Category Archives: Sparkling Wine

Far from Ordinary: The Ordinary Fellow wines from Colorado

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While Colorado is most usually associated with beer (and, in fact, the Colorado Rockies baseball team’s stadium bears the name of its sponsor, Coors Brewing), you might find it surprising to know that the state is also home to over 170 wineries. Moreover, wine production in Colorado dates back to 1890 when the state’s governor, George A. Crawford, planted 60 acres of wine grapes. 

Admittedly, this is not a state that comes to mind when thinking of wine, but I am always game to try and expand my statutory wine knowledge. Thus, when I received the opportunity to taste samples from The Ordinary Fellow, I jumped at the chance and enlisted my friend, Ron, who previously joined me for Virginia and California tastings, to taste through a selection of these wines with me. The remainder were enjoyed at the table for Thanksgiving. As wines “born in the USA,” they were perfect options for this American holiday.

The Ordinary Fellow is much more recent that Colorado’s historic beginnings, having been established in 2021, by long-time winemaker, Ben Parsons. Parsons earned his degree in oenology from the University of Adelaide in Australia and has been (and continues to be) involved in numerous wine ventures, including one with a focus on canned wine. Originally from the UK, his latest winery launch is named for his hometown pub.

Situated in Colorado’s Grand Valley AVA, the winery sources from vineyards growing at elevations of 6,500 feet above sea level. With hot, dry, sunny days and cool nights, grapes are able to fully ripen while maintaining good acidity levels.

The eye-catching labels sport the slogan “Humble wine for the curious mind,” and other interesting phrases that appear to be quasi tasting notes. Further, they are interactive with outer sleeve silhouettes that can be rotated full circle to display alternate images and text.

With absolutely no exposure to Colorado wines prior to our tasting, we weren’t sure what to expect from them, but we were very impressed with their quality. The wines showed beautifully, displaying complexity, balance, concentration and length. My favorite of the selection was the Pinot Noir, but they were all really lovely, well-made wines and a pleasure to enjoy with friends over good food and good conversation.

Of note, these are boutique wines with small production (225-450 cases per wine) and while not inexpensive, they are reasonably priced for the quality and limited production.

TASTING NOTES

The Ordinary Fellow Sparkling Blanc De Noirs of Pinot Noir 2022, Colorado (USA), $48.00
Fresh, with citrus, slight yeast and nuts, green apple, beautiful effervescence, long length. [225 case production]

The Ordinary Fellow Riesling 2021 Colorado Box Bar Vineyard, Colorado (USA), $24.00
With grapes sourced from the Box Bar Vineyard, a growing site just south of Cortez, CO on the slopes of the Sleeping Ute Mountain overlooking Mesa Verde National Park, this wine has a 420 case production (this is the Rocky Mountain High state after all). Displays a typical Riesling nose of lemon, lime, slight petrol and minerality. On the palate, it is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium body, lime, mineral, chalk and petrol, long length, very nice. [Low residual sugar of less than 1 g/l]

The Ordinary Fellow Chardonnay 2022, Colorado Box Bar Vineyard, Colorado (USA), $34.00
Made from 100% Chardonnay grapes from the Box Bar Vineyard, which, at a 6500 elevation is one of the highest vineyard sites in the state. Notes of butter, a hint of nuts and yeast, rich and ripe with apple, medium+ body, good acidity and long length. [375 case production]

The Ordinary Fellow Rose of Pinot Noir 2022, Colorado Hawk’s Nest Vineyard, Colorado (USA), $27.00
The Pinot Noir grapes for this wine and that of the next one are grown at 6800 feet in elevation, which is outside Dolores, CO in the Montezuma Valley. Produced from 100% Pinot Noir, this is a lovely, fresh wine with peach, strawberry and floral notes, with tart strawberry, bright acidity, medium body, cherry, with a restrained elegance, which we greatly appreciated. The Tech Sheet suggested aromas of marijuana – none of us agreed, but we did all chuckle.

The Ordinary Fellow Pinot Noir 2022, Colorado Hawk’s Nest Vineyard, Colorado (USA), $37.00
Produced from 100% Pinot Noir and aged in 3-year-old French oak, medium+ toast, this wine offered up a beautiful nose, restrained and elegant with cherry, berry and floral notes, giving way to some herbal undercurrents, with vibrant acidity, medium body and culminating in very long length.

The Ordinary Fellow Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Colorado Box Bar Vineyard, Colorado (USA), $39.00
Aromas of blackberry, slight herbal notes, and slight oak, all of which persist on the palate, along with full body, bright acidity and long length. [350 case production]


Clambake Wines, wines for all seasons, not just summer

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While summer and clambakes are behind us for now, the wines that accompany them don’t have to be put on hold. In this regard, winemaker Mary McAuley and her Clambake Wines are great accompaniments at the table anytime of year. And, with their luscious fruit and lovely minerality, these wines are actually a wonderful option for Thanksgiving, given their versatility and vibrant acidity.

Mary produces her wines under her Ripe Life Wines company and was first inspired to do so when she was less than satisfied with the options available when selecting wines for a friends’ annual clambake. A certified sommelier and graduate of the French Culinary Institute, Mary decided to solve the problem by making her own wine. Thus, her single-vineyard, Unoaked Chardonnay and Limited Edition Rose, were crafted in response. More recently, she added the Moules Blanc de Blancs Brut to her seafood-themed portfolio. Made with 100% sustainable grapes sourced from the Lodi Valley (CA), this methode champenoise sparkler is produced from 100% Chardonnay grapes.

