Another Pineau to Know: Pineau des Charentes

Fortified wines aren’t very well known among most consumers, And, no, it has nothing to do with vitamins. Rather, the fortification comes in the form of the addition of a grape-based spirit to raise the alcohol level and consequently halt the fermentation process. As a result, some of the sweetness in the wine remains instead of being fully converted to alcohol as would be the case with a dry wine.

While Port, Sherry and Madeira are more recognizable in this category, Pineau des Charentes is definitely deserving of consideration. It hails from the Charente and Charente-Maritime regions of France, which is where Cognac is made and has had Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status since 1945, which guarantees quality and an adherence to minimum production requirements.

In particular, it must be aged for at least 18 months, 12 of which must be spent in oak. Wines designated as “old” must age for a minimum of seven years, while the “very old” must age for 12 years. Produced from Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Folle Blanche and other local grape varieties, it shares many similarities with Cognac, but are generally sweet wines, with an alcohol level of 17% (compared to 40% proof Cognac).

Not surprisingly, with its freshness and lower alcohol, it is well suited to cocktails. In fact, it is quite versatile and diverse in its expression, yielding a wide range of options. These wines can also be enjoyed on their own and can be a great pairing throughout the meal – not just with dessert – despite their sweetness. Rather, they are quite food friendly, a point made abundantly clear at a recent dinner at l’Accolade in New York City’s West Village neighborhood.

Presided over by Ms. Franky Marshall, who bills herself as a modern bartender, the evening got off to a great start with a Pineau & Tonic with thyme and grapefruit, which beautifully displayed the freshness, balance and aromatics of this wine. Franky has been working with Pineau des Charentes since 2017, and, once we were seated, paired each dish with a different Pineau option. In this fashion, she joked that we were “speed dating” the wines.

I was very impressed with the breadth and depth of what was in the glass and really enjoyed drinking the Pineaus with the meal.

With my Coconut Shrimp appetizer, prepared with coconut, peanut dressing and a pepper cabbage salad, I enjoyed two Pineau des Charentes. The first of which was distinctly floral with maple aromas and flavors, while the second option was more intense and heavier in its texture and weight on the palate. They each matched well, but I was more partial to the former, as a counterpoint to the dressing.

My main course of Monkfish served with zuchini, shrimp nage and mango puree was accompanied by one with caramel notes and a clean finish and another that was lighter, with bright acidity. Both were really lovely with the richness of the dish.

For dessert, I had the chocolate mousse with almondine, orange chocolate cake and almond puree. My Pineau pairings included a wine with light citrus notes that was medium sweet yet well balanced, with an herbal undercurrent. The other was more complex, with fuller body, caramel, burnt orange and rancio aromas and flavors, that had been aged for 15 years. The two wines paired really well, but the second wine was my favorite of the two for its complexity and rancio character.

If these wines are not on your radar (and likely they aren’t), I encourage you to seek them out or perhaps encourage your favorite bartender to try their hand at Pineau cocktails – for a twist on a classic or their own, new creation.

For more information on Pineau des Charentes, check out the Pineau Academy: https://pineauacademy.com/


Picnic season returns… wines for spring and summer 2023

Spring has been a long time coming this year. While Mother Nature graced us with a beautiful glimpse of picture-perfect weather in early April, the cold, wet weeks that followed left much to be desired. We are now happy to see the sun and feel its warmth, beckoning us outside. In a word (or more precisely two), it’s Picnic Season!

That means a lot of things, but chief among them is what wines to enjoy al fresco this spring and summer. In that regard, I recently had the very pleasant opportunity to taste through a selection of wines from Spanish wine producer, Hammeken Cellars. With Sailé Ramirez at the helm as CEO, the company has launched six new brands and planted over 250,000 trees as part of their sustainability program.

In fact, during that spring preview weekend in April, my husband and I had a picnic date night in Fort Tryon Park, toting along two rosés from their collection: Radio Boka Rosé and Sedosa Rosé.

Outside was no longer an option for a while, so the Radio Boka Verdejo was enjoyed indoors at the dining table, but the Gotas de Mar Albarino was a welcome companion as I introduced my friend, Sharon, to the joys of fancy picnics when we met up in Prospect Park for lunch and a production of Molière’s Tartuffe.

In keeping with the theme of freshness and al fresco dining, I’m including tasting notes from a recent seminar with Domaine Bousquet, since several of its current releases are also perfect picnic pairings, particularly, their sparkling rose and LO CA Chardonnay.

TASTING NOTES

WHITES

Radio Boka Verdejo 2021, VDT Castilla, Spain, $12.00
Aromas of bitter almond, pear, and citrus on both the nose and palate, this complex wine offers up medium body, medium acidity and long length.

Gotas de Mar Albariño 2022, Rias Baixas, Spain, $25.00
Produced from 100% Albariño from 15-25 year old vines, this wine was aged for six months on its lees. Notes of citrus and riper tree fruit are joined by minerality and salinity, with medium body, good acidity and long length.

Domaine Bousquet LO CA Chardonnay 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $14.00
LO CA is a local calorie and low alcohol wine, which required numerous attempts to get it right due to ensure a wine that was stable and of the quality they desired. The resulting wine has 9% abv and 2% residual sugar. Green apple, musk and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate with high acidity, minerality, medium body and long length.

ROSÉS

2021 Radio Boka Rosé, VDT Castilla, Spain, $12.00
Tasted alongside the Sedosa rosé, this wine was less ripe, with slightly higher acidity. It is redolent of fresh raspberries and citrus, with medium body and long length.

Sedosa Organic Rosé 2021, VDT Castilla, Spain, $20.00
Comprised of 100% Bobal from 15 year old vines, this wine is pale salmon in color with aromas of berries, and melon and a hint of floral. The dry palate provides ripe fresh berries, good acidity and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose NV, Uco Valley, Argentina, $13.00
This sparkling wine is produced using the Charmat Method, bringing together 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. Deep salmon in color, with a persistent bead, it is fresh and lively with tart cherry notes, a lovely mousse and long length.



