Category Archives: Tasting Notes

Far from Ordinary: The Ordinary Fellow wines from Colorado

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While Colorado is most usually associated with beer (and, in fact, the Colorado Rockies baseball team’s stadium bears the name of its sponsor, Coors Brewing), you might find it surprising to know that the state is also home to over 170 wineries. Moreover, wine production in Colorado dates back to 1890 when the state’s governor, George A. Crawford, planted 60 acres of wine grapes. 

Admittedly, this is not a state that comes to mind when thinking of wine, but I am always game to try and expand my statutory wine knowledge. Thus, when I received the opportunity to taste samples from The Ordinary Fellow, I jumped at the chance and enlisted my friend, Ron, who previously joined me for Virginia and California tastings, to taste through a selection of these wines with me. The remainder were enjoyed at the table for Thanksgiving. As wines “born in the USA,” they were perfect options for this American holiday.

The Ordinary Fellow is much more recent that Colorado’s historic beginnings, having been established in 2021, by long-time winemaker, Ben Parsons. Parsons earned his degree in oenology from the University of Adelaide in Australia and has been (and continues to be) involved in numerous wine ventures, including one with a focus on canned wine. Originally from the UK, his latest winery launch is named for his hometown pub.

Situated in Colorado’s Grand Valley AVA, the winery sources from vineyards growing at elevations of 6,500 feet above sea level. With hot, dry, sunny days and cool nights, grapes are able to fully ripen while maintaining good acidity levels.

The eye-catching labels sport the slogan “Humble wine for the curious mind,” and other interesting phrases that appear to be quasi tasting notes. Further, they are interactive with outer sleeve silhouettes that can be rotated full circle to display alternate images and text.

With absolutely no exposure to Colorado wines prior to our tasting, we weren’t sure what to expect from them, but we were very impressed with their quality. The wines showed beautifully, displaying complexity, balance, concentration and length. My favorite of the selection was the Pinot Noir, but they were all really lovely, well-made wines and a pleasure to enjoy with friends over good food and good conversation.

Of note, these are boutique wines with small production (225-450 cases per wine) and while not inexpensive, they are reasonably priced for the quality and limited production.

TASTING NOTES

The Ordinary Fellow Sparkling Blanc De Noirs of Pinot Noir 2022, Colorado (USA), $48.00
Fresh, with citrus, slight yeast and nuts, green apple, beautiful effervescence, long length. [225 case production]

The Ordinary Fellow Riesling 2021 Colorado Box Bar Vineyard, Colorado (USA), $24.00
With grapes sourced from the Box Bar Vineyard, a growing site just south of Cortez, CO on the slopes of the Sleeping Ute Mountain overlooking Mesa Verde National Park, this wine has a 420 case production (this is the Rocky Mountain High state after all). Displays a typical Riesling nose of lemon, lime, slight petrol and minerality. On the palate, it is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, lime, mineral, chalk and petrol, long length, very nice. [Low residual sugar of less than 1 g/l]

The Ordinary Fellow Chardonnay 2022, Colorado Box Bar Vineyard, Colorado (USA), $34.00
Made from 100% Chardonnay grapes from the Box Bar Vineyard, which, at a 6500 elevation is one of the highest vineyard sites in the state. Notes of butter, a hint of nuts and yeast, rich and ripe with apple, medium+ body, good acidity and long length. [375 case production]

The Ordinary Fellow Rose of Pinot Noir 2022, Colorado Hawk’s Nest Vineyard, Colorado (USA), $27.00
The Pinot Noir grapes for this wine and that of the next one are grown at 6800 feet in elevation, which is outside Dolores, CO in the Montezuma Valley. Produced from 100% Pinot Noir, this is a lovely, fresh wine with peach, strawberry and floral notes, with tart strawberry, bright acidity, medium body, cherry, with a restrained elegance, which we greatly appreciated. The Tech Sheet suggested aromas of marijuana – none of us agreed, but we did all chuckle.