TASTING NOTES

Clambake Moules Blanc de Blancs Brut NV, Clements Hills California, USA, $36.50
With butter and citrus aromas on the nose, the mousse is a bit aggressive, but displays lively acidity, with butter, minerality, and salinity on the medium bodied palate. Long length.

Clambake Wines Chardonnay Batch 6 2022, Mendocino (CA), USA, $19.99

Aromas of minerality and butter greet the nose. On the palate, the wine is fresh, with citrus and red apple flavors, medium-plus body, a slight toothpick texture and lovely, long length.

Clambake Wines Limited Edition Rose of Pinot Noir 2022, Redwood Valley AVA (CA), USA, $19.99

Hailing from the Hawkeye Vineyard, this rose is produced from 100% Pinot Noir grapes. It offers up notes of melon and strawberry. The dry palate shows bright acidity, medium body, with simple, but fresh and good fruit, culminating in long length.

Oltrepo Pavese wines, perfect pairings for pizza, Thanksgiving and just about anything else

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Located in Italy’s Lombardy region, Oltrepo Pavese gets its name from its location on the “other side” of the Po River, the longest in Italy. Home to over 220 indigenous grape varieties, this region is extremely diverse, producing wines that range from still and sparkling, to dry and sweet and everything in between. Additionally, it’s shared borders with the regions of Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna and Liguria have exerted their influence on the resulting wines as well.

As the third largest grower of Pinot Noir (lagging only behind Burgundy and Champagne), Pinot in its many guises is well represented here. Known by the Italian Pinot Nero, the grape is made into sparkling, white and red wines. Pinot Grigio is also widely planted. Interestingly, due to Lombardy’s historic ties to the Savoy kingdom, Riesling is also found in its vineyards.

The diversity is further reflected in its many different sub-denominations. For example, there are four alone just for Metodo Classico sparkling wines. Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese refers to a lightly sparkling (frizzante) red wine produced from a minimum of 85% Croatina, supplemented with up to 15% of Barbera, Ughetta, and/or Uva Rara. Finally, the unusually titled Sangue di Giuda is named for the legend that Judas came back to life to atone for his betrayal of Jesus, ultimately helping to end an epidemic in the vineyards. This sweet red can be lightly or fully sparkling and may be produced from 25-65% Barbera, 25-65% Croatina, with the remainder being Uva Rara, Ughetta and/or Pinot Nero, up to a maximum of 45%.

Thus, it was a fun and festive introduction to these wines at Sottocasa, an authentic thin-crust pizza restaurant in Harlem, which was the site for an informal wine dinner. Our meal featured an assortment of Oltrepo Pavese wines paired with a selection of salads, pizzas and people. Yet, the informal nature of the event did not mean that the wines were any less complex or of low quality. In fact, they were quite delicious and easy to pair with both the savory and sweet dishes on the crowded table.

Moreover, the diversity of vinous flavors, coupled with the hodge podge of people and food, was the perfect proving ground for Thanksgiving, which we will celebrate in the U.S. this week. While Oltrepo Pavese may be situated on the other side of the Po, this time of year in the U.S. we are metaphorically heading “Over the river and into the woods… to grandmother’s house…” to celebrate Thanksgiving with family, friends or both, with our own assortment of culinary traditions on the table.

The sparkling, white and red wines of Oltrepo Pavese should be a welcome addition to your feast throughout the holiday season and beyond with their flexible, food-friendly nature.

TASTING NOTES

The following wines were those we tasted at Sottacasa, but you can search out whatever Oltrepo Pavese are available at your local wine store.

Defilippi Gessi Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC Crocetta 2021, $25
100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks

Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021
100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks
This was my preference among the Pinot Grigios, but they were all quite good.

Ca di Frara Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC 2021
100% Pinot Grigio, fermented in steel tanks

Ca Montebello Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pinot Nero Vinificato in Bianco 2021, $25
100% Pinot Nero. Vinified as a white wine, this Pinot was extremely fresh and lively, light bodied, really beautiful and super easy to drink. It was a crowd favorite at our meal.

Castello di Luzzano Sommossa Bonarda dell’Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021, $23
100% Croatina. This dry, sparkling red, was produced using the tank method, with raspberries and blackberries, and long length.

Losito & Guarini Giovannella Fugazza Bonarda Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC C’Era Una Volta NV, $20
100% Croatina, tank method.

Dino Torti Oltrepo Pavese DOC Barbera Route 66, 2019, $25
100% Barbera, aged in Fench barrique for 18 months. I didn’t take good notes, but I did enjoy this fresh, medium-bodied red.

Tenuta Travaglino Pinot Nero Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC Pernero 2021
100% Pinot Nero, tank fermentation, 6 months aging on the lees. A light-bodied red, with good cherry fruit, a hint of herbaceousness and lively acidity.

Az. Vitivinicola Vanzini Sas, Sangue di Guida Dell’ Oltrepo Pavese DOC 2021
Croatina, Uva Rara, Barbera, field blend, Martinotti Method. This off dry, red sparkling wine was lovely and fresh and a good pairing with dessert.