Mediterranean Aperitivo: Delicious Products of Place on Your Plate

I’ve noticed an interesting trend recently of food and wine products banding together to take their message to the masses. Case in point, the Charming Taste of Europe Consortium dinner I attended a few weeks ago. I think this is a great idea and, frankly, it makes a lot of sense since it can be challenging to showcase a single product and moreover, we don’t eat and drink in a vacuum.

This type of collaborative effort was also seen at the Mediterranean Aperitivo event, which was held at Eataly Flatiron’s winter wonderland rooftop in mid-December. As I was unable to attend, the organizers offered me the opportunity to recreate the festivities at home and I happily accepted.

Admittedly unsure what to expect, I was pleasantly surprised to receive a cute package revealing Vermouth di Torino PGI, Pecorino Toscana PDO, a Costa d’Amalfi PGI Lemon and Greek olives, along with an informative guide. You’ll spot a lot of letters in the above product names and that’s both intentional and important.

Specifically, PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) are legal terms that mean that the products have been deemed by the European Union to be of high quality and of particular connection to a territory or geographical area. Much like Champagne (a sparkling wine that only comes from the Champagne region in France), these labels signal to the consumer that this is a special product coming from a very specific place.

Vermouth di Torino PGI: While many people are familiar with vermouth in the context of a martini, they may not know precisely what vermouth is. It is, in fact, an aromatized wine. In this regard, a local wine has been infused with local, aromatic plants. Think of it as the gin of wine! Vermouth is commonly produced in alpine areas and Piedmont’s Torino, at the foothills of the Alps, is no exception. The region’s vermouth developed its stellar reputation in the 18th century and has continued to uphold the same standards and receive continued recognition.

While the guide suggested making a classic martini, paired with the enclosed Greek olives, our household was a bit shy of the required quantities of either gin or vodka at that moment. Instead, I opted to mix up a slightly altered version of the guide’s other recipe, Contessa of Piedmont, substituting the sweet vermouth for the dry and Campari for the Aperol. It was well balanced and delicious with floral and botanical notes!

Pecorino Toscano PDO: While pecorino is a general term for cheese produced from sheep’s milk, Pecorino Toscano PDO hails specifically from sheep’s milk produced in Tuscany and a few municipalities in Umbria and Lazio. It can be made as a soft or semi-hard cheese, depending on the maturation (20 days and four months minimums, respectively). It was relatively mild and slightly salty, with nice richness.

Costa d’Amalfi PGI: Groves for the Costa d’Amalfi PGI lemons were first planted between the 10th and 12th centuries along the coast from Positano and Cetara in Campania. Interestingly, these should not be confused with the lemons of Sorrento, which have their own PGI and are a different variety of lemon. The Costa d’Amalfi lemons are quite large, weighing a minimum of 100 grams and are less acidic than the typical, store-bought lemon. These lemons frequently find their way into limoncello, but as was evidenced by enjoying it on its own, they are great in their unadulterated form, with freshness, beautiful fragrance and bright acidity.

Greek olives: Finally, we have the olives produced in Western Greece, which has a biblical history of olive groves. Formal cultivation of olives within Greece dates to 3500-2500 BCE. Today, the area is home to 150 million olive trees, 600,000 olive farmers and 2,800 mills. The type of olives wasn’t specified, but I suspect them to be Kalamata olives, with their intense briny, acidic and salty flavors.

After making my cocktail and plating up the cheese, olives and crackers, I sat down to enjoy a wonderful collection of tastes and flavors, all of which proved to be a perfect pairing. Overall, I encountered lots of freshness on the plate and in the glass. The next time you are shopping for various ingredients, reward your palate by seeking out the unique products that are produced in very special places. Salut!

From Europe with Love: Abruzzo and the Sweet Wines of Bordeaux


Looking for some new wines to grace your holiday table this season? Or, just want to expand your wine knowledge? Check out the dry wines from Abruzzo and the sweet wines from Bordeaux!

A recent dinner at Lincoln Ristorante welcomed members of the wine press and trade in an effort to better acquaint us with the wines from Abruzzo (Italy) and the sweet wines from Bordeaux (France). This was a wonderful opportunity to reconnect with colleagues after a lengthy hiatus as well as taste through a selection of amazing wines (and delicious food).

Prior to the evening, I had only limited exposure to the wines from Abruzzo, mostly aware of its Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines, but the meal provided a much more in-depth look at the region and the high quality wines it produces.

An historic region, the wines from Abruzzo were mentioned by Pliny the elder. In particular, the centrally located Abruzzo is home to both the Adriatic Sea as well as steep mountains (65% of the region is mountainous and 30% of the land is protected by natural parks) and has a mild climate that becomes more continental in character as one moves inland. Consequently, one can ski during the day and then be at the sea within 30 minutes.

Wine production includes 2 DOCG-level wines, 7 DOCs and 7 IGT (regional) wines. As with elsewhere in Italy, co-ops are very important to the scene, but there are also 200 private wineries in Abruzzo.

Here, the two main varieties are the two already mentioned: the red Montepulciano, which accounts for 80% of production and the white Trebbiano, which is the second most planted grape in the region. This latter variety dates to the 16th century and is considered to be a more more elegant version of the Trebbiano variety, and has the ability to age well.

Another grape of note in the region is Pecorino, which had almost become extinct, but thankfully has had a revival. Grown in both the Le Marche and Abruzzo regions, it is a variety with great acidity, structure and good aging potential.

We next enjoyed a Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, which, when established in 2010, was the first designation in Italy dedicated exclusively to rosé wine. The word cerasuolo refers to the deep pink color of these wines, which are produced from the Montepulciano grape.

Finally, we had a Riserva-level Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which displayed the beauty of these wines, which have elegance and powerful, along with good fruit character, complexity, balance and length.