The Ordinary Fellow Pinot Noir 2022, Colorado Hawk’s Nest Vineyard, Colorado (USA), $37.00
Produced from 100% Pinot Noir and aged in 3-year-old French oak, medium+ toast, this wine offered up a beautiful nose, restrained and elegant with cherry, berry and floral notes, giving way to some herbal undercurrents, with vibrant acidity, medium body and culminating in very long length.

The Ordinary Fellow Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Colorado Box Bar Vineyard, Colorado (USA), $39.00
Aromas of blackberry, slight herbal notes, and slight oak, all of which persist on the palate, along with full body, bright acidity and long length. [350 case production]


Great Grapes: Call me Carménère

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As I wrote about last year (See story), an important shift in the Chilean wine landscape has been the recognition of what grapes are actually being grown in the vineyards. More specifically, a big emphasis has been on the grape variety, Carménère. If you are unfamiliar (or less familiar) with Carménère, you are not alone. In fact, the Chileans mistook Carménère for Merlot for decades, only correctly identifying it in Chilean vineyards in 1994. Carménère has now been embraced as a singularly Chilean variety, gaining respect and an understanding for how to grow and produce this grape.

This sister variety to Cabernet Sauvignon gets its name from the French word carmin, which translates as crimson, given the variety’s deep red color. It originally hails from France’s Bordeaux region, where it was among the red grapes permitted for Bordeaux wines back in the day. While it is still allowed, it is not readily found in France these days. By 1994, as it was rediscovered in Chile, less than 25 acres could be found in the Médoc, while today there are only 197 acres in total remaining in France.

In contrast, in that same year (1994), over 8,500 acres of supposed Merlot turned out to be Carménère. This figure has grown to 25,500 acres in 2021, after peaking at 34,000 in 2014 and, presently, Chile boasts the most Carménère vines in the world. Currently, there is a diverse mix of old vines – some as old as 80 years – and newer plantings, providing winemakers with a range of options from which to craft their wines.

With Cabernet Franc as the parent variety for both Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère, it is not surprising that the two share many of Cabernet Franc’s characteristics, including the pyrazine-influenced aromas and flavors. Most often described as green pepper or herbaceous notes, these aroma compounds shift more toward spicy, fruity flavors when the Carménère grapes are more fully ripe.

In this regard, Carménère can be produced in either a riper or cooler style, depending on what the winemaker hopes to achieve. Consequently, very ripe grapes display lots of spice, with darker fruit characteristics, yet often yield wines that are high in alcohol, body and intensity due to the warmer climate, extra time on the vine or both. Conversely, cooler climates and soils are more likely to produce wines with more pronounced vegetal aromas. Given the reduction in green pepper aromas, warmer regions, such as the Colchagua and Cachapoal Valleys, have had significant success with Carménère.

However, this robust style peaked in 2010 and has been on the decline in favor of a less ripe profile in more recent years. In particular, this stylistic shift was heralded in 2017 with the release of the Carménère Santa Rita Floresta. Since then, winemakers have strived to respect the vegetal characteristics and create balanced wines with both red and dark fruit flavors, along with more moderate alcohol and body.

Regardless of one’s preferred style, these wines are well made and generally provide a good price to quality ratio. A recent round up tasting included the wines below, which offered up a range of styles and price points. We were particularly impressed with the
Viña San Esteban In Situ Carménère Reserva 2020, which, at $13.00, overdelivered and was a pleasure to drink.

I strongly encourage you to check out Chilean Carménère, but, love it or hate it, don’t call it Merlot!

TASTING NOTES

InVina Luma Chequen Gran Reserva Carmenere 2020, Valle del Maule, Chile, $17.00
Aromas of blackberry and oak greet the nose. The dry palate offers up vibrant acidity, medium+ body and rustic tannins, with flavors of blueberries and spice, with long length.