Picnics of Perfection and the Perfect Wines to Pair with them

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The fires of Beltane have come and gone, ushering in warmer weather and brighter days as we await next month’s Summer Solstice. For me, this means outdoor dining
and, while outdoor dining took on new meaning this past year, there’s something about eating outside that generally adds to the ambience (although less so in February — at least in New York). Of course, with lovely weather, verdant lawns, delicious food and great friends, a picnic is an especially lovely experience. Thus, my tiffin box and I were delighted to take to the park recently in search of sun, al fresco fare and good company, accompanied by good wine.

I can still remember one of my first picnics as a young child. I simply draped a cloth on an old tree stump and proceeded to enjoy my lunch. As I got older, my picnics became more elaborate, particularly when my husband and I began to explore the joys of picnicking on our first visit to France together. This is not particularly surprising given that the word pique-nique dates to 17th century France. In any event, we would attend the local farmer’s market, select an assortment of bread, cheeses, meats and a bottle of wine before finding the perfect spot in which to partake of our meal. These pleasant memories set the stage for our future outings in parks, at polo events and elsewhere.


Consequently, today, picnics are a big part of our summer plans and I am always at the ready with my picnic backpack, picnic blanket and the aforementioned tiffin box. While I take great pleasure in the creation of a beautiful meal in a beautiful setting, your ideal picnic might simply be a blanket and baloney sandwiches. Neither one of is right, as long as we are both having a great time!

That being said, I do feel that any meal is elevated by the presence of wine and picnics are no exception. Seek out fresh whites, crisp rosés and bubbles of all shades as refreshing, food friendly and fun options to adorn one’s outdoor feast.

Here are some wonderful wine options to get you started!



WHITES
Veramonte Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Casablanca Valley, Chile, $11.99
From the cool Casablanca Valley in Chile, this wine offers up fresh herbal and citrus aromas, which persist on the palate with zippy acidity, medium body and good length. As an organic wine, it represents only a small percentage of Chilean vineyards that have sought out this designation.

Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $45.00
From the highly respected producer, Merry Edwards, this Sauvignon Blanc is a more concentrated option with rich fruit notes of pear and citrus along with an herbal character on the nose. It provides good acidity, is slightly riper than the 2018, with medium-to-full body and very long length. This is a pricier option than the others listed here, but is definitely worth the splurge.
For more on Merry Edwards, see these stories:
– In Pursuit of Pleasure, Promise and Pinot
– Making Merry for the Holidays

Vilarnau Brut Reserva NV, Cava, Spain, $14.99
Cava producer, Vilarnau, has been around since 1949 and is located in the of heart of Catalonia in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, just outside Barcelona. Its current labels pay homage to Antoni Gaudi, whose many masterpieces can be found in the city. Also an organic wine, this traditional blend of Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo, is aged over 15 months in bottle, with toasty, yeasty, apple notes on the nose and palate, good persistence of bubbles, and long length.

Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Extra Dry, Treviso, Italy, $13.00
Founded in 1960, this family-owned winery is now run by Giovanni Corvezzo, who was responsible for converting the vineyards to organic farming in 2013, and has since earned its organic certification in Italy. With a very fresh nose of cotton candy, pear and floral notes, this lovely sparkler is dry on palate, with good persistence of bubbles, vibrant acidity and long length.

ROSES
Domaine Bousquet Gaia Rosé 2020, Mendoza, Argentina, $20.00
While I had the pleasure of tasting wine with Anne Bousquet just before the pandemic, this is a new wine from the winery. Produced from 100% Pinot Noir grapes, the nose is redolent of raspberries and strawberries that persist on the dry palate, along with medium+ acidity, medium body and long length.

Corvezzo Prosecco DOC Rosé Extra Dry, Millesimato Treviso, Italy, $13.00
It’s official! Prosecco can now legally be produced as a rosé sparkling wine. Another organic and vegan option from Corvezzo, this wine offers up aromas of berries, cherry and peach, with beautiful freshness on the palate, and a gentle perlage, along with long length.

Vilarnau Brut Reserva Rosé Delicat NV, Cava, Spain, $15.99
From the same producer noted above, with its Gaudi-inspired label, this sparkling rosé is soon to be certified organic. A blend of 85% Garnacha and 15% Pinot Noir, the wine displays fresh floral and berry notes with a lovely dry, effervescent palate, and balanced acidity, culminating in long length.

If you desire your own very special picnic without doing all the work, check out Perfect Picnic.

Fall in love with the wines from Famiglia Pasqua

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In January 2017, I had the immense pleasure of visiting Verona. “In fair Verona, where we lay our scene,” I found a lovely and welcoming city with bustling shops, beckoning restaurants and majestic bridges. Starting at the imposing Bra Gate, the city’s cobble-stone streets put you in mind of another time, reinforced as you pass the Roman amphitheater. Other hints of this classical connection include the Porta Borsari, an ancient Roman gate still standing in the middle of town.

In many ways, this is the city of love. Nearly synonymous with the tragic story of Romeo and Juliet, visitors are encouraged to tour Juliet’s house and tomb as well as send her letters in aid of their own romantic peccadillos. But, despite the gimmicky feel to these attractions, there is something about Verona that stirs the romance within. Or, perhaps, at least, the romance of life and adventure.

