though I don’t know when they will come to fruition. Along these lines, while some people leap straight into pursuing their passions, others wait patiently for their dreams to come true.
Ron Rubin first dreamt of having his own winery while a student at UC Davis. That was back in 1971. But life had other plans for Ron. In 1972, he returned home to Illinois and entered the family business, Central Wholesale Liquor Co., bringing innovation and expansion over his 22 year tenure with the company before moving on to become a top seller of Clearly Canadian Sparking Water.
Yet, he never forgot about his dream.
Forty years later, Ron parlayed his success into the purchase of River Road Family Vineyards and Winery, in the Russian River Valley’s Green Valley, renaming the winery Ron Rubin Winery. He had finally manifested his dream!
Not one to rest on his laurels, Ron threw himself into his new venture, earning himself the honor of Innovator of the Year Award from the North Bay Business Journal in 2016.
And, interestingly, while wine continues to be an important passion, his love of beverages is quite broad. In this regard, Ron was so inspired by the book The Republic of Tea that he made an offer to the authors (and owners of The Republic of Tea), Mel and Patricia Ziegler, to purchase their company back in 1994.
Beyond beverages, Ron’s other guiding passion is philanthropy, giving both his financial support and business acumen to numerous causes including serving on the Board for Sonoma State University’s Wine Business Institute; donating to Wine Spectator Learning Center’s state-of-the-art education complex; funding The Maynard Amerine Wine Label and Menu Collection, at U.C. Davis; and establishing the Ron Rubin Winery TRAINED FOR “SAVING LIVES” program.
This latter program was launched in 2017 in collaboration with the American Red Cross and ZOLL Medical Corporation, with the Ron Rubin Winery covering the cost of supplying qualifying California wineries with a ZOLL AED PLUS (Automated External Defibrillator) unit.
In keeping with his life-long pursuit, Ron’s top wines are part of his Dream Series and include two Chardonnays and a Pinot Noir.
TASTING NOTES Ron Rubin Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2018, $20.00 A bit shy on the nose, but really lovely on the dry palate with medium acidity, medium+ body and complex flavors of melon, apple, a slight woody note and vanilla, culminating in long length.
Ron Rubin Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2017, $25.00 With berry and cherry aromas on the nose, this beautiful wine offers up good acidity, fresh cherry fruit, slight leafy notes and long length on the palate.
