Not just another gadget, Coravin kills at anniversary dinner demo

Where were you 10 years ago? Some days I have trouble remembering where I was 10 hours ago (let alone 10 years), but in this case, about 10 days ago, I had the distinct pleasure of celebrating Coravin’s 10th anniversary with founder, Greg Lambrecht. It was a wonderful evening spending time with the intelligent and personable Lambrecht as we learned about the genesis of this unique wine device, designed to preserve the integrity of an “open” bottle of wine.

As an inventor and MIT-trained physicist, Lambrecht develops medical devices for spinal injuries through his company, Intrinsic Therapeutics, Inc.  When one has such capacity, it’s hard not to use those same skills to solve your own “problems”.

His “problem”? How to enjoy high quality wine in a single serving without negatively impacting the rest of the bottle/wine (once a wine is opened and has exposure to air/oxygen, it will eventually begin to oxidize). The situation was exacerbated when his wife became pregnant and gave up drinking. A devout, long-time wine aficionado (Lambrecht first fell in love with wine at age 16 on a trip to the Napa Valley), he wanted to be able to enjoy a glass or two with dinner. Thus, he sought to address the problem for his own daily enjoyment.

His initial thoughts on how to build a better mouse trap (such as mimicking tools like the Vacuvin) didn’t seem to yield the correct solution. Thus, while he felt that he needed a better way to solve this conundrum, it wasn’t until he came upon the key thought – to not open the bottle – that idea for Coravin came about.

The first prototype debuted in 1999 and was dubbed the “mosquito” by his young son. Prototype 1.5 included the all-important regulator, which he quickly discovered was essential due to the extreme pressure of the gases (argon or nitrogen) being pumped into the bottle to replace the lost (aka drink) wine.

It took 14 iterations to get it right. But, despite the time and energy invested in these iterations, it wasn’t until 2011 that he founded the company, Coravin, recognizing that it could become a commercial product able to solve the same issue for other people. The Coravin product was officially launched in 2013.

Building on that success, his latest product is Vinitas, which came about as a request from wine director, Daniel Johannes during the Pandemic. Johannes wanted to be able to send out samples of high-end wines for his La Paulee event since meeting in person wasn’t an option. Lambrecht took on the challenge, but it took a full three years to develop the tool. The resulting machine breaks down the volume of a bottle of wine into fractions, while ensuring that the wine remains unharmed by exposure to air. Lambrecht joked it is the “smallest bottling line”.

While not ready in time to address Johannes’ quandary over La Paulee, Vinitas is useful for wineries and wine stores to permit the customer to more easily sample wine with a smaller commitment and is currently available to be leased.

Today, Coravin is available in 60 different countries and Lambrecht now spends only 50% of his time in medical devices development, traveling worldwide to promote his vinous inventions.

Not surprisingly, as someone who invents devices that improve people’s health, Lambrecht has always been motivated by the desire to positively influence people’s lives. Consequently, he is extremely gratified by the positive impact that Coravin has had on the wine world and in the way that people drink wine. is also proud to be a disrupter and shared stories of how he was initially met with skepticism or even outright disdain. In this regard, the sommelier of a prestigious German restaurant refused to take a meeting with him and the owner of a French chateau threatened to thwart his product by the insertion of a metal strip under the capsule. Both of whom eventually saw Coravin’s benign benefit. Similarly, wine critic Robert Parker made it clear that he had no interest in “gadgets” yet by the end of the meal he shared with Lambrecht, he was a true convert.

Which brings me back to the Coravin celebration with Lambrecht at Le Pavillion restaurant in New York City, at which we tasted a 2001 Bordeaux, which had been “opened” 19 years ago under Coravin. It was still very enjoyable and showed no signs of oxidation. It was quite a triumph, even to Lambrecht who had only previously anticipated a 15-year window. Equally impressive, if not more so, we tasted Rare Champagne 2008, which had been opened under Coravin for two weeks and was still very effervescent, displaying small, persistent bubbles for over an hour in my glass!  

Coravin is not particularly intended for the average consumer to purchase directly (although if you have the means, I am sure they would be happy to sell it to you). Rather, the average consumer can certainly benefit from Coravin by having the opportunity to taste high end wines at restaurants and wine bars without having to invest in an entire bottle.