Aside from romantic love, Verona also courts business – specifically the business of wine. Home to VinItaly, Verona hosts the largest wine fair in the world, bringing the world of wine to its door each year.  Moreover, Verona serves as a gateway to the Valpolicella wine region, the name of which translates as the “valley of many cellars” and with the profusion of wine production here, it is easy to see why.

An area dedicated to viticulture, local archeological evidence of these vines dates to 40 million years ago, while records of wine production in the Veneto area indicate a history as early as the 5th century BCE. The region is bound by Lake Garda and the Adige River, both of which influence the climate among the nearly 20,000 acres of vineyards.

Today, the region encompasses several different wines within its borders, but traditionally has been associated with wines produced from dried grapes. These type of wines appear to have been developed from the fourth century BCE, likely a way for the Romans to raise the alcohol level of their wines, rendering them more stable and thus more easily transported throughout their empire.

While the Romans dried their grapes over heat, more modern measures focus on drying out the grapes over a period of months through a more natural reduction in water content called appassimento. Today, the wines most well known for this type of production method is Amarone della Valpolicella.

Hailing from this region and adapting this traditional approach, the Pasqua family has focused on producing a less expensive option in both red and white. They use a modified appassimento technique in which the grapes lose “only” 15-30% volume as opposed to the 60% associated with Amarone. The family launched their Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento (Passion-Feeling) in 2014.

Not ones to worry about convention, Alessandro Pasqua proudly declares that “The Rosso breaks about 10 rules!” including its use of the non-indigenous Merlot grape, early vinification and a limited aging regimen. Accordingly, neither of these wines have a particular designation other than IGT Veneto, proclaiming that the wines come from the Veneto region.

Befitting a wine named Passion-Feeling, the label features the love-inspired graffiti that lined the passageway and walls (now since removed) at the house associated as having been the Capulet’s home.

Pasqua’s PassioneSentimento collection includes a white, red and a Prosecco, another wine closely associated with the region.

Among its other wines, the Pasqua Family also produces a an “11 Minutes Rosé ,” which, according to their winemaker is the ideal length of time for contact between the juice and skins to produce this wine. While not part of the PassioneSentimento series, this rose recalls another set of lovers: Catullus and Lesbia, with her depicted on the label.

  • The graffiti wall at the Capulet home in Verona.

TASTING NOTES

Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento Prosecco Brut, Treviso DOC, $16 SRP
Fresh and lively on the nose and palate, with bright pear fruit and floral notes, persistent effervescence and long length.

Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento Bianco 2018, Veneto IGT, $16 SRP
Produced from 100% Garganega, the grapes for this wine are harvested early, hand-picked and then dried for around 15 days, thereby concentrating the aromas and flavors. A portion is aged in French oak barrels for a few months. With an intense, concentrated nose, one is greeted with notes of melon, musk and a slight nuttiness. On the palate, it is dry, with high acidity, rich and round with citrus, melon, culminating in long length.

Pasqua “11 Minutes” Rosé TreVenezie IGT, $20 SRP
This rose is very much in the Provencal style, with a barely there pale salmon color. Aromas of watermelon and strawberries greet the nose and continue on the palate, with good acidity, medium body and long length. Very refreshing and food friendly.

Romeo & Juliet PassioneSentimento Rosso 2017, Veneto IGT, $16 SRP
A blend of 40% Merlot, 30% Corvina and 30% Croatina, the grapes are left to dry for four to six weeks, losing water content over time. On the nose, this wine offers up notes of plum, cherries, a hint of vanilla and menthol. The palate is dry, but with a slightly sweet attack, with medium acidity, medium tannins, flavors of berries, baking spice and anise, with long length.

Never Say Never at Domaine Bousquet

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Growing up in a winegrowing family near Carcassonne, Anne Bousquet wanted nothing to do with the industry. It didn’t appeal to her in the least and she was determined to get an education, open up her options and pursue financial independence among other lifelong goals. No one told her resistance is futile.

In pursuit of her dreams, Anne attended college in Toulouse to study economics. During her studies, she moved to Minnesota as an exchange student in order to improve her English (and also ended up meeting her future husband – an exchange student from Spain). As a result of this experience, she was offered the opportunity to earn a master’s degree in economics, becoming an economist and eventually moving to Boston where she analyzed the wood and paper industries. Anne was very happy with her life and was doing well in her career.

During this time, her father had launched Domaine Bousquet. While most people go on vacation and bring home a crappy t-shirt 😊, Anne Bousquet’s father ended his Argentine vacation with the purchase of land. His dream was to plant one of the first vineyards in the Tupungato area. He planted his vines between 1998-2000 and produced his first wine in 2003.

With wine ready to sell, Anne’s father turned to her for assistance. Anne’s husband jumped at the chance, and, while Anne agreed, she kept her economics job to pay the bills. The two moved to Europe in the mid-2000s, introducing the European market to their organic Argentine wines. Anne and her husband attended their first ProWein in 2005 and, by 2008, Domaine Bousquet was selling 1 million bottles annually, entering the U.S. market around this time. In 2009, Anne resigned from economics altogether to devote herself full-time to the winery, moving from Europe to Tupungato. Two years later, Anne’s father retired, placing her directly in charge of production and finance, while her husband is responsible for sales.