After our foray into the Abruzzian wines, we turned our attention to dessert. As their name implies, the Sweet Wines of Bordeaux offer up beautiful sweetness in the glass and make for a perfect liquid dessert. Yet, they are versatile enough to pair with savory foods as well, with bright acidity and balance accompanying the sweet notes. At dinner, one had a choice between a cheese course or a chocolate-based dessert, both of which paired equally well with the two Bordeaux wines.

Bordeaux’s sweet wines feature the grape varieties of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and (in some cases) Muscadelle and are produced in several styles as well as several different appellations.

The Bordeaux Moelleux are among the lighter-style wines with nice freshness and sweetness. Conversely, those produced as Bordeaux Supérieur are fuller-bodied, can include Muscadelle in the cepage and are aged for a period of 6 to 18 months in wood vessels.

Additionally, Côtes de Bordeaux Saint-Macaire, covers a geographic area along the right bank of the Garonne River, while Premières Côtes de Bordeaux is used for those made from grapes grown in the vineyards of 39 towns that extend across the right bank of the Garonne river located south of Bordeaux.

However, the wines from the more specific appellations are the ones perhaps best compared with their siblings from Sauternes. In this regard are the wines from Cadillac,
Cérons, Loupiac and Saint-Croix-Du-Mont. The Cadillac appellation (AOC) was established in 1972, while Cérons AOC dates to 1936. The Cadillac wines are produced from late harvest grapes, while grapes for Cerons are affected by noble rot. Regardless, both adhere to strict selections during harvest, all of which is done by hand, with the wines aged for 12 to 18 months. Two other well-regarded appellations are Loupiac, which is the largest of them all, and Saint-Croix-Du-Mont, both of which are produced similarly to Cadillac and Cérons.

While these may not be familiar names to you, the bottom line is that one should keep Bordeaux in mind when it comes to the dessert course.

In this day and age, we are blessed to have access to a wealth of wonderful wines from all over the world, but it is easy to fall into a rut and reach for the same wines time and again. If that sounds like you, I urge you to step out of your comfort zone and explore these two sets of wines; your palate will thank you!

Wishing you all the best for the holiday season and beyond!

TASTING NOTES

Nic Tartaglia Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC 2021, Abruzzo, Italy
Aromas and flavors of pear and white flowers, with bright acidity, medium body, and long length.
Paired with Long Island Fluke Crudo or Misticanza Salad

Fontefico La Canaglia Pecorino d’Abruzzo Superiore DOC 2021, Abruzzo, Italy
As a wine with the Superiore designation, it has been aged for one year, but, in this case, in stainless steel, not wood. Notes of apricot and smoke greet the nose, with a dry palate of medium acidity, medium+ body, culminating in long length.
Paired with Risotto.

Velenosi Prope Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC 2021, Abruzzo, Italy
Beautiful in color, this wine offers up fresh berries and zippy acidity, with good minerality, It is complex and structured, with medium+ body and is much more substantial on the palate than a Provencal-style rose. Good length.
Paired with Branzino or Dry Age Strip Loin.

Masciarelli Villa Gemma Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Riserva 2017, Abruzzo, Italy
Intense nose of red and black fruit, with firm, yet ripe tannins, this wine was aged for 24 24 months before release. It had lovely complexity, good fruit and very long length.
Paired with Branzino or Dry Age Strip Loin.

Chateau de Garbes Cuvee Fut de chene Cadillac AOC 2019, Bordeaux, France
Produced from old vines, this wine was aged for 12 months in oak. It was luscious, with good acidity to balance the sweetness and notes of apricot and other stone fruit.
Paired with Cheese (Aged Parmesan) or Pinola Al Cioccolato.

Chateau Loupiac-Gaudiet Loupiac AOC 2017, Bordeaux, France
Made from botrytized grapes (90% Semillion; 10% Sauvignon Blanc) from 45-year-old vines, this wine displays lovely fruit, spice and vanilla, culminating in long length.
Paired with Cheese (Aged Parmesan) or Pinola Al Cioccolato.


The Diversity and Delight of Languedoc Wines

Nestled in the south of France between the French Riviera and the region of Roussillon, the wines of Languedoc are impressive as well as both food and wallet friendly. If these are not on your radar, they should be given their diversity and sheer delight!

I recently had the pleasure of tasting through a selection of Languedoc wines in a guided tasting with Master Sommelier and owner of Corkbuzz, Laura Maniac. Each wine was beautifully (and deliciously) paired with a small bite, underscoring the ease with which these wines pair with a wide range of cuisine. After our time with Laura, we were led on a brief culinary tour of the Chelsea Market, becoming familiar with other vendors in the venue and the opportunity to sample a few more glasses of Languedoc.



Languedoc’s sunny, Mediterranean climate is tempered with cooling breezes and warm winds, which results in ripe fruit that retains its bright acidity. Thanks to the area’s dry nature, the region has one of the largest organic productions in France with over 30% of producers practicing organic viticulture; another 27% are in progress of converting from conventional practices. In fact, Languedoc launched the world’s first all organic expo — Millesime Bio — in 1993. Additionally, many producers are embracing biodynamics as well. And, with a strong research emphasis on viticulture, centered at L’INRA in Montpellier, the region is well equipped to handle climate change. Moreover, today, the area is home to a quiet revolution as winemakers from elsewhere in France are feeling the pull to make high quality wine within its borders.

Yet, Languedoc is not part of some passing fad. The region boasts 2500 years of wine making history and also lays claim to the discovery of fortification (thanks to Arnaud de Villeneuve in 1285) and sparkling wine production (in 1544 with the creation of Blanquette de Limoux).

The 90,000+ acres of vineyards are planted to 26 different grape varieties, with the majority (59%) of wine production given over to red wine. The balance is equally split among rosé and white wines. Within the vast acreage, there are 20 different appellations within Languedoc, but producers can also choose to bottle their wine under the broader Languedoc AOP. Regardless of the appellation, the wines coming from the region include everyday, inexpensive options, but also collectibles that are showing that this is a region capable of producing at the very top levels.