So, on the arrival of Coravin’s anniversary, I invite you to raise a glass and toast the ingenuity of a wine-obsessed physicist. Cheers to Lambrecht and cheers to Coravin!


Summer Sippers: 2023 Edition

Summertime… and the living is easy (or at least less encumbered compared to winter – no hats, gloves or scarves or bulky winter coats).

The Summer Solstice is upon us, and, although the weather doesn’t quite feel like it, it is indeed summertime and the season for barbecues, picnics and other outdoor endeavors. It’s a great time to gravitate towards fresh whites, lighter reds and the ubiquitous roses. Sparkling wines are also a fabulous option for this time of year (check out my story on Moscato d’Asti).

Villa Maria EarthGarden Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, New Zealand, $20.00
From one of my favorite NZ producers, this wine is produced as a blend of 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes harvested from several vineyards, all of which are sustainably grown. What that means is that the vineyards are free from synthetic pesticides and herbicides and are planted with a plethora of wildflowers to attract bees and beneficial insects. The nose offers up pronounced aromas of grapefruit and a slight herbal note. The medium bodied palate is fresh and bright, with grapefruit, herbs and the addition of lime, culminating in long length.

Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2021, Barossa Valley, Australia, $14.00
This wine underwent wild fermentation and lees aging, both of which add depth and complexity to the wine. With distinct floral, tangerine and tropical fruit aromas on the nose, the full bodied palate provides good acidity, joined by flavors of ginger and citrus, with long length.


C’Est La Vie Pinot Noir Syrah 2020, Vin de Pays, France, $13.00
From Burgundian producer, Albert Bichot, this red blend (60% Pinot Noir and 40% Syrah) is a fresh and lively, easy drinking wine that’s perfect for a picnic or barbecue. With aromas of spice, earth, smoke and berries, it is dry, yet ripe, on the palate with medium+ acidity, medium+ body and medium+ length.

Moscato d’Asti: In an Asti vibe

Are you in an Asti vibe? A recent Masterclass was the perfect opportunity to reacquaint myself with these sweet, sparkling wines from Italy’s Piedmont region. With the goal of transferring the grape to the glass, these wines benefit from the Moscato Bianco grape variety’s highly aromatic character.

Situated within Piedmont is the province of Asti, at the foot of the Italian Alps. The climate is influenced by both the mountains and its proximity to the sea and the soils are comprised of ancient sea beds. Viticulture must be manual due to the significantly steep vineyards. The various altitudes and variety of soils conspire to produce a range of aromatic compounds that provide complexity in the glass.

Here, Moscato Bianco grapes have been grown in the area since 1510, a transplant from the Middle East. There are 51 towns who lay claim to the Moscato d’Asti DOCG, which was the first sparkling wine produced in Italy back in 1865 by Carlo Gancia.

Utilizing the Charmat Method, the wines are pressurized in stainless steel tanks,
preserving the aromatics in the wine and adding a slight effervescence, with a maximum of 2 bars of pressure (by contrast Champagne and other fully sparkling wines have 5 yo 6 bars of pressure).

The production method also requires that the wines maintain sweetness. Consequently, they generally range from 120-150 g/l of residual sugar, which is well balanced with sufficient acidity and bubbles. This also means that these wines are much lower in alcohol with 5-6% alcohol by volume.

With this lightness, freshness and lower alcohol, these are great wines for the heat of summer and are a perfect pairing with fruit, light desserts or an excellent counterbalance to a salty, savory dish such as prosciutto with melon.

TASTING NOTES

Coppo Moncalvina Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy
Coppo has been making Moscato since day one of the winery, among its other wines. Aromas of floral notes, gardenia and pear greet the nose. The palate is medium sweet, light bodied, with good effervescence and freshness. The acidity and sweetness are well balanced, with flavors of lemon candy and floral, culminating in long length.

Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy
At Chiarlo, they take great pride in managing the Moscato vineyards with the same care they give to Barolo vines. The wine displayed lots of visible bubbles, with aromas of peach and blossom. The palate was less sweet than the Coppo, with great acidity, light body, peach flavors, persistent bubbles, and long length.

Caudrina La Caudrina Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy
Redolent of honeysuckle, this wine is medium sweet, yet fresh, with lovely effervescence; flavors of honey, honeysuckle and hint of herbs; culminating in medium+ length.