Morandé Vitis Única Carménère 2021, Maipo Valley, Chile, $20.00
This wine shows notes of leather, earth and plum, which persist on the dry, full-bodied palate. It displays medium+ acidity, textural tannins and has long length.

Viña San Esteban In Situ Carmenere Reserva 2020, Aconcagua Valley, Chile, $13.00
A really lovely wine, especially at this price, the wine offers up aromas of smoke, blackberry, and oak, with very peppery and spicy notes. The full-bodied palate is dry, with medium acidity, medium body, ripe tannins and flavors of coffee, blackberry, earth, spice with long length.

Primus Carmenere 2020, DO Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Chile, $21.00
A very elegant wine produced from organic grapes, this wine has a fruity nose with black and blue fruit. The dry palate has medium+ body, medium acidity, and ripe, medium tannins, along with flavors of black and blue fruit, spice and cocoa and very long length.

TerraNoble CA2 2020 Carmenere Costa 2020, Colchagua Valley, Chile, $36.00
A beautifully complex wine with meaty, spicy, leafy and black cherry aromas. The palate is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium-to-full body, and ripe tannins. Blueberry and dried herbs dominate the palate, culminating in very long length.

Montes Wings Carmenere 2020, Apalta Valley, Chile, $55.00
Aromas of leafy herbs, red berries, and plum continue on the dry, smooth palate along with full body, medium acidity, oak, and very long length. Overall, a complex and elegant wine with fine tannins. You can learn more about Aurelio Montes, Sr. and Aurelio Montes, Jr. and the Montes winery in this story.


Clambake Wines, wines for all seasons, not just summer

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While summer and clambakes are behind us for now, the wines that accompany them don’t have to be put on hold. In this regard, winemaker Mary McAuley and her Clambake Wines are great accompaniments at the table anytime of year. And, with their luscious fruit and lovely minerality, these wines are actually a wonderful option for Thanksgiving, given their versatility and vibrant acidity.

Mary produces her wines under her Ripe Life Wines company and was first inspired to do so when she was less than satisfied with the options available when selecting wines for a friends’ annual clambake. A certified sommelier and graduate of the French Culinary Institute, Mary decided to solve the problem by making her own wine. Thus, her single-vineyard, Unoaked Chardonnay and Limited Edition Rose, were crafted in response. More recently, she added the Moules Blanc de Blancs Brut to her seafood-themed portfolio. Made with 100% sustainable grapes sourced from the Lodi Valley (CA), this methode champenoise sparkler is produced from 100% Chardonnay grapes.

TASTING NOTES

Clambake Moules Blanc de Blancs Brut NV, Clements Hills California, USA, $36.50
With butter and citrus aromas on the nose, the mousse is a bit aggressive, but displays lively acidity, with butter, minerality, and salinity on the medium bodied palate. Long length.

Clambake Wines Chardonnay Batch 6 2022, Mendocino (CA), USA, $19.99

Aromas of minerality and butter greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is fresh, with citrus and red apple flavors, medium-plus body, a slight toothpick texture and lovely, long length.

Clambake Wines Limited Edition Rose of Pinot Noir 2022, Redwood Valley AVA (CA), USA, $19.99

Hailing from the Hawkeye Vineyard, this rose is produced from 100% Pinot Noir grapes. It offers up notes of melon and strawberry. The dry palate shows bright acidity, medium body, with simple, but fresh and good fruit, culminating in long length.

The More the Merrier with Merry Edwards Wines

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Each year, I have the good fortune to hear from the PR person who represents Merry Edwards Winery offering me the opportunity to taste through the current selection of releases. And, every year, I gratefully accept and yet somehow take months to drink through the wines. I am a diligent and dependable person who meets deadlines at the office and yet these bottles linger in my wine cellar for months. Case in point, I received this latest set of wines in late May and yet here it is mid-September and I have only just finished tasting the last of the wines this week. Why?

Why indeed? I gave this quite some thought as the item to taste (and then write) about these wines languished on my “to do” list month after month.