In 2015, Anne and her family moved yet again, this time to Miami, when they decided to start their own import company. The winery presently exports 98% of its production, thanks to strong demand outside of the country, selling 4.5 million bottles annually worldwide.

From the very beginning, Domaine Bousquet has been keenly focused on organic farming, receiving its organic certification in 2005. This approach has been very important to them and has been a point of differentiation in the market. Not surprisingly, Domaine Bousquet has always been a leader in organic production in Argentina. As a Certified Organic winery, Domaine Bousquet takes this commitment very seriously. While some vineyards may ascribe to organics during favorable years and use chemicals during tough times, they are not permitted to make such adjustments if they wish to keep their organic certification.

Thankfully, the climate and terrain of Argentina and the Mendoza region (more specifically) lend themselves well to growing grapes organically. As the driest wine region in the world, Argentina’s vineyards are generally free from mold and mildew issues that require extensive spraying and intervention elsewhere. Additionally, the high altitude of Argentina’s winegrowing regions maintains acidity and crispness in the grapes and thus the resulting wines.

More recently, under Anne’s direction, Domaine Bouquet wanted to get to the next level of organic certification, especially in the U.S. Although all their wines have always had lower sulfite levels than conventional wines, they have chosen to achieve USDA Organic certification for their new Virgen wines by excluding the addition of any sulfites at all. These wines are also Certified Sustainable, Gluten-Free and Vegan Friendly (they use bentonite to fine their wines rather than egg- or fish-derived fining agents).

The first Virgen wine was a red blend (bringing together Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec), made in 2018. It sold out in three months, prompting them to increase production with the next vintage, adding a Malbec and a Cabernet Sauvignon to the lineup in addition to the original red blend.

In speaking about these new wines, Anne acknowledges that the biggest risk to the Virgen line  is temperature fluctuation during travel and stocking issues with exposure to heat. “It’s pure; it’s a naked baby.” Yet, when tasting the wine two years later, they have found it still to be fresh and clean, despite its lack of added sulfites, which generally act as a preservative and anti-oxidant.

Moreover, they want to boost production of their sparkling wines (which they produce using both the Charmat and Traditional Methods) since they can give consumers Certified Organic sparkling wines – something they can’t really get from Champagne and many other regions. And, they can scale their production to meet perceived demand, due to their 700 acres and supplemental growing contracts.

The winery’s Gaia line, named for a goddess from Greek mythology, is now available only on-premise (at restaurants / not for retail sale). Initially developed with a red blend and a white blend, it also now includes a varietal Cabernet France (a first for them) and a Malbec. Anne notes that Cabernet Franc has been gaining in popularity in the region, prompting them to craft this wine.

Finally, Anne presented us with Ameri, Domaine Bousquet’s top icon wine. As she explained, all of the wines have Anne’s name on it, so they decided to create one wine with her husband’s name – his last name is Alimeri!

All in all, despite her initial resistance, Anne has made a good life for herself and her family in the industry she swore she’d never work. And, the wines that she produces are not only well made, they are quite economic to buy. As for whether Anne’s pre-teen daughter will try to eschew the family business as her mother did, for now, she wants to be an actress or a chef. We’ll have to wait to see if her resistance is futile!

TASTING NOTES
Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose Brut NV, Tupungato, Argentina, $13.00
Produced via the Charmat Method, this blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay has a beautiful, medium salmon color and a nice mousse. The dry palate offers up refreshing acidity, ripe berries and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Chardonnay 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $18.00
Aromas of nuts, apples and pear greet the nose and persist on the tongue. On the palate, the wine is dry with good acidity and a rich, round, full body, culminating in long length.

Domaine Bousquet Virgen USDA-certified organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Tupungato, Argentina, 13.00
This is a beautifully light Cabernet Sauvignon, with medium body and light tannins. It is fresh and clean, with black fruit, a slightly leafy note and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Virgen USDA-certified organic Malbec 2019, Tupungato, Argentina, $13.00
Much more intense than its sister Cab, the Malbec is concentrated with juicy, ripe fruit of plum and blackberries with light to medium tannins, medium body and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Cabernet Franc 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $20.00
A lovely wine with good complexity of aromas and flavors including cranberry, blueberry and dried herbs. The palate provides a beautiful texture. culminating in long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Malbec 2018, Tupungato, Argentina, $20.00
This wine is fresh with lush, dark red and black fruit, along with peppery, spicy notes and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Ameri 2017, Tupungato, Argentina, $36.00
Bringing together Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot and then aged in French oak for 16 months, this wine displays strength and elegance, with medium tannins, red and black fruit and long length.

Bodega Norton and the Love of a Good Woman

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It’s Valentine’s Day week, with the addition of the newly created Galentine’s Day and the usual backlash against this “Hallmark Holiday.” But, whether you are reaching for all things red and romantic or boycotting it altogether, there’s no denying the love that exudes from wine brand Bodega Norton, which celebrates its 125th anniversary this year.  Sharing lots of love with the New York wine press, the brand’s Chief Winemaker (David Bonomi) and Sales & Marketing Director (Santiago Galli) visited New York earlier this month as the third visit of a total of 125 to mark this momentous occasion.

Founded in 1895, Bodega Norton got its start when a British engineer, Edmund James Palmer Norton, was stationed in South America to build a rail line connecting Chile and Argentina and fell in love with an Argentine woman. Completely smitten and unwilling to leave her, he gave up his engineering career and established the winery in Mendoza, Argentina.