I Vignaioli di Santo Stefano – Ceretto Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy
A fresh nose with honey and cantaloupe aromas and flavors, this wine is off dry, with bright and lively acidity on the palate. The mouthwatering character of the wine lingers in the medium+ length.

Marenco Scrapona Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2022, Piedmont, Italy
The mention of Scrapona on the label refers to a specific vineyard from which the grapes for this wine are harvested. Slight skin contact resulting in a hint of color. White flowers, fresh, balanced, lightly sweet, pear, honey, long length with a clean finish.

Let’s hear it for Grenache/Garnacha: Winners of the International Competition Grenaches du Monde just announced

I had the pleasure of serving as a juror for the 11th annual International Competition Grenaches du Monde. As such, I tasted through 80 wine samples featuring the Grenacha, aka Garnacha, grape, in all of its guises: white, rosé, red, and fortified sweet wines. This grape variety is capable of creating world class wines and, from the blind samples I tasted, it was clear that there is a lot of wonderful wine being produced and expertly showcasing this great grape.

Organized by the Asociación Garnacha Origen of Spain and the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Roussillon/ CIVR of France, this year’s competition was held outside of Europe for this very first time. It featured over 800 Garnacha/Grenache wines from producers across France, Spain, Italy, and the US, which were judged by a panel of 80 U.S. wine industry jurors, including sommeliers, media, distributors, importers, and influencers.

Wines were judged in early to mid-June, with the results announced this week. A total of 233 wines of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and 35 wines from the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) earned medals.

To view the 286 medalists, visit International Competition Grenaches du Monde Medalists 

LEARN MORE | OTHER LINKS

Link to INTRODUCTION TO GARNACHA/GRENACHE

Link for GARNACHA/GRENACHE BACKGROUND INFORMATION

Link to Wines of Garnacha/Grenache Infographics

Link to GarnachaGrenache 

Another Pineau to Know: Pineau des Charentes

Fortified wines aren’t very well known among most consumers, And, no, it has nothing to do with vitamins. Rather, the fortification comes in the form of the addition of a grape-based spirit to raise the alcohol level and consequently halt the fermentation process. As a result, some of the sweetness in the wine remains instead of being fully converted to alcohol as would be the case with a dry wine.

While Port, Sherry and Madeira are more recognizable in this category, Pineau des Charentes is definitely deserving of consideration. It hails from the Charente and Charente-Maritime regions of France, which is where Cognac is made and has had Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status since 1945, which guarantees quality and an adherence to minimum production requirements.

In particular, it must be aged for at least 18 months, 12 of which must be spent in oak. Wines designated as “old” must age for a minimum of seven years, while the “very old” must age for 12 years. Produced from Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Folle Blanche and other local grape varieties, it shares many similarities with Cognac, but are generally sweet wines, with an alcohol level of 17% (compared to 40% proof Cognac).

Not surprisingly, with its freshness and lower alcohol, it is well suited to cocktails. In fact, it is quite versatile and diverse in its expression, yielding a wide range of options. These wines can also be enjoyed on their own and can be a great pairing throughout the meal – not just with dessert – despite their sweetness. Rather, they are quite food friendly, a point made abundantly clear at a recent dinner at l’Accolade in New York City’s West Village neighborhood.

Presided over by Ms. Franky Marshall, who bills herself as a modern bartender, the evening got off to a great start with a Pineau & Tonic with thyme and grapefruit, which beautifully displayed the freshness, balance and aromatics of this wine. Franky has been working with Pineau des Charentes since 2017, and, once we were seated, paired each dish with a different Pineau option. In this fashion, she joked that we were “speed dating” the wines.

I was very impressed with the breadth and depth of what was in the glass and really enjoyed drinking the Pineaus with the meal.

With my Coconut Shrimp appetizer, prepared with coconut, peanut dressing and a pepper cabbage salad, I enjoyed two Pineau des Charentes. The first of which was distinctly floral with maple aromas and flavors, while the second option was more intense and heavier in its texture and weight on the palate. They each matched well, but I was more partial to the former, as a counterpoint to the dressing.

My main course of Monkfish served with zuchini, shrimp nage and mango puree was accompanied by one with caramel notes and a clean finish and another that was lighter, with bright acidity. Both were really lovely with the richness of the dish.