During the Languedoc event, the wines were custom paired by Chef Yovet Calvario of Corkbuzz; David Seigal, Culinary Director of Lobster Place; and Pablo Lopez, Chef Charcutier of Dickson’s Farmstand Meats.

We started off the tasting with a lusciously aged white wine served with lemon butter shrimp, matching the decadent and rich nature of both the wine and the food. The next bite was arancini with mushrooms, which paired well with a fresh, fruity red. Ricotta crostini (using Laura’s grandmother’s recipe for homemade ricotta) showed spectacularly with a more robust red. The next set of reds went well with an eggplant caponata dish, meatballs in a tomato sauce and chimichurri steak.

At Lobster Place, which has been in business for 45 years, we enjoyed raw oysters and
grilled shrimp, coupled with a fresh white and a fruit-forward rosé, respectively. Then, at Dickson’s, we had the pleasure of seeing how the range of charcuterie brought out the flavors of the wine — a pale rosé and an intense red.

TASTING NOTES

CORKBUZZ
Domaine Les Aurelles, Aurel Blanc 2013, Languedoc, France, $80.00
There are two ex-Bordeaux winemakers behind this wine, which is produced from 100% Roussanne and provides a perfect example of an age-worthy white from this region. Aromas of hazelnut, beeswax and pineapple greet the nose and persist on the dry palate. It is ripe and rich, with good acidity and notes of honey in the long finish.

Cave de Roquebrun, Chemin des Olivettes 2020, Languedoc, France, $13.00
Established in 1967, the Cave de Roquebrun co-op represents 70 winegrowers. This wine brings together 45% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre and 10% Cinsault and displays lots of fresh, red fruit with garrigue/dried herbs, with lavender and pepper especially in finish.

Domaine d’Aupilhac, Lou Maset 2019, Languedoc, France, $23.00
Named for an old, stone hut found in the vineyards of this biodynamic producer, the Lou Maset is intense and angular with fresh, lifted black fruit. A blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, 10% Carignan, 5% Syrah, and 5% Alicante Bouchet, it is quite tannic, with lingering notes of dried orange peel, pepper and herbs.

Jeff Carrel, Les Darons 2019, Languedoc, $15.00
Named “Les Darons” which is an affectionate term used in Parisian suburbs for one’s parents, this is a blend of 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 5% Carignan. It is lush with red and black fruit, woody notes, good, ripe tannins, lots of spice and full body, culminating in long length.

Devois de Perret, Cellier du Pic 2020, Languedoc, France, $14.00
Primarily Syrah, with 25% Grenache, this wine offers up complex aromas of smoke, leather, and dark red cherry. The medium+-bodied palate is fresh with good fruit character and long length.

Château La Negly, Clos des Truffiers 2018, Languedoc, France, $200.00
Originally called Ancely, Château La Negly dates to 1781. Consequently, this wine is produced from some of oldest vines in the region. Bringing together 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache, this is a stunning wine with layers of aromas and flavors. It is very oak dominant, with spice, dill, earth, leather, blackberry, cherries, floral and minerality as well as being rich in texture and tannin, culminating in long length.

LOBSTER PLACE
Château de Lascaux, Garrigue 2021, Languedoc, France, $20.00

This white blend (35% Vermentino, 20% Roussanne, 15% White Grenache, 15% Clairette, 10% Marsanne, and 5% Viognier) offers up fresh fruit and lively acidity with aromas and flavors of unsweetened limeade and tropical fruit with a lovely texture. It paired extremely well with Avelon oysters from Maine.

Gerard Bertrand, Source of Joy 2020, Languedoc, France, $20.00
This organic rosé had a portion of its wine matured in oak barrels, giving it depth and structure on the palate. It shows lots of fresh floral and strawberry notes, with long length.

DICKSON’s FARMSTAND MEATS
Domaine du Pas de l’Escalette, Ze Rozé 2020, Languedoc, France, $13.00

This is a much paler, lighter-bodied rosé, which is the result of a direct press and gentle extraction. With barely any color, it resembles a white more than a rosé, especially with its high acidity, but its berry aromas and flavors belie its true identity as a rosé. 

Domaine de Nizas, Le Clos 2018, Languedoc Pézenas, France, $21.00
Half of this Syrah blend (60% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre and 5% Carignan) spent time in three-year-old French oak barrels. Displaying lots of character and finesse, it is fresh yet tannic, with red fruit and spice, with long length.




Summer Sips 2022, What Wines to Drink Now

Happy Summer! It’s that time of the year when I finally venture outdoors and partake in my favorite pastime – picnics! While I got off to a good start, it’s been a bit quiet lately, but I am looking forward to the holiday weekend to make up for lost time. Regardless, I am super excited about some of my newfound picnic discoveries.

We kicked off the summer season in late April (yes, it is a stretch and it was especially windy on the date in question, but anyway …) with Bisol’s anniversary celebration. This historic Prosecco Superiore producer (see previous stories on Prosecco Superiore here) dates from 1542 and has a member of the 21st generation, Gianluca Bisol, at its helm. The event was held at the Lemon Rooftop in NYC’s Hudson Yards, with its spectacular views of the Hudson River. With free-flowing sparkling wine, guests were provided with the wonderful opportunity to taste through a selection of their Proseccos including:
*Bisol Crede, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
*Jeio Brut, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
*Jeio Prosecco Rosé DOC
NB: Rosé has only recently been approved to be included in the Prosecco DOC and is not permitted for the DOCG.

While you can enjoy these wines anytime of year, the effervescent nature of the wines and celebratory nature of the event, with its great music, good food and delicious wines, were a festive reminder that summer and lighter times were just around the corner.

I am also a bit in love with wines in can from Domaine Bousquet (which I’ve written about previously), which are perfect for their portion control and portability. These lightweight, aluminum cans of 100% certified organic wine are a great option for picnics, beaches that permit alcohol and any other outdoor activities where food and wine are welcome. Plus, they cool quickly and add a lovely flair to your al fresco meals with their food friendly nature and freshness.