Well, for one thing, I generally prefer to taste these wines alongside a lovely meal, share them with friends and family or both. These are special wines that I truly enjoy drinking with good company, eager to give others the opportunity to taste them as well. In this regard, I sometimes wait for the “perfect” dinner or the “special” occasion rather than just opening them up on a random Tuesday with leftovers. And, while there is nothing wrong with this in theory, in practice it means that lots of time lapses in between tastings.

Recognizing this propensity in myself, I chose to adopt a different philosophy over the past two weeks. We are likely all familiar with the phrase “Life’s too short to drink bad wine,” but it is true in that life is too short… period. End of sentence. We should celebrate the time we have and enjoy it to the best of our abilities. For some (myself included), the price point on these wines means that you can only indulge in them occasionally, but really, while these are, indeed, special wines, they don’t require a special occasion or the perfect moment to drink them. Thus, in accordance with this new approach, I changed tactics and drank the last three bottles in close proximity to each other. I was now done with tasting and could move on to writing. 

In this regard, I often write about the climate and soil of the vineyards where the grapes for these wines are grown (see here for previous stories), which is relevant given that five of the wines below are of the same grape variety and it is their distinct environment that sets them apart from one another and accounts for many of the differences among them. But, at the end of the day, it is what the wine tastes like in your glass that has the most meaning, irrespective of microclimates and soil types.

Thus, what is perhaps more important to you, the reader, is identifying the style of the resulting wine and equally critical, the set and setting in which one drinks it. We all have preferences for different styles of wine, all of which are valid. Taking time to savor the aromas and flavors, seeing how the wine develops in the glass over the course of one’s meal and simply being in a great frame of mind — whether alone or joined by others — all contribute to our enjoyment, much more so than the formality of the meal or day of the week.

So, here are my tasting notes for each of these wines, along with the set and setting (to the best of my recollection as I wasn’t planning on including that information). I hope you will find a style that appeals to your palate and seek it out to sip and savor as we celebrate this thing called life!

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc
2021, Sonoma County (CA), USA, $48.00
Complex aromas of herbs, smoke, citrus/tangerine greet the nose and persist on the palate with vibrant acidity, medium+ body and long length. I opened up this bottle with dinner featuring tuna steaks on Monday, July 3 (the eve of the July 4th holiday) to celebrate the deep bonds of friendship that my husband and I share with our dear friend Gisela, all of whom greatly appreciated this wonderful wine.

Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $75.00
Redolent of ripe, dark cherries, herbs, cocoa and a hint of leather, this rich and robust wine was dry on the palate with bright acidity, medium+ body and very long length. My friend Rob and I spent the weekend of June 30-July 2 at the Riverwind Inn B&B in Deep River, CT and opened up this bottle to toast our weekend away, sitting on balcony and taking in the view of the property’s gardens.

Merry Edwards Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $65.00
Very herbal in character, this wine offers up plum and cherries, with notes of both fresh and dried herbs. The dry palate had medium acidity, medium+ body, noticeable yet ripe tannins and long length. While not deliberately opened up in honor of Bastille Day, I did enjoy this wine with dinner with my husband on Friday, July 14. I don’t recall what we ate, but we definitely loved the wine!

Merry Edwards Georganne Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $70.00
This wine was more fruit driven than the others, but was still quite elegant, with dark cherry aromas and flavors and a slight earthy character. The palate displayed bright acidity, medium+ body and dusty tannins, culminating in long length. I shared this wine on Saturday, September 9 with my aforementioned friend, Rob, at his home in Stamford, CT where we collaborated on creating a delicious lentil and sweet potato dish from the New York Times (find the recipe online here). NB: Dish is pictured above.

Merry Edwards Coopersmith Pinot Noir 2021, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $70.00
This wine displayed floral aromas along with red and black cherries and berries on the nose and palate. It had good acidity, with medium body and long length. As a quiet moment before the hustle and bustle of the week ahead, my husband and I shared this bottle of wine over dinner (pasta with pesto sauce and parmesan cheese) on Sunday, September 10.