The winery continued to grow and flourish under the Norton family until it was purchased in 1989 by Gernot Langes-Swarovski of the Austrian crystal company. Drawn by his passion for wine, Gernot recognized the beauty and quality of Bodega Norton. To protect his investment, he sent his son, Michael Halstrick, to Argentina to lead the winery as CEO. Equally charmed as the original founder, Michael, too, met and fell in love with an Argentine woman, married her and now lives full-time in Argentina with his family, shepherding the winery towards ever-continuing excellence.

Joining Michael in his pursuit of excellence, David Bonomi has held the post as Chief Winemaker since 2014, and is only the 3rd winemaker at the winery in the past 50 years, maintaining its heritage and legacy. He had been with the company previously and his deep affection for Bodega Norton was evident as he spoke about the vineyards and wines.

Named a Top 10 South American winemaker by Decanter magazine, David was born into an Italian winemaking family (originally from Piedmont) and fell in love with wine at an early age. His first passion was viticulture, and, while he eventually studied enology as well, it is clear that he comes alive in the vineyard. With 33 years as a professional winemaker and viticulturist, David loves discovering the capabilities of new (to Argentina) varieties, such as Gruner Veltliner as well as new vineyards (in Uco Valley and Patagonia). He then crafts his interpretation of a place into wine.

Speaking about the Swarovski family, David described their arrival as a merger between Latin passion and European vision. He further noted the influence that the family’s attention to detail in the crystal business was infused into the existing culture at Bodega Norton, along with a strong emphasis on sustainability and best practices. Moreover, their commitment to quality production extends to their growers; the minimum contract is 10 years with shared investment in netting and other necessary equipment.

The winery’s five estate vineyards are all found in the foothills of the Andes Mountains, comprising a total of 1,750 planted acres that range in age from 30 to 80 years old. They are situated within Mendoza’s Lujan de Cuyo district and further delineated in a special area known as primera zona (first zone) for the quality of the grapes.

This is truly the desert, with limited water (they are limited to irrigating with snow melt from the mountains) and challenging conditions to create wine. As David explained, there are two climates here: hot and dry and, in more difficult vintages, cool and rain. But, their long-term vision keeps them going. And, that is a true labor of love!


TASTING NOTES

During the lunch celebration, we had the great fortune to taste through a selection of current wines as well as a vertical of the winery’s top wine, Gernot Langes. The Gernot Langes was first produced in 2003 and honors Bodega Norton’s current owner, Gernot Langes Swarovski. Assessing seven vintages ranging from 2006 to 2016, it was apparent that the wine is not a photocopy, but rather, it is a wine that differs from vintage to vintage. Moreover, while only the 2016 vintage is available, the exercise demonstrated the wine’s ability to age and develop with time.

Bodega Norton: 1010 Bubbles NV, Mendoza, Argentina, $13.00
Produced via a special Charmat Method to create fine bubbles and retain the fresh fruit aromas of Gruner Veltliner, the wine is bright with slight floral and citrus and pear notes, delicate mousse, long length.

Bodega Norton Reserva Malbec 2018, Luyan de Cuyo, Argentina, $19.00
Made with 100% Malbec, David now adds a small mount of fruit from the Uco Valley to the wine to give it additional complexity. It offered up notes of plums, figs, black current with a savory and leafy undercurrent. The palate displayed good acidity, with medium-firm tannins, medium+ body and long length.

Bodega Norton Privada Family Blend 2016, Luyan de Cuyo, Argentina, $22.00
Bringing together 40% Malbec (for structure) , 30% Cabernet Sauvignon (for body) and 30% Merlot (for acidity), this wine was originally kept just for the family to enjoy with friends, but has since been produced as a commercial wine.  The use of oak is very limited, so it is not overt on the palate. Notes of spice, black cherry and blackberry greet the nose. On the palate, it is more structured than Reserva Malbec, as well as richer and rounder with a smoky note in the very long finish.

Bodega Norton Gernot Langes 2016, Mendoza, Argentina, $105.00
A blend of 30% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine was aged in oak for 16 months, with an additional 14 months in bottle before release. Of the vintages we tasted, it was the freshest with an expressive, concentrated nose of black fruit, dried herbs, smoke, with good acidity, firm tannins, medium+ body, culminating in long length.

A Discovery of Riches: The Perfect Pairing of Piave DOP and Garda DOC

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This month, we heard reports of a NASA summer intern, Wolf Cukier, who discovered a new planet. Pretty heady stuff! These days, it is challenging to discover anything new under the sun. We live in a world where we’ve been there, done that and, with globalization, there is a homogenization of culture that pervades. Yet, we still treasure unique products and delight in the discovery of new finds.

Twenty years ago, in search of novel and noteworthy products to sell, Lou Di Palo, head of his family’s business, was fortunate to come across a then-unheard of Italian cheese: Piave. Bringing his new-found discovery to America (or at least to the Italian cheese and specialty shop established in 1903 by his great-grandfather, Savino Di Palo), Lou introduced New Yorkers to this wonderful artisan cheese.

Lou Di Palo

Today, Piave DOP Cheese has become a beloved staple of the American market, finding shelf space in major supermarkets as well as in specialty stores. This traditional cheese hails from the Belluno province near the northern tip of the Veneto region, amidst the Dolomite Mountains.