A blend of Pinot Noir, Syrah, Pinot Gris and Viognier, Le Petit Verre Bubbly Rosé is slightly effervescent, and offers up lovely citrus and berry notes, with bright acidity on the dry and balanced palate, with long length.

The Le Petit Verre Malbec delivers ripe black fruit aromas and flavors, with good acidity and some complexity, culminating in long length. It was a perfect foil for my BBQ burger craving over Memorial Day Weekend.

These Argentine wines hail from Tupungato,vineyards in the Mendoza region. At an SRP of $13.00 for a four-pack, each 250-ml can provides approximately a glass and a half of wine, at roughly $3.50 per can.

And finally, it was a pleasure to taste two wines from Monte Velho, which provided yet another reminder that Portuguese wines provide great value and great taste. These wines are produced in the Alentejo region and are wonderful examples of indigenous Portuguese varieties. Here, blending has a long history, but today’s wineries are bringing a more modern approach with the deliberate planting of varieties in specific vineyards, rather than relying on the field blends of yesteryear.

A blend of Antão Vaz, Perrum, and Roupeiro, the Monte Velho White 2021 is clean and fresh with medium to full body, with good concentration of ripe white fruits and citrus on the dry palate, with briny minerality and long length.

The Monte Velho Rosé 2021 brings together Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Syrah, Trincadeira and Tinta Caiada, and Arinto, yielding a wine with fresh strawberry and raspberry notes, and a hint of herbaceousness. With medium acidity, medium body and long length, this dry wine was both refreshing and food friendly.

Both wines retail at $12.00/bottle and are certified vegan by the European Vegetarian Union. Moreover, they are shipped in eco-friendly packaging with lighter-weight bottles and 100% varnish-free, recycled cardboard.

I hope these wines inspire your own al fresco dining this summer season!

Building and sustaining relationships at Loveblock Wine

Erica Crawford Loveblock Wine

“Everything is based on relationships.” ~ Erica Crawford

As Erica Crawford of Loveblock Wine stated early on in the evening, “Everything is based on relationships…” which is how a South African medical researcher ended up in New Zealand and ultimately became part of the New Zealand wine industry. In sharing her back story, Erica talked about that first, vital relationship when she met “a Kiwi bloke” at a wine fair in Cape Town, a theme that resonated throughout our time together.

After emigrating to New Zealand and marrying Kim Crawford (the aforementioned “Kiwi bloke”), Erica pursued pharmaceutical sales while her husband established his winemaking career. The two eventually started the eponymously named Kim Crawford winery, building a successful business and brand and selling it in 2003. As a condition of the sale, they had to wait several years before they could resume their life in the industry.

The following year, Erica fell in love with the view of a vineyard situated within the Awatere Valley of New Zealand’s Marlborough region, making the purchase with proceeds from the sale. She appropriately named it Loveblock, which gave name to their next venture, Loveblock Wine, which they launched once the embargo was lifted.

I first met Erica in May 2016, when she was in town to share her Loveblock wines with members of the NYC wine press (see previous post). Back in New York City in May 2022 after a lengthy hiatus, Erica once again met with wine journalists, this time at the newly opened Vinyl Steakhouse.

Over dinner, we talked about the relationship between wine and food. Perusing the menu, Erica recommended the potato croquettes, chosen for having been fried, as a perfect foil for her Pinot Gris. She also suggested that we try the shrimp cocktail, crab cakes and the crispy sushi roll. Not surprisingly, her selections were spot on and we all enjoyed the appetizers with the wine.



We next talked about the relationship between farming and the environment. Upon purchase of the Loveblock land, Erica and Kim decided to plant the vineyard utilizing organic farming practices, which they had already begun to embrace in their diet. Today, their Anchor Estate Vineyard is certified organic by BioGro New Zealand. Moreover, as grape growers and winemakers, they are deeply rooted in sustainability and have inculcated this approach into all that they do. They refer to their philosophy as the “’triple bottom line’ concept: (Profit People Place)”.

As we moved on to our main courses, we talked about music, having fun with Vinyl Steakhouse’s collection of… vinyl. Choosing records from Lou Reed, Stevie Nicks and others, we reminisced about our teenage years and the music that accompanied them.

And eventually we talked about wine. In fact, Erica has to be prompted several times to talk about the individual wines because we have become so engrossed in other conversations.

As noted, we kicked off the meal with the Pinot Gris 2020 from Marlborough. Erica advised us that there has been increased interest in New Zealand Pinot Gris, which made me very happy since I had really enjoyed the Pinot Gris wines I had tasted in New Zealand during my visit in 2011. She clarified that they are crafting wines that provide an alternate option to Pinot Grigio, since theirs is more similar in style to Oregon Pinot Gris. For her, the wine is great as an aperitif and walks the tightrope of sugar and alcohol, while providing good fruit flavor. As I taste it, it is lush on the palate, with good acidity, medium body and notes of almond, pear and citrus, with long length.

We then turned our attention to the two Sauvignon Blancs Erica had brought. The first was the Sauvignon Blanc 2020, which is a relatively typical New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with fresh herbal characteristics joined by fresh citrus fruit, but with less pronounced notes than other NZ SBs. Erica describes it as being broader on the palate with pineapple, peach and cilantro notes, highlighting this latter aroma as making it a great option to pair with greens, especially kale, which can be a tricky wine partner.

Next up is their newest creation: Tee Sauvignon Blanc 2021. As its origin story, the intent was to keep sulfur levels low, but prevent oxidation. As a solution, they discovered a green tea additive in powder form that blocks the enzymes that cause oxidation in wine. In this way, they are able to produce not just a wine made with organic grapes, but actually a certified organic wine that is stable. This latter point is particularly important.

As a result, they have created a completely different iteration of Sauvignon Blanc. Depicted by Erica as having more mandarin, starfruit and spice aromas, the wine is also lower in acidity, yet richer than the first Sauvignon Blanc. It was really intriguing and exciting to taste this wine with its depth and structure, thanks to the tannins from the green tea as well as the six hours of skin contact that the wine received. It culminated in very long length and was my favorite wine of the night.