For dessert, I had the chocolate mousse with almondine, orange chocolate cake and almond puree. My Pineau pairings included a wine with light citrus notes that was medium sweet yet well balanced, with an herbal undercurrent. The other was more complex, with fuller body, caramel, burnt orange and rancio aromas and flavors, that had been aged for 15 years. The two wines paired really well, but the second wine was my favorite of the two for its complexity and rancio character.

If these wines are not on your radar (and likely they aren’t), I encourage you to seek them out or perhaps encourage your favorite bartender to try their hand at Pineau cocktails – for a twist on a classic or their own, new creation.

For more information on Pineau des Charentes, check out the Pineau Academy: https://pineauacademy.com/


What’s your vice? Consider The Vice wines your next vice.

What’s your vice? For Malek Amrani and his wife, Tori Greenberg, the answer is wine. A former sales professional for Moet Hennessy and Diageo, Malek has a keen understanding of the wine world and consumer preferences. He also counts pizza and triathlons among his “moral faults”, while Tori’s other vices include fashion, sleep and rose.

The pair always dreamed of owning their own winery and now they do. In fact, while they launched The Vice several years ago, they recently opened a permanent location in St. Helena in the Napa Valley, further cementing their dream.

On the joint holidays of National Wine Day and National Chardonnay Day, Malek hosted a virtual tasting with members of the media to celebrate the opening as well as the release of their 100th wine. As a self-defined “luxury wine brand,” the wines are produced in small, numbered batches.

Primarily focused on Napa Valley terroir, The Vice’s mission is to make exceptional wines accessible. In pursuit of this goal, Malek currently works with 18 different varieties, sourced from 14 of Napa’s 16 AVAs. Their white label wines are their house tier, while the black label is reserved for single vineyard wines.

Among the most recent batches is the aforementioned 100th wine. Aptly named The Napa Dream (and also referred to as Batch #100), it is a Chardonnay sourced from a Certified Napa Green vineyard situated “at the far eastern edge of Los Carneros AVA”. It spent 30 months in new French Oak barrels.

TASTING NOTES

The Vice The Napa Dream Batch #100 Chardonnay 2020, Los Carneros (CA), USA, $46.00
This wine is deep golden yellow with nutty, butterscotch aromas that persist on the dry, rich full-bodied palate. It has bright acidity and flavors of roasted nuts, caramel, citrus and minerality, culminating in long length. Lovely and complex.

The Vice Orange of Viognier ‘Brooklynites 6.0’ 2022, California, USA, $33.00
With Viognier grapes sourced from Napa’s Oak Knoll District and Brentwood, Contra Costa, this wine brings together two different climates and thus a diversity of expression. It offers up floral and peach aromas, which persist on the palate with fresh acidity, medium body and long length. It is really refreshing, easy to drink (too easy!?!) and food friendly.

The Vice The OG, Cabernet Franc 2021, Los Carneros (CA), USA, $54.00
As Malek shared at the event, Cabernet Franc is fast becoming the hottest grape in Napa Valley (more so than Cabernet Sauvignon). Leafy and cranberry aromas greet the nose, with a dry palate, bright acidity, medium+ body and flavors of wet leaves and plum, with long length. Powerful, yet balanced.

Make Mine A Malbec, 2023 edition, a reflection on winemaking style

As I’ve written before, the Malbec grape originated in France and is currently grown in Bordeaux, the Loire Valley and Cahors. But, despite Malbec’s association with France, it is planted in much greater numbers in Argentina. More specifically, Argentina’s long relationship with Malbec dates to 1853 when agronomist Michel Aimé Pouget brought the grape to from Europe to the New World country, having been hired to run an agricultural school there. In addition to the school’s influence, Argentina’s early viticulture was also shaped by Italian and French immigrants, who brought their grape growing experience and expertise with them.

Not surprisingly, I have had the opportunity to compare and contrast Malbec-based wines in the past, both with regard to producer as well as with regard to region of production (i.e. Argentina vs. France).

However, I recently had the particularly interesting chance to taste two Malbecs side-by-side, which differed markedly in winemaking approaches: traditional red wine production vs. carbonic maceration.