Merry Edwards Dach Pinot Noir 2021, Anderson Valley (CA), USA, $75.00
The most structured of the bunch, this wine provided a variety of aromas and flavors including herbs, dark red fruit and earth, with an herbal undercurrent. It had firm tannins, full body and long length on the dry, vibrant palate. While my husband was away for the weekend,
on Friday, September 15, I celebrated the end of my work week with dinner on my own, which consisted of yummy pork chops wrapped in bacon and rosemary and this beautiful wine. Then I continued to enjoy the wine as I binge-watched Glow Up on Netflix.

Mapping Marlborough

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High resolution maps can be purchased online.

If you are familiar with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, chances are that it was from Marlborough. This region, situated on the South Island, has been a staunch supporter of this grape variety and is credited with putting it on the world stage with its bold style. Of course, Marlborough successfully grows other grapes such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

With the region’s growth and popularity, member wineries have banded together to ensure that their appellation is protected through the creation of Appellation Marlborough Wine (AMW), which was trademark registered in 2018.

More recently, AMW released the ‘Wine Map of Marlborough’ as a way to delineate the wine-growing region in more detail. AMW’s primary purpose is to guarantee origin and typicity of the Marlborough wines as well as to safeguard the region for the future through its commitment to sustainability processes and standards. Any wine bearing the AMW mark is guaranteed to be produced from 100% Marlborough grapes.

In keeping with this mission, AMW commissioned New Zealand cartographer, Roger Smith, and local designer, Megan Boreham to produce this official map. The venture took two years, but the map’s debut in 2023 beautifully coincides with the 50th anniversary of the first commercial planting of grapevines within Marlborough. Moreover, the project seeks to recognize the micro-climates and diverse soil types found within Marlborough and, additionally, it codifies formal borders for areas that have been identified more colloquially over the past several decades. The map is considered to be a work in progress as borders are more clearly defined and new sub-regions are introduced.

For now, the Marlborough region can be subdivided into three main macroregions: Wairau; Awatere and Blind River; and Southern Coast. Within each, there are further demarcations of sub-appellations such as Lower Wairu and Central Wairu within Wairau. 

Of course, maps are great resources and tools, but if you are really looking to discover Marlborough’s wines, the best way to do so is to pick up a bottle and enjoy it.

TASTING NOTES
Here are a few Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs that I recently enjoyed:

Catalina Sounds Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, NZ, $27
Pronounced nose, jumped out of the glass with aromas of grass, cat’s pee, grapefruit and lime. The palate was bright and lively, with fresh citrus fruit, medium body, medium-plus acidity and long length.


Mount Riley, Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, NZ
Less pronounced than the Catalina Sounds, but certainly no shrinking violet. Aromas of lemon, lemon candy and slight hint of herbs greet the nose, joined by minerality on the palate, with vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.

Spy Valley, Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, NZ, $22
This wine is beautifully aromatic with minerality, honeysuckle, herbs and lemon/citrus, all of which persist on the palate. Good acidity, medium bodied, culminating in long length.





Fun times with fresh wines, Rioja’s El Coto wines

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A Not-So-Silent Disco with El Coto…

Last week we were excited to participate in a Silent Disco event at Fort Tryon Park with friends and neighbors. Yet, at the last minute, the event was postponed due to inclement weather. Yuck! (And good call on the organizers’ part as dancing in the rain with expensive headphones isn’t a great idea). But, we were disappointed not to get together and enjoy each other’s company.

Accordingly, we moved the celebration indoors, sans dancing, and invited the group to gather at our apartment. I offered up wine; our neighbors said they’d bring snacks. True to their word, H and T arrived at our door with a tray, bearing cheeses, salami, fruit and crackers. Meanwhile, I had set the table with a few snacks of our own and had chilled several wines from El Coto. Situated in Spain’s Rioja region, this winery was established in 1970 and is still going strong.