Our final wine of the evening was the Pinot Noir 2020 produced from fruit grown in Central Otago. This was really lovely with smoke, herbs, cherry and lots of earthiness on the medium bodied palate, along with nice, ripe tannins and good length.

Even though we were at a steakhouse, I opted to forgo the filet mignon and went with the scallops, accompanied by cauliflower purée and crispy prosciutto. It paired beautifully with both the Tee Sauvignon Blanc and the Pinot Noir.

At the end of the night, we were all reluctant to leave having renewed our relationships among Erica and ourselves. And that is everything.



Dining at Home: Elevating Mundane Mondays with Fine Wine

Having arrived at the 2nd anniversary of Covid’s official designation as a global pandemic, the world is slowly returning to a pre-pandemic normal. Yet, in many ways, the world has significantly changed and the way we live is not necessarily the same normal we used to know.

For many, the realities of inflation are further hampering their ability to dine out as before, especially as restaurants try to make up for lost time, lost patrons and lost income. Plus, understandably some people are still wary of dining indoors or being out in big crowds.

In light of these social and economic changes, the way we socialize is in flux. Yet, the need for human connection has never been greater. But staying in to save money and maintain safety doesn’t have to impede one’s plans. Dining at home easily puts the emphasis on what’s important: enjoying quality time with friends and loved ones. Moreover, it is easier and less expensive than finding a mutually agreeable restaurant.

In this vein, I have been returning to hosting people in our apartment much more frequently these days, but in different ways than before. Given this shift, I have been desiring to entertain more lavishly when it comes to cuisine, cocktails and wines. Thus, we are following suit by cooking more elaborate meals and upgrading our wine choices.

As of late, we are inviting couples and small groups for dinner, both on weeknights and weekends, as a way to renew acquaintances, reconnect and recharge. One Monday night, neighborhood friends joined us for a casual dinner of paprika chicken and butternut squash, which was easily enlivened with the Biserno Insoglio del Cinghiale. Similarly, a cold, snowy Saturday was the perfect excuse to skip a walk in the wet weather and host a friend for charcuterie, cheeses and olives in my apartment and break open the Nardi Brunello. And, a Chianti Classico Riserva is always a welcome addition to one’s table.

Your guests certainly won’t complain about being served higher end wines with more complexity and concentration. Such selections can take a mundane Monday and elevate the occasion with the simple twist of a cork.

>>Read on for tasting notes and information on the properties.

TASTING NOTES

Tenuta di Nozzole 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany, Italy, $24.99
Owned by the Folonari family, which has been in the winemaking industry since the 1700s, Tenuta di Nozzole was purchased in 1971, with vineyards dating 700 years.
This wine is produced solely from Sangiovese grapes and then spends 24 months in oak barrels with another 3 months in bottle before being released. The extra ageing earns this wine its Riserva designation and adds to the depth and development of the resulting wine.  

Aromas of red cherry, black cherry, slight oak and wood greet the nose. The dry palate has high acidity, medium+ body and ripe, resolved tannins. It displays more secondary characteristics than primary fruit flavors, culminating in long length.

Tenuta di Biserno 2019 Insoglio del Cinghiale, Tuscany, Italy, $42.99
The Tenuta di Biserno property stems from a partnership between Marchese Lodovico Antinori, creator of Italian legends Ornellaia and Masseto, and his brother Marchese Piero Antinori, President of acclaimed Antinori Wines, in collaboration with legendary Oenologist, Michel Rolland. Situated in the Upper Maremma, the vineyards are home to a unique microclimate, which the collaborators felt well suited to Cabernet Franc, which is less common in the region. This particular wine is an interesting blend of 33% Syrah, 33% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot.

With notes of smoke, oak, blackberry and earth, the beautifully balanced wine offers up good acidity, full body and ripe tannins. The dry, complex palate shows flavors of blackberry, smoke, a hint of raisin, and earth, along with long length.

Tenute Silvio Nardi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, $83.00
Founded by Silvio Nardi who purchased Casale del Bosco estate in 1950 and became a leader in the establishment of the Brunello di Montalcino denomination, Tenuta Silvio Nardi has become a highly regarded producer of these wines. Today, Silvio’s youngest daughter, Emilia Nardi, is at the helm of the winery, working in consultation with enologist Eric Boissenot, one of the world’s top ten winemaking consultants. As a Brunello, this wine is made entirely of Sangiovese and, as per law, is aged for 30 months in wood barrels and 12 months in bottle.  

On the nose, this wine displays notes of ripe cherries, oak, and a slight leafy note. The dry, full-bodied palate has bright acidity, with rich, concentrated fruit of cherry and berry, along with a hint of oak and very long length. It is still quite tannic and needs time In bottle to develop.

Wonderful wines for the table

There are meditation wines, cocktail-party wines and those that are really best enjoyed with food. With the holiday season upon us, the latter two are in particular demand as we head to family gatherings, holiday parties and other social events.

Wines best for the table generally have bright, vibrant acidity, which I have heard by one sommelier described as a “highlighter” of the meal, underscoring the flavor of the food. In this regard, there are a wide variety of choices with all colors (white, orange, rose and red) as well as both the absence and presence of effervescence very welcome in one’s glass.

Here are a wealth of options to consider as you shop the wine aisle or webpage of your favorite retailer or peruse the wine list while dining out.

Sparkling wines
As noted above, sparkling wines are very food friendly and most have beautiful acidity. Moreover, the sparkle in sparkling wines further cleanses the palate and makes them great for toasting at the table. Plus, we can’t discount the fun factor that bubbles add to any occasion, so they are especially appropriate for the celebratory season.

I’ve written about Prosecco Superiore numerous times (see this, this and this) because these are well-made wines at a great price. Produced via the tank method, these wines emphasize fruit and floral aromas and flavors and some have a slight sweetness (but are still decidedly dry) that can pair well with spice.