Historically, the area has been known for its dairy cattle since the 1700s, but as the rural economy declined in the wake of industrialization, it was the cooperative dairies that saved the industry during the 1800s. Yet, despite this lengthy history, the Piave cheese as we know it, named for the local Piave River, dates from 1960. And, more recently, the Piave Consorzio was established in 2010 to protect the brand and quality of the cheese, with an average of 300,000 wheels produced annually.

A hard, cooked, cow’s milk cheese, these cylindrical cheeses are made from fresh milk sourced solely from within the mountain province and limited to three types of cow: Italian Brown, Italian Spotted Red and Italian Friesian (aka Holstein). A special culture from the area accounts for the cheese’s characteristic taste, which is further influenced by its aging process, with flavor intensifying over time. As the cheese ages, the curd becomes darker and harder and the rind increases in thickness and color. Due to the fermentation process involved in its production, it has a low lactose content compared to some other cheeses.

With its fresh, medium, aged and extra old age designations, there are several different options available:
–Piave Fresco (20-60 days)
-Piave Mezzano (61-180 days)
-Piave Vecchio (>180 days)
-Piave Vecchio Selezione Oro (more than 12 months)
-Piave Vecchio Riserva (more than 18 months)

Regardless of your preference, the rich, nutty flavors of the cheese pair well with wine. In this regard, a recent press event hosted at Di Palo’s newest venture: C. Di Palo wine bar, showcased the pairing ability of the cheeses with the wines of
Garda Spumante DOC. These wines, named for Lake Garda and produced just 100 miles away from the Piave DOP area, offered up a fresh and effervescent option to cleanse one’s palate in between bites of cheese. Guests at the happy hour were invited to sample the Piave Mezzano and Piave Vecchio Selezione Oro in their unadulterated, delicious form, as well as a range of dishes prepared by Di Palo’s chef, utilizing both the cheeses and the wines in his recipes.

As Italy’s largest lake, Lake Garda splits its regional allegiance down the middle, with Lombardy to the west and the Veneto to the east. Here, drying breezes and the moderating influence of the lake permit the grapes to ripen sufficiently, while maintaining their bright acidity.

Established in 1996, the corresponding Garda DOC wine area encompasses the cities of Brescia, Mantua, Verona and is home to 10 appellations situated at the southern curve of the lake. It overlaps with other appellations, including the more well-known appellations (aka denominations) of Lugana, Custoza, Valpolicella, Bardolino, Soave and Valdadige.

Although the denomination permits the production of whites, rosés and reds, the core production centers on sparkling wines with 7 million bottles produced annually, with an estimated production increase to 20 million bottles in the next few years. These sparkling (aka spumante) wines may be made using either the Traditional (that used in Champagne) or Charmat (used in Prosecco production) Methods, depending upon the individual producer’s personal preferences. The white Garda DOC Spumante may use Garganega, Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano or Chardonnay, while the Rosé Garda DOC Spumante is produced from Corvina, Rondinella, Pinot Nero or Merlot. The wines range from Brut Nature (no sweetness) to Demi-Sec (dessert style) wines.

With the luscious cheese dishes served alongside the fragrant sparkling wines, it was a perfect evening of food and wine pairings. All in all, a delicious discovery and an embarrassment of riches!

C. Di Palo wine bar with its meticulous finishes. The beautifully restored sequoia wood on the bar and walls comes from a reclaimed water tower.

Lini 910’s Lambrusco: New (to you) Wines to Welcome in the New Year

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My philosophy has always been that everything is better that sparkles: wine, water, diamonds and personalities. And, while I happily drink sparkling wines all year round regardless of the occasion, I am especially fixated on fizz for New Year’s Eve.

This year, I had the pleasure of tasting through an assortment of Italian sparklers from wine importer Winebow ranging from Prosecco to Franciacorta. But, it was the duo of Lambrusco wines –a rosé and a vintage-dated rosso — that commanded my attention. These two wines were produced by Lini 910, a family-owned and operated winery, which was founded in 1910 and is presently run by Fabio Lini, a member of the fourth generation.

Hailing from Central Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, Lambrusco has been made as early as the middle of the 10th century. While there are stylistic differences among the various DOCs, in general, Lambrusco is produced via the Charmat Method and the resulting wines typically display high acidity, at least some effervescence, low alcohol and fruity and floral aromas. In addition, some producers do make Traditional Method wines, which are more similar to Champagne in their production.

Overall, these wonderful wines are extremely food friendly (which makes a lot of sense given that they come from a very gastronomic-focused area – the land of Parmigiana-Reggiano, Parma ham and Balsamic vinegar. Moreover, they pair equally well with cheeses and charcuterie as well as with heartier fare.

With their festive bubbles and bold red hues, they easily transform any day into a celebration, making them an excellent alternative to Champagne and other sparklers especially as we countdown to the new decade!


TASTING NOTES

Lini 910, Lambrusco Rosé NV, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, $25.00
Typical of the region, this wine is produced by the Charmat Method, the same method used in the production of Prosecco. This process retains the fresh fruit flavors of the grapes, which are present on the nose and palate of this lovely wine. Floral, fresh herbs and ripe cherries greet the nose and persist on the palate, with medium+ body, freshness and long length.