Traditional red wine production is fairly well known and understood by consumers, but carbonic maceration is less familiar, since it is mostly confined to the production of Beaujolais Noveau. Utilizing intracellular fermentation, carbonic maceration typically produces lighter style wines with a fresh fruit flavor profile. This was not a winemaking technique brought to bear on the Malbec grape… until now. In fact, there appears to be a trend among Argentine producers (see: this story) in using this unusual approach with Argentinian grapes.

Now, joining this small coterie of carbonic macerators, Domaine Bousquet has added its Gaia Nouveau Malbec to the mix. Produced with certified organic Malbec grapes, winemaker Rodrigo Serrano decided, “Why not try to make a carbonic maceration Malbec?” Answering his own question affirmatively, the first wine was made with the 2022 vintage to rave reviews.

The counter balance, with a more traditional approach, was Antigal’s Uno Malbec 2019, also made with organic Malbec grapes and produced solely in stainless steel tanks (no wood/oak influence).

I was previously introduced to Antigal in 2018 (see story). Obviously a lot has happened in the world since then, so it was a pleasure to receive a sample of the current vintage of this wine to reacquaint myself. Proudly bearing its metallic numeral 1 breast plate, this wine comes from Antigal’s Uno collection.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Nouveau Malbec 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $20.00
(100% Malbec, certified organic)
This wine presents with fresh berry aromas. It is light bodied, with fresh berries and a hint of earth, with lively acidity and bright freshness on the dry palate with long length.

Antigal Uno Malbec 2019, Uco Valley, Argentina, $18.00
(100% Malbec, organic grapes)
This wine has a pronounced nose with black and blue fruit, spice and vanilla, which persist on the dry palate, with ripe, medium-firm tannins, culminating with medium+ length.

Where everyday is Earth Day…Domaine Bousquet and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Earth Day has come and gone, but while the holiday is a reminder that we must protect and cherish our planet, a single day is obviously not enough to do so. To a very real and certain extent, EVERY day should be Earth Day!

Although we can find fault with many industries and organizations, within the world of wine, there are a number of important and impressive examples of wine regions and individual wineries who are making the investment and having an impact with their actions.

In particular, Domaine Bousquet stands as a beacon, having been organic from the “get go”. Along these lines, winery owner, Anne Bouquet refers to herself as an “Organic Revolutionary” and an “International Citizen”, both of which are well deserved and apt descriptors of her commitment to sustainability in all that they do. She is joined by lead winemaker, Rodrigo Serrano, in their quest to lead the region in organic viticulture and sustainability efforts. This “teacher’s soul” has been at the winery for the past five years, and is truly passionate about details in achieving these overarching goals.

The winery has been Certified Organic for over 25 years and has also been certified by Demeter and Biodyvin for its conversion to biodynamic viticulture. They have recently added ROC (regenerative organic certification) certification to their list of organic certifications and are 360 sustainable.

Equally telling, as of this year (2023), they are now a certified B Corp organization. “B Corp Certification is a designation that a business is meeting high standards of verified performance, accountability, and transparency on factors from employee benefits and charitable giving to supply chain practices and input materials.” (From B Lab) Some of their wines also are certified as organic Kosher, Vegan and Gluten-free.

Yet, they are not content to rest on their laurels; future endeavors seek to reduce their CO2 and H2O footprints, especially as there is less snow in the mountains due to climate change.

The winery is also expanding its focus to address other issues such as making low calorie wine, low alcohol wine and organic wine (as opposed to making wine with organic grapes, but with conventional winemaking). In this regard, the biggest challenge is to avoid using SO2, which is an antioxidant and anti-microbial, among other things. These expansions have been challenging, but rewarding as the results are finally realized in the glass.

Across the pond, the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano consortium in Italy’s Tuscany region has been similarly hard at work in pushing a sustainability agenda. The result of its hard work was its award of the Equalitas standard’s sustainability certification, making it the first (and currently only) Italian wine denomination to achieve this milestone. The certification trademark extends to the entire region and is the result of a program initially implemented in the early 1990s and then built upon over the years.

To receive this prestigious certification entails “compliance with a high number of environmental requirements (like biodiversity and the measuring of carbon and water footprints) and socio-economic requirements (like verifying that the principles of freedom of association and equal opportunity are respected).”