Despite the wet weather, it was still a hot and muggy summer night, so we were all eager to enjoy some chilled wines. The El Coto Blanco and El Coto Rose were the perfect options to pair with our impromptu party!

I opened up the rose first and the bottle was soon empty (a clear crowd favorite!), necessitating that we turn our attention to the white, which was also greatly appreciated by our guests. As it grew late, we wrapped up our conversations, and cleaned up as everyone soon cleared out. All in all, it was a lovely evening!

A few days later, I opened up the El Coto Crianza, which had been touted as being a red wine capable of being chilled. My previous experience with chilled reds has been primarily limited to Beaujolais and other fresh and fruity reds; I wondered how the Rioja would fare with time in the fridge. I needn’t have worried; it was really nice and paired well with my leftover paella.

Looking for refreshing wines to enjoy on a hot summer day? Look no further than this trio from El Coto!

TASTING NOTES

El Coto Blanco 2022, Rioja, Spain, SRP $11.99


This wine is a blend of 93% Viura, 4% Sauvignon Blanc and 3% Verdejo. It displays notes of citrus and pear on the nose. The dry palate provides medium acidity, medium body and flavors of citrus, pear and apple, culminating in long length.

El Coto Rose 2021, Rioja, Spain, SRP $11.99

Bringing together Rioja’s traditional Tempranillo (90% ) and Garnacha (10%), this beautifully-hued salmon pink wine offered up aromas and flavors of raspberry and strawberry. It is fresh and lively, with medium acidity, medium body, and medium plus length. Easy drinking and very food friendly.

El Coto Crianza 2019, Rioja, Spain, SRP $16.99

Sporting 100% Tempranillo, this wine was aged in oak for at least 12 months with an additional six months in bottle, prior to release, as befits its Crianza designation. Aromas of wood, blackberry and raspberry greet the nose. The palate is dry, with bright acidity, flavors of berries, oak and spice, with medium plus body and medium length.

It’s Duck Season: Drinking the Natural Path Wines from Duck Pond Cellars

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It’s the duck days of summer. It’s been super hot and then…not! But, if you are a lucky duck, you’ve got Duck Pond Cellars’ wines in your glass. In particular, their Natural Path Production wines perfectly hit the spot whether it’s 70F or 90F.

The Dundee, Oregon-based winery was founded in 1993 and has always been committed to sustainability. Its grapes are organically farmed and hand-harvested, with continued attention to detail once they reach the winery. More recently, they have become involved in the Clean Label Project, a non-profit organization “whose mission is to bring truth and transparency to food and consumer product labeling.”

Launched under the Natural Path Production line, Duck Pond’s first wines were certified by this organization with the 2020 vintage, making them the first wines in America to receive this certification.

In adherence to the certification program, the ingredients are clearly stated on the label. Additionally, they testify to low sulfite use (<=100 PPM), vegan-only fining agents and the non-use of Glyphosate and Neonicotinoid pesticides.

Equally important to Duck Pond’s focus on natural production, is that these wines are well made and well-priced, ranging from $15-$19 per bottle (winery prices; might be higher at your local wine shop). As of now, there are four wines in the Natural Path line up: Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Rose (not tasted) and Pinot Noir.

Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Pinot Gris 2022, Willamette Valley (OR), USA, $16.00
On the nose, this wine displays notes of tangerine and smoke, which persist on the dry palate. The wine is quite luscious, with bright acidity, medium body and long length.

Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Chardonnay 2021, Oregon, USA, $15.00
This wine offers up melon and butter aromas and flavors, and an oak undercurrent, with medium acidity, medium plus body, and long length. It was a crowd pleaser at a recent gathering of friends.

Duck Pond Cellars Natural Path Production Pinot Noir 2021, Oregon, USA, $19.00
Fresh aromas of cherry and raspberry greet the nose. The dry palate provides ripe black cherries, herbs, and an earthy undercurrent, with medium plus acidity, medium plus body and medium plus length. Really lovely.