Albino Armani Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Veneto, Italy $19.99
Aromas and flavors of floral and pear, with nice consistent perlage, freshness on the palate, culminating in long length.

White and Orange Wines
Many white wines are good pairing partners due to their acidity, light to medium body and range of flavors to mix and match with what is being served. This is equally true of Chardonnay, plus it has some additional characteristics which work well with food such as its fuller body, which means it can stand up to richer, heavier fare. Similarly, those Chardonnays with buttery or woody notes are great options if you wish to echo these flavors in the food. For example, a rich, buttery Chardonnay paired with lobster tails in a creamy butter sauce.

Merry Edwards 2019 Olivet Lane Chardonnay, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $68.00
Aromas of butter and smoke greet the nose and persist on the elegant palate, with apple and citrus flavors, good acidity, medium+ body and very long length.

Another “white” variety with some chameleon properties is Pinot Grigio (also known as Pinot Gris). In fact, the grape is not white, but rather gray (hence its name — both grigio and gris translate as gray in Italian and French, respectively). Yet, it can be produced in shades of white as well as orange.

Albino Armani Corvara Pinot Grigio 2019, Valdadige DOC, Italy, $14.99
Notes of smoke and tangerine give way to pear and minerality on the dry palate, with medium acidity, medium+ body and long length.

About Albino Armani
Albino Armani is a family-owned winery with five wineries situated in Northeast Italy and is particularly well regarded as a producer of Pinot Grigio (the family has been producing it for 400 years). In fact, Mr. Armani is presently President of the Consorzio Pinot Grigio delle Venezie. He believes that the best climate for this grape is a cool climate with temperatures that range 55-59F, otherwise the resulting wines are lacking in acidity. In this regard, the Alto Adige region is perfect with its continental climate, good diurnal shifts and extended daylight hours. He produces several Pinot Grigio wines, including two single vineyard bottlings: one from the Corvara Vineyard and the other from the Colle Ara Vineyard.

Found within Valdadige, the Corvara Vineyard is surrounded by mountains, whose limestone rock reflects sunlight onto the vines. Constant winds from these mountains and nearby Lake Garda help ward off disease.

From the Colle Ara Vineyard within the Terra dei Forti denomination (which was created 25 years ago), Albino produces a ramato style Pinot Grigio. Pale copper in color, this hue of this wine stems from skin contact: the grape juice is macerated with the grape skins for a brief period of time leaching color from the skins.  Recalling the wines of his childhood, Albino sought to reintroduce this traditional production method in creating this wine.

Lighter-bodied Reds: Schiava and Pinot Noir
Lighter bodied reds, especially ones with bright acidity, are another terrific option since they won’t overpower the food, but still have freshness to cleanse the palate. Two such grapes that fit this bill are Schiava and Pinot Noir.

Certainly not a household name (at least not yet), the Schiava grape variety
(also known as Vernatsch or Trollinger) hails from the Alto Adige region of Italy, where It has been cultivated since the 16th century. The variety is also grown in Germany, especially in the Baden-Wurttemberg area. Overall, these wines are lighter bodied, dry reds with aromas and flavors of berries, almonds and violets.

Today, the grape is finding renewed favor in the region, with more attention paid to quality both in the vineyard areas and in the winery. Thankfully, many older (80-100 year old) vines still exist, which adds complexity to the wines. With their vibrant acidity, light body and low tannins, Schiava wines are well suited to a wide range of cuisine including charcuterie, cheeses, pasta dishes, pizza as well as Asian cuisine.

Alois Lageder Vernatsch – Schiava 2020, Alto Adige, Italy, ~$20.00
Pale garnet in color, this wine has a stunning nose of cranberry and earth. The palate is dry, with tart acidity, medium- body and flavors of earth, cranberry, pomegranate, and smoke, finishing with medium+ length.

Castel Sallegg Wine Estate Schiava Bischofsleiten 2020 Sudtirol, Alto Adige Lago di Caldaro Scelto Classico, ~$20.00
Slight herbal aromas on the nose become more pronounced on the dry palate and are joined by cherry and berry notes. High acidity, medium body and long length. This was beautiful with roasted chicken.

Likewise, Pinot Noir is a quintessential quaffer at the table. With its bright acidity and depth of flavors from fruity to floral and herbal to earthy, it provides a robust palette from which to pair various dishes. Moreover, the range of styles currently produced (cooler climate vs. warmer climate) adds to the options from which to choose.

About Merry Edwards

I've once again had the pleasure of tasting through a number of Merry Edwards single vineyard Pinot Noirs, which I've discussed previously (see here, here and here). It was wonderful to revisit some favorites, especially the Bucher Vineyard.

Merry Edwards PINOT NOIR 2019, Sonoma Coast(CA), USA, $54.00
Aromas of cherries, earth and spice repeat on the palate, along with flavors of plum and berry. The dry palate has medium acidity, medium body, soft tannins, and long length.

Merry Edwards BUCHER PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00
This wine offers up deeper, darker notes of spice, black cherries and an undercurrent of earth, with bright acidity, medium+ body, medium tannins and very long length.

Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $80.00
Red and black fruit and slight herbal notes pervade the nose, while the dry, yet very ripe palate presents flavors of black cherry, spice, and dried herbs, with medium acidity, medium to full body, ripe tannins and long length.

Yet, even with the fruitier styles of Pinot Noir available in the market, they might not be the perfect foil for heartier fare. For dishes such as beef stews and pork chops, one might prefer a full-bodied red with good acidity, ripe tannins and lovely fruit flavors such as an Amarone or Cabernet Sauvignon.

Albino Armani Amarone Riserva Cuslanus 2015, Veneto, Italy, $59.99
Beautiful nose, showing some development, with spice, wood, dried cherries and plum. The dry palate offered up medium+ acidity, medium+-to-full body and long length.

To learn more about Valpolicella and Amarone, please see this issue of Drinking Wisely & Well.