Among these efforts, in 2006, the consortium partnered with the municipal government to collect organic waste from the vineyards for use in the production of combustion biomass to supply energy to school and government buildings. Further, the region’s Carbon Footprint project became a national model in 2015.

Of course, these commitments are not at the expense of their commitment to making high quality wine. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is among Italy’s top designated wines having been promoted to DOCG status in 1980. Yet, it often gets overshadowed by its Tuscan neighbors: Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, whose wines also sport the Sangiovese grape.

The good news is that these wines are often well priced and provide great drinking pleasure. So you can feel good about their commitments to the Earth as you enjoy swirling, sipping and savoring them in your glass.

TASTING NOTES


TASTING NOTES: Domaine Bousquet

Domaine Bousquet LO CA Chardonnay 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $14.00
LO CA is a local calorie and low alcohol wine, which required numerous attempts to get it right due to ensure a wine that was stable and of the quality they desired. The resulting wine has 9% abv and 2% residual sugar. Green apple, musk and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate with high acidity, minerality, medium body and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Virgin Red Blend 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $13.00
A combination of 35% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Cabernet Franc, this wine is USDA-certified organic and sulfite-free. A fresh and easy drinking wine, it offers up berries, plum, floral and black cherry, with medium acidity, medium body and good length.

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Pinot Noir 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, $18.00
Made with certified organic grapes, this wine took many years to perfect since Anne is very particular about her Pinot Noir. The time and effort were worth it with its complex aromas of smoke, tart cherry, and an earthy undertone. It is medium bodied with bright acidity and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Gran Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Uco Valley, Argentina, $20.00
A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Malbec (both of which are certified organic), this wine presents notes of vanilla, oak, black fruit and a slight leaf character on the nose. With Medium+ body, good acidity, firm ripe tannins, and black and blue fruit, it is ripe yet dry, culminating in long length.

TASTING NOTES: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

A recent walk-around tasting event provided attendees with the opportunity to taste through a collection of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines as well as meet a few of the winery representatives.

Here are a few of my favorites (notes are limited):

Antico Colle Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot
Fresh, with decidedly herbal characteristics, firmer tannins and floral notes.

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2018, Tuscany, Italy
Sangiovese, Canaiolo and other authorized grapes
Meatier, with really nice depth and riper fruit.

Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy
70% Sangiovese and other red grape varieties
Floral, powerful, with darker fruit, less tannic than some of the other wines.

Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Tuscany, Italy
90% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino
With complex notes of smoke, oak, black fruit, it has a lighter structure and texture, with a distinct cherry and leafy palate.

La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
Sangiovese, Merlot
Rich and ripe with dark cherry aromas and flavors, firm tannins.

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2018, Tuscany, Italy
Sangiovese, Mammolo
Floral with lush, ripe red fruit, soft tannins and long length.

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
90-95% Sangiovese, 5-10% other grapes, including Canaiolo and Colorino
Cherry and plum, with dusty tannins, vibrant acidity, medium body and long length.

Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano S. Caterina 2019, Tuscany, Italy
100% Sangiovese
Intense nose and palate, with ripe red fruit and long length.

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggio Stella 2017, Tuscany, Italy
mostly Sangiovese
Lovely and soft, with cherries, berries and vanilla.


Picnic season returns… wines for spring and summer 2023

Spring has been a long time coming this year. While Mother Nature graced us with a beautiful glimpse of picture-perfect weather in early April, the cold, wet weeks that followed left much to be desired. We are now happy to see the sun and feel its warmth, beckoning us outside. In a word (or more precisely two), it’s Picnic Season!

That means a lot of things, but chief among them is what wines to enjoy al fresco this spring and summer. In that regard, I recently had the very pleasant opportunity to taste through a selection of wines from Spanish wine producer, Hammeken Cellars. With Sailé Ramirez at the helm as CEO, the company has launched six new brands and planted over 250,000 trees as part of their sustainability program.

In fact, during that spring preview weekend in April, my husband and I had a picnic date night in Fort Tryon Park, toting along two rosés from their collection: Radio Boka Rosé and Sedosa Rosé.

Outside was no longer an option for a while, so the Radio Boka Verdejo was enjoyed indoors at the dining table, but the Gotas de Mar Albarino was a welcome companion as I introduced my friend, Sharon, to the joys of fancy picnics when we met up in Prospect Park for lunch and a production of Molière’s Tartuffe.