Summer Sippers: 2023 Edition

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Summertime… and the living is easy (or at least less encumbered compared to winter – no hats, gloves or scarves or bulky winter coats).

The Summer Solstice is upon us, and, although the weather doesn’t quite feel like it, it is indeed summertime and the season for barbecues, picnics and other outdoor endeavors. It’s a great time to gravitate towards fresh whites, lighter reds and the ubiquitous roses. Sparkling wines are also a fabulous option for this time of year (check out my story on Moscato d’Asti).

Villa Maria EarthGarden Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, New Zealand, $20.00
From one of my favorite NZ producers, this wine is produced as a blend of 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes harvested from several vineyards, all of which are sustainably grown. What that means is that the vineyards are free from synthetic pesticides and herbicides and are planted with a plethora of wildflowers to attract bees and beneficial insects. The nose offers up pronounced aromas of grapefruit and a slight herbal note. The medium bodied palate is fresh and bright, with grapefruit, herbs and the addition of lime, culminating in long length.

Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2021, Barossa Valley, Australia, $14.00
This wine underwent wild fermentation and lees aging, both of which add depth and complexity to the wine. With distinct floral, tangerine and tropical fruit aromas on the nose, the full bodied palate provides good acidity, joined by flavors of ginger and citrus, with long length.


C’Est La Vie Pinot Noir Syrah 2020, Vin de Pays, France, $13.00
From Burgundian producer, Albert Bichot, this red blend (60% Pinot Noir and 40% Syrah) is a fresh and lively, easy drinking wine that’s perfect for a picnic or barbecue. With aromas of spice, earth, smoke and berries, it is dry, yet ripe, on the palate with medium+ acidity, medium+ body and medium+ length.

Moscato d’Asti: In an Asti vibe

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Are you in an Asti vibe? A recent Masterclass was the perfect opportunity to reacquaint myself with these sweet, sparkling wines from Italy’s Piedmont region. With the goal of transferring the grape to the glass, these wines benefit from the Moscato Bianco grape variety’s highly aromatic character.

Situated within Piedmont is the province of Asti, at the foot of the Italian Alps. The climate is influenced by both the mountains and its proximity to the sea and the soils are comprised of ancient sea beds. Viticulture must be manual due to the significantly steep vineyards. The various altitudes and variety of soils conspire to produce a range of aromatic compounds that provide complexity in the glass.

Here, Moscato Bianco grapes have been grown in the area since 1510, a transplant from the Middle East. There are 51 towns who lay claim to the Moscato d’Asti DOCG, which was the first sparkling wine produced in Italy back in 1865 by Carlo Gancia.

Utilizing the Charmat Method, the wines are pressurized in stainless steel tanks,
preserving the aromatics in the wine and adding a slight effervescence, with a maximum of 2 bars of pressure (by contrast Champagne and other fully sparkling wines have 5 yo 6 bars of pressure).

The production method also requires that the wines maintain sweetness. Consequently, they generally range from 120-150 g/l of residual sugar, which is well balanced with sufficient acidity and bubbles. This also means that these wines are much lower in alcohol with 5-6% alcohol by volume.

With this lightness, freshness and lower alcohol, these are great wines for the heat of summer and are a perfect pairing with fruit, light desserts or an excellent counterbalance to a salty, savory dish such as prosciutto with melon.

TASTING NOTES

Coppo Moncalvina Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy
Coppo has been making Moscato since day one of the winery, among its other wines. Aromas of floral notes, gardenia and pear greet the nose. The palate is medium sweet, light bodied, with good effervescence and freshness. The acidity and sweetness are well balanced, with flavors of lemon candy and floral, culminating in long length.

Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy
At Chiarlo, they take great pride in managing the Moscato vineyards with the same care they give to Barolo vines. The wine displayed lots of visible bubbles, with aromas of peach and blossom. The palate was less sweet than the Coppo, with great acidity, light body, peach flavors, persistent bubbles, and long length.