Lini 910, Lambrusco Metodo Classico Rosso Millesimato 2006, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, $40.00
As a Metodo Classico wine, this Lambrusco was crafted using the Traditional Method, the same production technique used in Champagne, whereby the wine spends a significant amount of time in contact with the spent yeast (aka lees). Given its more complex production, this wine offered up beautiful notes of yeast, cherries and berries. The rich blackberry flavors were balanced with lively acidity and very long length.

Campania’s Sannio Wines Delight at Del Posto

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Although I am generally familiar with the wines of Italy’s Campania region, namely through visits to Feudi di San Gregorio and Mastroberadino, I had never heard of Sannio. Or, admittedly, if I had, it was likely memorized for a wine exam and then promptly forgotten. My mistake…and my misfortune for overlooking these wines.

Thankfully the error of my ways has been rectified, thanks to a beautiful introduction to these wines back in October. We were welcomed to a sumptuous lunch at Del Posto restaurant by Consorzio President, Dr. Libero Rillo, who provided some background on this tiny territory in the province of Benevento. But, despite its small size (~10,000 hectares), it is important to the Campania region. Here, the emphasis is on the indigenous grape varieties of Aglianico, Falanghina and others.

The Consorzio itself dates in 1999 and comprises 400 members. It overseas several denominations including Aglianico del Taburno DOCG, which produces red or rose wines, Falanghina del Sannio DOP, which is restricted to white and sparkling as well as the Sannio DOP which offers a full range of styles. An IGP Benevento or Beneventano also exists. 

The 10,000 hectares are allocated among nearly 10,000 wineries, including two cooperatives. Most are small and medium in size, producing a total of 25 million bottles annually among the IGT, DOC and DOCG designations. However, the consorzio is eager to increase its production, especially at the quality levels.

Attendees at the aforementioned press luncheon has the opportunity to explore the two vaunted denominations: Falanghina Sannio DOC and Aglianico del Tabruno DOCG, under the tutelage of Somm In the City, Sara Lehman. While the Falanghina grape has ancient roots, its name has much more modern origins thanks to the trellis poles aka “falanga” that were used to support the vines. The wine received its DOP status in 2013, and is known for its minerality, good acidity, and ability to age for 10-15 years, during which time it develops complexity. These grapes must be sourced from the hillsides where there is some elevation, which helps to avoid the humidity found on the valley floor.

The Aglianico del Tabruno DOCG harkens back to the Greeks who came to the area centuries ago, settling near Mt. Taburno. The wine’s DOCG status was bestowed in 2011 and comprises both red and rose wines. The rose, which doesn’t require any aging, is currently the only Italian rose to hold this designation level. The reds must be aged for a minimum of two years in wood and bottle, with the Riservas aged for three years in wood and another 12 months in bottle. These are powerful, tannic wines with complexity and good aging potential, known for aromas of blackberry, plum, violet and black pepper.

WHITE WINE TASTING NOTES
I deliberately limited my consumption of the Falanghinas knowing that we were going to taste a lot of reds with the seated lunch (we tasted 13 and I’ve included my notes on my 8 favorites). Accordingly, I limited my tasting to the sparkling Falanghina del Sannio DOP – V.S.Q. Brut from Cantina di Solopaca, which is one of the oldest co-ops in the area, with grapes sourced from the slopes of Mt. Taburno. It was refreshing, with good acidity and nice fruit aromas and flavors.

I also tasted the Mustilli Vigna Segreta Falanghina 2016, a wine produced from a cru vineyard known for its volcanic and limestone soils. It was rich and concentrated with good minerality and long length.

RED WINE TASTING NOTES
2018 Elena Catalano Sannio Aglianico 2018, Italy
This wine, produced solely in stainless steel, was youthful, with robust red and black fruit, firm tannins and good length.

Fattoria la Rivolta Pediarosso Taburno Sannio DOP 2018, Italy
Made from hand-harvested grapes grown on clay and volcanic soil, this wine offered up bright red fruit, lovely freshness and notes of pepper that lingered in the finish.

Cantina di Solopaca Barbera 2017, Italy
This wine is produced from 20 year old vines grown on clay and limestone soils on the slopes of Mt. Taberno, It offers up a very earthy nose, with a clay undercurrent and red fruit aromas and flavors.
  
Cautiero Sannio DOC Aglianico 2016, Italy
After moving to the city as adults, the winery’s owners returned to the countryside to pursue their love of wine and the land, choosing to focus on organic farming. The wine is tight and needs time, but displays nice black fruit and long length.

Terre Stregate Manent Sannio Aglianico 2016, Italy
This is a beautiful and balanced wine with lovely aromas and flavors of red fruit, earth and herbs, along with good structure. It spent 6-8 months aging in barriques.

Azienda Agricola Scompiglio Barbera del Sannio 2016, Italy
Lush and gorgeous on the nose and palate, this Barbera was floral in character with blueberry and blackcherry notes, lingering in the long length.

Azienda Agricola Castelle Aglianico Riserva 2015, Italy
As a Riserva-level wine, it spent the minimum three years aging in oak. It was lovely, yet tannic and will be better in time.
 
Torre del Pagus Aglianico Taburno DOCG 2013, Italy
This wine spent 12 months in oak, with another year aging in bottle before release. It was  elegant, with good structure and lots of red fruit notes.