In keeping with the theme of freshness and al fresco dining, I’m including tasting notes from a recent seminar with Domaine Bousquet, since several of its current releases are also perfect picnic pairings, particularly, their sparkling rose and LO CA Chardonnay.

TASTING NOTES

WHITES

Radio Boka Verdejo 2021, VDT Castilla, Spain, $12.00
Aromas of bitter almond, pear, and citrus on both the nose and palate, this complex wine offers up medium body, medium acidity and long length.

Gotas de Mar Albariño 2022, Rias Baixas, Spain, $25.00
Produced from 100% Albariño from 15-25 year old vines, this wine was aged for six months on its lees. Notes of citrus and riper tree fruit are joined by minerality and salinity, with medium body, good acidity and long length.

Domaine Bousquet LO CA Chardonnay 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina, $14.00
LO CA is a local calorie and low alcohol wine, which required numerous attempts to get it right due to ensure a wine that was stable and of the quality they desired. The resulting wine has 9% abv and 2% residual sugar. Green apple, musk and citrus greet the nose and persist on the palate with high acidity, minerality, medium body and long length.

ROSÉS

2021 Radio Boka Rosé, VDT Castilla, Spain, $12.00
Tasted alongside the Sedosa rosé, this wine was less ripe, with slightly higher acidity. It is redolent of fresh raspberries and citrus, with medium body and long length.

Sedosa Organic Rosé 2021, VDT Castilla, Spain, $20.00
Comprised of 100% Bobal from 15 year old vines, this wine is pale salmon in color with aromas of berries, and melon and a hint of floral. The dry palate provides ripe fresh berries, good acidity and long length.

Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose NV, Uco Valley, Argentina, $13.00
This sparkling wine is produced using the Charmat Method, bringing together 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. Deep salmon in color, with a persistent bead, it is fresh and lively with tart cherry notes, a lovely mousse and long length.



At Bodegas Montecillo, A Mix of the Modern and Classic

While the clouds kept the sun at bay, the view from the Ritz Carlton’s 50th floor was no less stunning. Lower Manhattan as well as Lady Liberty herself were visible just beyond the array of wine glasses as we waited for the tasting event to start.

Here, at Chef José Andrés’ latest NYC outpost, Nubeluz, a unique opportunity to taste the history of Rioja was proffered by Mercedes García Rupérez, Chief Winemaker for Bodegas Montecillo and Paco Fernandez, Area Manager for Bodegas Osborne.

Established in 1870 by the Navajas family and located in the heart of the Rioja region, Bodegas Montecillo is the third oldest winery in Rioja. It was the first winery in Fuenmayor and was named for the small mountain nearby (monte cillo literally translates as small mountain). In 1973, Bodegas Montecillo’s third generation winemaker, Jose Luis Navajas, had no descendants and looked to collaborate with Bodegas Osborne as a way of carrying on the winery’s legacy. Hence, Paco Fernandez’s presence at the event. Yet, despite the change in ownership, the winery continues to maintain its strong and proud heritage as it also seeks to maintain its relevance into the far future.

Now at Montecillo for almost 15 years, Mercedes previously spent 16 years at Osborne’s Malpica Estate and vineyards in Chile prior to her arrival in Rioja. When she was first brought on as winemaker, Bodegas Montecillo only specialized in classically styled Rioja. After ensuring the high quality of the existing wines, she turned her attention to expanding the winery’s repertoire to include more modern styles as well. Regardless of the style, like many premium producers, she generally exceeds the minimums in making her wines.

Of note was the beautiful pairing of food and wine, displaying the food friendly, versatile nature of the wines. Although Nubeluz doesn’t typically serve much in the way of food, we were treated to some of the highest quality Serrano ham and other delicious fare. .

In particular, the first Course featured Croquetas de Jamón, Pan Con Tomate, Tomato Goat Cheese Cone and Josés Taco (nori, caviar, jamon and gold leaf). The second Course was a choice between Grilled Seasonal Vegetables with Romesco and China’s Sweetest Tomato Salad. For the third course, I chose the Solomillo Jamon Confit Piquillos. Dessert was a selection of Chef Victor’s Sweet Cones: Smores, mont blanc (caramel milk cream), dulce de leche, and thai basil.