Caudrina La Caudrina Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy
Redolent of honeysuckle, this wine is medium sweet, yet fresh, with lovely effervescence; flavors of honey, honeysuckle and hint of herbs; culminating in medium+ length.

I Vignaioli di Santo Stefano – Ceretto Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy
A fresh nose with honey and cantaloupe aromas and flavors, this wine is off dry, with bright and lively acidity on the palate. The mouthwatering character of the wine lingers in the medium+ length.

Marenco Scrapona Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy
The mention of Scrapona on the label refers to a specific vineyard from which the grapes for this wine are harvested. Slight skin contact resulting in a hint of color. White flowers, fresh, balanced, lightly sweet, pear, honey, long length with a clean finish.

Another Pineau to Know: Pineau des Charentes

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Fortified wines aren’t very well known among most consumers, And, no, it has nothing to do with vitamins. Rather, the fortification comes in the form of the addition of a grape-based spirit to raise the alcohol level and consequently halt the fermentation process. As a result, some of the sweetness in the wine remains instead of being fully converted to alcohol as would be the case with a dry wine.

While Port, Sherry and Madeira are more recognizable in this category, Pineau des Charentes is definitely deserving of consideration. It hails from the Charente and Charente-Maritime regions of France, which is where Cognac is made and has had Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status since 1945, which guarantees quality and an adherence to minimum production requirements.

In particular, it must be aged for at least 18 months, 12 of which must be spent in oak. Wines designated as “old” must age for a minimum of seven years, while the “very old” must age for 12 years. Produced from Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Folle Blanche and other local grape varieties, it shares many similarities with Cognac, but are generally sweet wines, with an alcohol level of 17% (compared to 40% proof Cognac).

Not surprisingly, with its freshness and lower alcohol, it is well suited to cocktails. In fact, it is quite versatile and diverse in its expression, yielding a wide range of options. These wines can also be enjoyed on their own and can be a great pairing throughout the meal – not just with dessert – despite their sweetness. Rather, they are quite food friendly, a point made abundantly clear at a recent dinner at l’Accolade in New York City’s West Village neighborhood.

Presided over by Ms. Franky Marshall, who bills herself as a modern bartender, the evening got off to a great start with a Pineau & Tonic with thyme and grapefruit, which beautifully displayed the freshness, balance and aromatics of this wine. Franky has been working with Pineau des Charentes since 2017, and, once we were seated, paired each dish with a different Pineau option. In this fashion, she joked that we were “speed dating” the wines.

I was very impressed with the breadth and depth of what was in the glass and really enjoyed drinking the Pineaus with the meal.

With my Coconut Shrimp appetizer, prepared with coconut, peanut dressing and a pepper cabbage salad, I enjoyed two Pineau des Charentes. The first of which was distinctly floral with maple aromas and flavors, while the second option was more intense and heavier in its texture and weight on the palate. They each matched well, but I was more partial to the former, as a counterpoint to the dressing.

My main course of Monkfish served with zuchini, shrimp nage and mango puree was accompanied by one with caramel notes and a clean finish and another that was lighter, with bright acidity. Both were really lovely with the richness of the dish.

For dessert, I had the chocolate mousse with almondine, orange chocolate cake and almond puree. My Pineau pairings included a wine with light citrus notes that was medium sweet yet well balanced, with an herbal undercurrent. The other was more complex, with fuller body, caramel, burnt orange and rancio aromas and flavors, that had been aged for 15 years. The two wines paired really well, but the second wine was my favorite of the two for its complexity and rancio character.

If these wines are not on your radar (and likely they aren’t), I encourage you to seek them out or perhaps encourage your favorite bartender to try their hand at Pineau cocktails – for a twist on a classic or their own, new creation.

For more information on Pineau des Charentes, check out the Pineau Academy: https://pineauacademy.com/