Making Merry for the Holidays

It continues to be a weird year, one which has spilled over into the holiday season as we ushered in Thanksgiving and now await the arrival of the December celebrations. While some people did observe their usual traditions and headed home for the holidays, many took heed and stayed home, gathering around much tinier tables than in years past.

Moreover, we searched for new ways to mark the occasion taking public safety, risk tolerance and other factors into consideration. In this vein, the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade went ahead (sort of) as usual, but with previously taped segments and a lack of crowds.

Similarly, after half a decade of celebrating as a twosome, my husband and I decided to break with our own tradition and welcome a small group of friends (bringing us to a total of 6 people) for the Thanksgiving meal. We planned our menu to incorporate fresh ideas (waffled turkey burger sliders on Hawaiian Dinner Rolls and Mexican Chocolate Spiced Pumpkin Pie) and some old favorites (Butternut Squash Soup and Cranberry-Citrus Chutney), alongside some staples: Brussel Sprouts and Mashed Potatoes.

As we sat down to dinner, we welcomed everyone to the table and dusted off our well-loved tradition of encouraging each guest to share a brag, a gratitude and a desire. We were also delighted to add in a new tradition – choosing American wine for an American holiday. Accordingly, it was a pleasure to share several recently released Merry Edwards’ wines with our assembled guests.

Pinot Noir is always a favorite of mine for Thanksgiving because it is very versatile to pair with the plethora of flavors that permeate the diverse dishes of the holiday. This year was no exception and it was a delight to open up these bottles with our guests who very much enjoyed the delicious indulgence. These wines are similarly suited to other celebratory meals for this same reason.

And, our friend Aleksandra suggested another new tradition, asking each person to list their “firsts” for this year, reframing some of the chaos and confusion the pandemic has wrought on our lives. Among my firsts was making macrons and performing burlesque.

With Thanksgiving in the rearview mirror, it’s time to turn our attention to Chanukah, Kwanza, Christmas and New Year’s, which again will require restraint and resolve as we navigate these times. Yet, we can still enjoy the holidays with good food, good wine and good company, even if the group is smaller than usual.

As the year draws to a close, it is the perfect time to acknowledge all that we are grateful for, while raising a glass in anticipation of better times. Cheers!

TASTNG NOTES

Merry Edwards BUCHER PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00
Named for the Bucher family who founded their dairy here back in 1958, the Bucher Vineyard was initially planted to Pinot in 1997 as part of the family’s initiative to branch out to other industries. The partnership between John and Diane Bucher and Merry and Ken began in 2016 during which Merry selected two hillside blocks to produce this single vineyard wine. These two Butcher blocks total 2.13 acres – essentially just a small spit of land; consequently only 230 cases of this wine are produced. This is the third vintage under this partnership.
Aromas of earth, spice, and dried flowers greet the nose. The palate is dry with medium+ body and flavors of black pepper, spice, earth and dried cherries, culminating in long length. We especially enjoyed this one!

Merry Edwards FLAX VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $63.00
Merry has been working with the Flax family since 2004 and has been a strong supporter of this vineyard, expanding the quantity of fruit she purchased as it became available. Her dedication further grew when she made the commitment to take on a long-term lease of the property in 2009. The Flax’ have since sold to Steve and Donna Hicks in 2012, but the relationship continues to this day as the new owners have continued to collaborate with Merry and have also made important improvements such as the installation of pig- and deer-proof fence. Fruit is sourced from a total of 6.9 acres, yielding 720 cases.
Fresh floral and berry notes give way to lusher, riper red fruit along with dried and fresh herbs on the palate. The wine offers up bright acidity, medium+ body and long length.

Merry Edwards MEREDITH ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $72.00
With 20 planted acres, the Meredith Estate vineyard is the largest property of those featured in this article, resulting in a much larger case production of 1,400. This abandoned apple orchard in the Sebastopol Hills was purchased by Merry in 1996 and planted to Pinot in 1998. They practice sustainable agriculture, with the use of cover crops and other earth-friendly farming approaches.
Red and black cherries feature prominently on the nose, with a fruitier profile than the Warren’s Hill, along with notes of wet leaves and an herbal undercurrent. The dry palate provides a decidedly savory note, with medium+ body, high acidity and very long length.

Merry Edwards WARRENS’ HILL PINOT NOIR 2018, Green Valley and Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $66.00
While Merry and Ken have leased this vineyard site since 2009, as the vineyard hit its 20th year, it became evident that replanting was needed. Cuttings from an old vineyard of Lee Martinelli’s were propagated in the nursery and replanted on the site in 2012. The vineyard, formerly planted by Warren Dutton, has now been renamed Warren’s Hill, in memory of Merry’s son, Warren, who passed away in 2006 and had been named in honor of Merry’s friends Warren Dutton and Warren Arnold. Thus, the site’s new name recognizes and honors all three Warrens in Merry’s life.  The 5.5 acres produced 440 cases.
This wine displays notes of mushroom, herbs, spice, cherry on both the nose and palate with an earthy finish. It offers up bright acidity, medium+ body and long length and was a more elegant expression than the Meredith Estate.

Merry Edwards LATE HARVEST SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018, Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $48.00
As a new addition to the Merry Edwards portfolio, this is the first vintage which saw a harvest of Sauvignon Blanc grapes from the Maefield Vineyard, which had been planted in 2015. The vineyard yielded both regularly harvested and late harvest grapes, the latter of which was affected by noble rot and thus permitted the production of this sweet wine. This is not an easy feat in the Russian River Valley, where fog and moisture can easily turn to grey rot instead of the more beneficial botrytis cinera, responsible for creating luscious dessert wines. Not surprisingly, only a small production (250 cases) was made.
A pronounced nose of apricots, oranges, flowers with medium sweetness beautifully balanced by high acidity. It is medium+ bodied with flavors of apricot, dried orange, white flowers and long length. It would be lovely paired with custards, fresh fruit and other lighter desserts such as apple pie.

For more information on Merry Edwards, you check out her website and read my previous articles:
-Drinking Wine in Interesting Times
-In Pursuit of Pleasure, Promise and Pinot