As the tasting underscored, there is a real and distinct history to the company and its wines. They can clearly withstand the test of time, given their excellent quality and aging potential. As a further example of their ageability, Mercedes and Rocio graciously shared one of the few remaining bottles of the Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial 1973 with us. It was also enlightening to be able to compare and contrast the classic and modern wines, finding something to enjoy about each of them. Moreover, it showed that the winery remains au current as it moves into its next chapter.

TASTING NOTES

Singladuras Albariño 2021, Rias Baixas, Spain, $20/bottle
Produced from 100% Albarino, this wine undergoes batonage to add depth and complexity to the wine and spends time in the bottle before release to soften the acidity. With aromas of citrus, pith, slight yeast, and minerality, it has bright acidity, medium body, and long length. It is extremely fresh, with a lovely salinity on the palate due to the influence of, and proximity to, the Atlantic Ocean.

Bodegas Montecillo Reserva 2014, Rioja, Spain, $20/bottle
A classic style Rioja, with an eye toward producing a complete and balanced wine, this brings together 92% Tempranillo and 8% Mazuelo, which are aged for 24 months in mixed oak barrels (65% French and 35% American). Notes of smoke, oak, strawberry/berries greet the nose. It is dry, with medium+ body, medium acidity, medium, grainy tannins, are joined by spice, vanilla, and marmalade fruit, culminating in
long length.

Bodegas Montecillo Gran Reserva 2010, Rioja, Spain, $40/bottle
Another classically-styled wine, Mercedes notes her aim in crafting the Gran Reserva is elegance. Hailing from a great vintage, this blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Graciano, is sourced from vines with an average age of 40 years. The wine is aged for 28 months in oak barrels (a combination of French and American) and then rests in bottle for at least 4 years before release. It offers a shy nose, with dark red fruit, dried spice and vanilla, which persist on the palate. Its ripe tannins are firmer than the Reserva 2014, with good acidity and very long length. It can definitely age further.

Bodegas Montecillo Edición Limitada 2016, Rioja, Spain, $25-27/bottle
Stepping out of the traditional mold, Mercedes’ intention with the Edicion Limitada is to produce a different and more modern wine with more fruit and less oak. Comprised of 70% Tempranillo and 30% Graciano, this grapes for this wine come from 40-year-old vines from two special, high altitude plots. After fermentation, it is aged for 25 months in oak and then aged in bottle for another two years. An intense nose of strawberry and blackberry with firm, ripe tannins, fresh acidity, medium+ body, a slight herbal note and long length. It was fruitier than the previous two wines with a softer palate.

Bodegas Montecillo 22 Barricas Gran Reserva 2015, Rioja, Spain, $50/bottle
Another modern style wine, the 22 Barricas is only made in great vintages such as 2010 and 2015. Mercedes first made this wine by hiding 22 barrels (thus, its name) from the winery owner to take a new approach. All of the grapes (a blend of 50% Tempranillo, 25% Graciano, 15% Garnacha and 10% Mazuelo) are hand harvested and the wine is aged in barrel for 32 months before resting in bottle for at least 38 months. A pronounced nose of vanilla and dark, lush fruit. This wine displays firm tannins – needs time to develop, intense fruit on the palate as well, and, overall, is beautiful and elegant, with long length.

Bodegas Montecillo Gran Reserva Selección Especial 2005 Rioja, Spain, $200/bottle
With only a very small quantity produced, this wine was made in honor of the winery’s 150th anniversary. The 70% Tempranillo, 20% Graciano and 10% Maturana Tinta were barrel aged for 62 months and rested in bottle for more than 9 years. It offers up aromas of dried flowers, dried herbs and dried red fruit, joined by flavors of coffee and spice on the beautifully complex palate. It is dry with a sweet attack, still firm, yet ripe, tannins, and long length.

Bodegas Montecillo Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial 1973, Rioja, Spain, N/A
Made from 100% Tempranillo sourced from vines with an average age of 50 years, this is the last vintage made by the founding Navajas family. Sweet nose of faded flowers, particularly dried rose, slight spice, faded fruit of dried raspberries, this is a beautifully elegant wine, with long length.